http://dallas.craigslist.org/car/710733234.html

Hopefuly you can get to the link above to see pics and info on this car.

The guy i bought it from said it was running a week or two prior to my interest in the car. he said he was running the engine obd1 w/ p28 ecu. i havent looked at the ecu to see for sure but i do know he lied about some things. the guy didn't do all the work to this car that was done, he paid others to do it.

Anyway, he said he was getting some grub one night and when he was leaving he said all the sudden it started bogging out on him and stalled. he push started it and made it home but he couldn't get it started after that. he thought that it had jump timing because the tensioner was a bit loose.

he took it to a shop to get the timing set. when the mechanic couldn't get it going he said it wasn't getting any spark. well the distributor (as well as the plugs and wires), had recently been changed. the distributor had lifetime warranty from orielys so he got another and had the mechanic put it on. he still couldn't get it to start. the mechanic had a little one light circut tester plugged into the far right injector wire harness. i figured he was testing the wires to the injectors individualy to see if each one was signaling. the mechanic said he thought it was a problem in the wiring. the tester was left plugged into that far side harness so i have it and when i get a chance im going to see what it does.

I was just tinkering around with the car last night and i decided to check the gap on the spark plugs. the guy i got if from had reciepts from a shop of the most recent oil change and as well the installation of the wires and plugs. from what i saw the plugs weren't even gapped. while adjusting the gaps i noticed that out of all the brand new plugs only one had any carbon buildup, the others were pretty much clean.

From the only 2 times i've tried to start the car, I've noticed that when it turns over it sounds healthy, and you can here it fire but only once or twice before it quits. i don't know if i explained that well but it doesn't start at all but it sounds like its going to every time.

These are the only observations i have at this time and i have to go to work soon, but if anybody has any suggestions or ideas as to the problem please reply.

Thanks in advance.

 

check the starter
battery
something inside is probably causing the spark plugs to burn
electricity probably plugged wrong when he did the swap
is all the plugs plugged in correctly
throttle plugs might be install wrong and not responding like mines?
just check the whole motor wiring if its nothing then its probably the motor itself not running
hopefully it helps

__________

I <3 OLDSKOOL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _EF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the starter
battery
something inside is probably causing the spark plugs to burn
electricity probably plugged wrong when he did the swap
is all the plugs plugged in correctly
throttle plugs might be install wrong and not responding like mines?
just check the whole motor wiring if its nothing then its probably the motor itself not running
hopefully it helps</TD></TR></TABLE>

the battery is good the starter is definately turning the flywheel
the car has been running for a while since the swap was done, i think that when the dizzy quit working the first time this guy(not having done the swap himself) bought a dizzy for a 97 ek which of course the engine is from and hes taken the dizzy back a coulple of times and told them "this remanufactured unit doesn't work" when i contacted him and asked him which dizzy he got for the car he said at first that he didn't know and when i explained to him that the dizzy for a 97 ek wouldn't work he decided it was a 91, like i said earlier i've caught this guy in a couple of lies already and it wouldn't surprise me if hes lying about this.

could any body tell me what this engine would act like when trying to start it up w/ a d16y7 dizzy rather than the correct dizzy for this swap?

 

this is a stupid one.

it it was running and they did a tune up before hand, changed out a bunch of stuff.

One thing that is obvious that might be it.

check your rotor button. Make sure the little screw is in the button.

screw backs out, drops in the dizzy and then just sits there causing same issues. Might run for a while ok then gives all the issues you are having.

 

it wont start with a y7 dizzy cause thats obd2 and your car is obd1. make sure you got the right dizzy. also since your at it get the right ecu. is the car getting spark and fuel?? i had a y7 in my old crx but it was all obd0 ran perfect.

 

ok i've done some researching and realize i misunderstood some stuff. im gonna check to see if it might be the main relay and/or grounds cause i don't think im getting spark or fuel, but on the other hand its sounds like it fires at least once when i try to start it.

the guy said they were running it obd1, i haven't checked the ecu myself to see but he said its a p28, is that right for obd1? and what kind of dizzy do i need for obd1? I know the one i have isn't 4 a6 because the order is wrong. the "c"is marking the number 1 cyl where the number 3 cyl 4 an a6.

i almost want to change everything to obd0 just to make it easier because i think the engine is non-vtec anyway. how can u tell on these particular engines? should it say vtec on the valve cover or are they unmarked on these? mine just says "Honda".

anyway like i said before im not sure what dizzy is on this motor but the whole thing is new (remanufactured) and i have receipts where it has been exchange from orielys because they thought that like 3 dizzys in a row were crap just because they were remanuf. im gonna take the reciept up to oriely's and have them run the part number so i can see which it is and since its brand new maybe i can trade it for the one i need(whether i go ob1 or 0 from this point) and pay the difference if any.

 

i also forgot to mention but after over looking the car when i first got it home i noticed that the new o2 sensor that i have a reciept for isn't even connected.

I know thats not a big deal it would just throw a code and get horrible mpg, but the real observation is that there is no plug in the harness for the o2 and the wire is cut down to the sensor. i' have already replaced this sensor with an a6 o2 sensor which looks exactly like the old sensor all the way to the one wire coming from it.

correct me if im wrong but for a obd1 setup the o2 sensor is suppose to have like 4 wires?

 

bump

 

Well i found out that the new remanufactured dizzy is for the a6, i misunderstood the diagram in chilton's. i checked out the ecu and its the stock pm6. the intake mani. has the same sealer as the headers and the water outlet from the head, which means the intake was swapped out (it only makes sense that it was swapped w/ the a6 intake) i don't know about the alternator but i believe its been said that the y7 alt. will plug up.

so i'm but to square one. I have a d16y7 swapped into a 91 Si obd0 setup, and im not getting spark and/or fuel. i haven't looked in the dizzy cause its new, i did check the wires to make sure it was in the correct order. i can hear the fuel pump prime so i'm almost positive its not the main relay, the relay doesn't make that click noise when you have a loose ground either. before i got it home it was in a shop and the buy i bought it from paid to have the timining adjusted.

At this point i have no idea what it might be. if anybody can help me out, i'd really appreciate it.