Well, thanks to a faulty distributor and my lazy butt taking 2 weeks to look at it, I am a bit delayed in fixing my egr problem. My distributor took a dump and I finally got bold enough to replace my JDM-stock-internal-coil with the old H23 external-coil and matching distributor. And my baby fired right up...(with those 2 hoses to the egr solenoid on the fender unplugged).



So after a few minutes of revving and warming up I started to test those 2 vacuum hoses to the solenoid. When I attach the upper solenoid hose, the idle drops slightly...which seems good cuz the idle is better at 1000 than 1700 rpm's. I proceed to connect the lower hose and the car dies immediately. I unplug the top hose also and the lower hose....restart it...it idles...and connect only the lower hose.....again, the car dies immediately. So:

We know that connecting the lower egr vacuum hose will cause the car to die instantly. Now does that guarantee that I need to replace the SOLENOID (on the fender) or the VALVE (by the fuel rail)???

Please forgive me if I called either of the egr parts the wrong name....I work nights and it is past my bedtime...



--TJ

 

I'm leaning towards replacing the solenoid before the valve. For ***** and giggles, apply vacuum to the EGR valve when you have the car warm'd up. If it kills the motor, I would lean towards the solenoid first. I think its cheaper to replace the solenoid than the valve, so yea.

 

Are you talking about that solenoid box on the passenger fender that connects to the oem airbox behind the fender?

I only noticed one vacuum hose running from around the intake manifold to that box, and I have it all un-hooked since I deleted the oem air intake system. Haven't noticed any problems yet.

 

not passenger fender....I am talking about the thingy on the driver's side right over the front of the tire..


I drove it to work last night and I am still getting a code, but forgot to check it when I got it home. Atleast with that lower hose disconnected, the car doesn't die...lol

--TJ

 

Drove it to work again last night. Doesn't die on me anymore (with the above-mentioned hose disconnected!!). So generally everyone agrees that I should replace the egr part on the driver's fenderwell???

If so, then which one should I get? Naturally I would assume to get the one that matched my motor H22A, but will the one from a USDM H23 work?? Or is that mismatch the reason my USDM H23 EGR part screwed up??

--TJ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_rb20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drove it to work again last night. Doesn't die on me anymore (with the above-mentioned hose disconnected!!). So generally everyone agrees that I should replace the egr part on the driver's fenderwell???

If so, then which one should I get? Naturally I would assume to get the one that matched my motor H22A, but will the one from a USDM H23 work?? Or is that mismatch the reason my USDM H23 EGR part screwed up??

--TJ</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, try changing the solenoid first and see from there. Do you know anybody w/ a prelude thats a H22 motor in it? It would be nice to try their working solenoid out to see if its the culprit before going out and buy one.

 

the "thingy" over the driver tire is a vacuum reservoir and the egr solenoid is in the egr valve located behind the cylinder head on the intake manifold on the H22A so the reservoir has nothing to do with your problem. take off the egr valve and clean it they usually get clogged up and the soleniod doesnt open

 

say whaaaaaa???? IIRC, I thought my FSM said otherwise about the part names, but I'll check into cleaning it....

--TJ

 

yea the vacuum reservior is behind the fender or r u talkin about the solenoid with the vacuum hoses that sits right in front the strut tower mount...i would say its just a faulty egr valve