ENGINE FELL OUT!!
Title pretty much sums it up...was driving my 97 ek with ls vtec swap and BAM!! driverside motor mount snapped and engine hit the floor...tweaking my tranny and car is stuck in second gear now.
thank god no fluids spilled...no crack or anything car still starts we actually shut it off when this happened it didnt die.
question...its stuck in gear and clutch pedal has NO PRESSURE AT ALL. its a hydro clutch but the pedal wont retract back from the firewall. im sure i can muscle it out of gear but dont wanna do anything wrong.
basically what do i do? i mean if i jack up the motor it will re-align the trans right? then possibly shift? but how do you explain the lack of clutch pressure? could my linkage be tweaked/broken?
the tow truck driver told me that the linkage has to be put back together. i dunno im lost on this i dont wanna have to buy a new clutch its a stage 2 so i dont wanna spend the money.
thanks in advance.
thank god no fluids spilled...no crack or anything car still starts we actually shut it off when this happened it didnt die.
question...its stuck in gear and clutch pedal has NO PRESSURE AT ALL. its a hydro clutch but the pedal wont retract back from the firewall. im sure i can muscle it out of gear but dont wanna do anything wrong.
basically what do i do? i mean if i jack up the motor it will re-align the trans right? then possibly shift? but how do you explain the lack of clutch pressure? could my linkage be tweaked/broken?
the tow truck driver told me that the linkage has to be put back together. i dunno im lost on this i dont wanna have to buy a new clutch its a stage 2 so i dont wanna spend the money.
thanks in advance.
You might have just bend the shifter linkage. I'm sure it got twisted since its bolted to the transmission and the chassis. I don't see how anything else could have messed up. Best thing do do would be to drop the transmission and inspect the exterior. Maybe something else twisted? Something came loose? But if the pedal doesn't want to pop back up, try bleeding the slave for the trans. Air could have gotten into the system somehow. Crazy things happen.
yea seriously....the trans mount is still in tact, underneath the trans is fine. the linkage is the only reasonable thing since it wont come out of gear. no trans fluid spilled out.
one other thing that is bothering me is that before we turned off the car...it was revving really high, kinda like putting the car in neutral and flooring it. also when i towed it to my driveway....its in second gear but rolls down the hill... shouldnt it stay put if its in gear?
one other thing that is bothering me is that before we turned off the car...it was revving really high, kinda like putting the car in neutral and flooring it. also when i towed it to my driveway....its in second gear but rolls down the hill... shouldnt it stay put if its in gear?
when it comes to the mounts im getting confused. i know the mounts are stock but im not sure if they are from the EK or if they could have come from the GSR? either way i have the rear mount. upper tranny. broken driverside BUT NO LOWER MOUNT that connects to the cross member. before this mount snapped the engine had a little lean to it leaning frontward and cocked towed the timing belt side...so from the driverseat looking forward it was leaning front left.
i know i need two mounts, BUT do i gotta go hasport/innovative? or can i replace the driverside with stock? from what car? and lower block/trans mount? im not sure where it connects but in ever motor swap pic lookin down at the engine, you can see a lone mount straight below the headers.
i know i need two mounts, BUT do i gotta go hasport/innovative? or can i replace the driverside with stock? from what car? and lower block/trans mount? im not sure where it connects but in ever motor swap pic lookin down at the engine, you can see a lone mount straight below the headers.
Motor was probably revving because the motor tipped, pulling the throttle. Not being able to shift, well, the linkages are pretty exact, so if the engine moves, the linkages wont be able to properly move the shift forks.
Just get hasport mounts. Thatll save them snapping again.
Just get hasport mounts. Thatll save them snapping again.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevew84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea seriously....the trans mount is still in tact, underneath the trans is fine. the linkage is the only reasonable thing since it wont come out of gear. no trans fluid spilled out.
one other thing that is bothering me is that before we turned off the car...it was revving really high, kinda like putting the car in neutral and flooring it. also when i towed it to my driveway....its in second gear but rolls down the hill... shouldnt it stay put if its in gear? </TD></TR></TABLE>
car can't be in gear if it can roll down a hill 'in second gear'
if it seriously is in gear, your trans is toast.
Inspect your linkage, replace/repair the mount, and try again.
one other thing that is bothering me is that before we turned off the car...it was revving really high, kinda like putting the car in neutral and flooring it. also when i towed it to my driveway....its in second gear but rolls down the hill... shouldnt it stay put if its in gear? </TD></TR></TABLE>
car can't be in gear if it can roll down a hill 'in second gear'
if it seriously is in gear, your trans is toast.
Inspect your linkage, replace/repair the mount, and try again.
well when you say "seriously in gear" the stick is in the 2nd gear position. but if the linkage came undone then yea it will move no matter what gear its in. but why wont it COME OUT of the 2nd gear position? it feels more like an air bubble that is making it not come out rather than something being lodged or jammed cuz there is some play with it, but im scared to shove it in neutral.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevew84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well when you say "seriously in gear" the stick is in the 2nd gear position. but if the linkage came undone then yea it will move no matter what gear its in. but why wont it COME OUT of the 2nd gear position? it feels more like an air bubble that is making it not come out rather than something being lodged or jammed cuz there is some play with it, but im scared to shove it in neutral.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the linkage isn't like 99% PERFECT, it will not want to go into gear and will be stuck in neutral.
its more than likely damaged forcing the shifter into the second gear spot and because its no longer lined up right causing the issue mentioned above
I'm going to have to assume you didn't do the engine swap on your car if your knowledge is this limited.
So at this point my recommendation is "Bring it to a shop before you make it worse or damage something"
if the linkage isn't like 99% PERFECT, it will not want to go into gear and will be stuck in neutral.
its more than likely damaged forcing the shifter into the second gear spot and because its no longer lined up right causing the issue mentioned above
I'm going to have to assume you didn't do the engine swap on your car if your knowledge is this limited.
So at this point my recommendation is "Bring it to a shop before you make it worse or damage something"
yes i admit i have limited knowledge on transmissions...but very familiar with my b18 and my d15 in my EF...im trying to learn more about trannys especially manuals. the car was in second gear when the mount snapped...coasted to the side, put down clutch, realized there was no pressure, tried to move stick, couldnt.
i dont know if that makes a difference but it was already in gear and stayed that way.
and your also right that i didnt do this swap myself. i have the knowledge to swap the motor but im leary to since im trying to pick up on trannys
i dont know if that makes a difference but it was already in gear and stayed that way.
and your also right that i didnt do this swap myself. i have the knowledge to swap the motor but im leary to since im trying to pick up on trannys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevew84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes i admit i have limited knowledge on transmissions...but very familiar with my b18 and my d15 in my EF...im trying to learn more about trannys especially manuals. the car was in second gear when the mount snapped...coasted to the side, put down clutch, realized there was no pressure, tried to move stick, couldnt.
i dont know if that makes a difference but it was already in gear and stayed that way.
and your also right that i didnt do this swap myself. i have the knowledge to swap the motor but im leary to since im trying to pick up on trannys</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is your crash course in transmissions and FWD Shift linkage:
the way the car changes gears is with the shifter, the motions of the shifter are essenailly transfer through the 'shift linkage'
the 'large' motion of you moving the shifter *even if you have a short shifter* is changed into a very VERY small motion with a fair amount of strength behind it going into the transmission. If this 'small' motion is not correct, or the linkage is bent causing the motion to be inaccurate, the transmission will not shift gears because the input from the linkage is fubared.
If you really wanna try to repair it, get the car up in the air AFTER the mount has been replaced, and inspect the linkage, see if its bent anywhere *which it more than likely is*
I am going to have to pray and assume you aren't trying to move the shifter around while that engine mount is broken/not there, because it will DEFIANTLY not be moving because of the angle of the input would be incorrect
Also, you mention that its an EF, This means you have custom shift linkage to operate with a B-series motor.
i dont know if that makes a difference but it was already in gear and stayed that way.
and your also right that i didnt do this swap myself. i have the knowledge to swap the motor but im leary to since im trying to pick up on trannys</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is your crash course in transmissions and FWD Shift linkage:
the way the car changes gears is with the shifter, the motions of the shifter are essenailly transfer through the 'shift linkage'
the 'large' motion of you moving the shifter *even if you have a short shifter* is changed into a very VERY small motion with a fair amount of strength behind it going into the transmission. If this 'small' motion is not correct, or the linkage is bent causing the motion to be inaccurate, the transmission will not shift gears because the input from the linkage is fubared.
If you really wanna try to repair it, get the car up in the air AFTER the mount has been replaced, and inspect the linkage, see if its bent anywhere *which it more than likely is*
I am going to have to pray and assume you aren't trying to move the shifter around while that engine mount is broken/not there, because it will DEFIANTLY not be moving because of the angle of the input would be incorrect
Also, you mention that its an EF, This means you have custom shift linkage to operate with a B-series motor.
thanks for the info....
today when i get home im going to jack up the engine where it is supposed to be and see if i can move the shifter, not gonna force anything just see if it can come out of gear.
and no its not an EF, i was just saying i know my b18 and my d15...
the car in question is a 97 EK hatch with b18c1 in it. hydro tranny stage 2 clutch.
today when i get home im going to jack up the engine where it is supposed to be and see if i can move the shifter, not gonna force anything just see if it can come out of gear.
and no its not an EF, i was just saying i know my b18 and my d15...
the car in question is a 97 EK hatch with b18c1 in it. hydro tranny stage 2 clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevew84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one other thing that is bothering me is that before we turned off the car...it was revving really high, kinda like putting the car in neutral and flooring it. also when i towed it to my driveway....its in second gear but rolls down the hill... shouldnt it stay put if its in gear? </TD></TR></TABLE>
like someone else mentioned...the throttle cable was probably being pulled on and the throttle was stuck open. and about the rolling, 1 or both of your axles probably popped out
like someone else mentioned...the throttle cable was probably being pulled on and the throttle was stuck open. and about the rolling, 1 or both of your axles probably popped out
thanks for mentioning that about the axles....i totally forgot cuz its not my main concern.
the driverside axle broke apart at the boot. THANKFULLY the half-shaft is still in tact and undamaged...and the wheel hub is ok also.
on a good note... i just replaced the now broken axle about 2 months ago and got a lifetime warranty on it. autozone will honor the warranty cuz i told them it came apart at the boot due to being faulty or whatever i just told them whatever i had to so i wouldnt have to spend another $70
the driverside axle broke apart at the boot. THANKFULLY the half-shaft is still in tact and undamaged...and the wheel hub is ok also.
on a good note... i just replaced the now broken axle about 2 months ago and got a lifetime warranty on it. autozone will honor the warranty cuz i told them it came apart at the boot due to being faulty or whatever i just told them whatever i had to so i wouldnt have to spend another $70
I've been seeing threads on here lately about people snapping their Hasports because they don't run the lower front torque mounts. I just run the front lower mounts with ES inserts and already the car vibrates because it stiffens it up.
But then again you did say your motor was kind of leaning so I would assume that the lean to the left added some stress onto the mount which in time the mount gave up.
Anyway, if you want you can run either Hasport or Innovative mounts and then run ES inserts for the front lower torque mounts. Your motor won't move after this.
But then again you did say your motor was kind of leaning so I would assume that the lean to the left added some stress onto the mount which in time the mount gave up.
Anyway, if you want you can run either Hasport or Innovative mounts and then run ES inserts for the front lower torque mounts. Your motor won't move after this.
I have old-school hasport trans and driver side mount, and poly filled torque mounts and rear mount.
Car is QUITE firm, and vibrates a fair amount, but [freak] it moves, no wheel hop at all as well as minimal/no wheelspin when shifting.
Car is QUITE firm, and vibrates a fair amount, but [freak] it moves, no wheel hop at all as well as minimal/no wheelspin when shifting.
alright wanna thank everyone for helping me out with the trans part of my problem...i know what to look for now.
as far as the mounts/brackets... my driverside MOUNT is fine (rubber insert still in tact) what broke off was the part that connects onto the motor itself. The "bracket" that has the two bolts facing upward that you have to slip the mount onto. one of those bolts broke off causing the engine to fall.
the mount only had one of the two bolts going thru it. obviously something wasnt swapped right. i was told to get the 99-00 SI driverside bracket but is that the piece that bolts onto the motor?
as far as the mounts/brackets... my driverside MOUNT is fine (rubber insert still in tact) what broke off was the part that connects onto the motor itself. The "bracket" that has the two bolts facing upward that you have to slip the mount onto. one of those bolts broke off causing the engine to fall.
the mount only had one of the two bolts going thru it. obviously something wasnt swapped right. i was told to get the 99-00 SI driverside bracket but is that the piece that bolts onto the motor?
EDIT: i think i got the mounts problem solved.... since the actual mount on the chassis is still good. i need to block bracket from a 99-00 SI part number 11910-P30-000 runs for about $70 at the local honda dealer.
as for the lower trans mount....that bolts to the front cross member correct?
as for the lower trans mount....that bolts to the front cross member correct?
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From: Teh Land of Corn and Pollution
Your clutch more than likely has no pressure anymore because you probably bent the clutch line when the trans dropped, I guarantee it [freak]ed up that line if the trans moved at all.
Plan on replacing it.
Plan on replacing it.
I had to install one of my front torque mount brackets a while back (shop i had the swap done at neglected to install it then denied it). the bracket was cheap but man does honda rape you on the bolts and washers.
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From: Teh Land of Corn and Pollution
It will be a small rubber hose that comes off the slave cylinder that turns into a little metal line that curves around the back of your motor over top the trans and connects to the front of the trans, check it for bends/crimps.
The two torque mounts connect from one on the tranny side held in by 3 bolts to the cross member, and the other one connects from AC bracket to the driver side cross member. I can't believe your driving on stock mounts w/o torque mounts, this is why the motor fell when the mount blew, and probably the reason the mount blew to begin with because the stock mounts aren't designed to handle the added stress.
The two torque mounts connect from one on the tranny side held in by 3 bolts to the cross member, and the other one connects from AC bracket to the driver side cross member. I can't believe your driving on stock mounts w/o torque mounts, this is why the motor fell when the mount blew, and probably the reason the mount blew to begin with because the stock mounts aren't designed to handle the added stress.



