ITR (B-series) or K swap
Ive managed to save up 5,500 recently and am torn between purchasing an ITR swap and stay b-series or save up a lil more and go K...this swap is going in a 2000 si...what do you guys think...which is better going k or buying a b-series r...if I went K it would probably be the K20z out of 05-06 rsx-s...
The average k-swap in a eg now is around 7-8k, i dont know how much it would be in a em1. If you have the money go for a k. For the money you'll spend on a itr swap why not boost your b16 though. thats my $.02.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blklabel44 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k20 for sure
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enuf said
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enuf said
i've long thought about just boosting the b16 but the thing is that I really want something a lil different...there are a couple si's here in my town and they are either boosted or running nitrous...I know that the proper tune on a good turbo build can be reliable...but a k swap would be reliable right from the get go...ive also heard that k swaps respond pretty well to bolt-ons and who knows maybe a turbo for the k down the road...long story short is my b16 has pretty much every bolt on...I just really want a bigger platform for future mods...1.8 or 2.0 would solve that problem
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5gs isnt gonna be enough for a K swap...depending on what K motor u wanna get its gonna cost u about 3-5 just for the K motor and ur gonna need everything else just to swap it in...motor mounts alone are 500-600, PnP harness is about 300 n so on...the K series is still new and there are still new parts being made for it so its expensive..K20a.org is ur new friend
i am NOT hating on the k but is it really worth it?
why dont you swap a gsr and spend the extra 4k building it..?
or even stick with the b16 and spend all your money boosting + building..?
the only good thing a k is for is saying 'i have a k'
why dont you swap a gsr and spend the extra 4k building it..?
or even stick with the b16 and spend all your money boosting + building..?
the only good thing a k is for is saying 'i have a k'
yeah, that and making 350whp n/a, making reliable 400whp on stock internals boosted, having the potential to make power power than any b series ever could.
however, unless you have $10k..b series turbo. 5500 will get you a motor, boosted and tuned.
however, unless you have $10k..b series turbo. 5500 will get you a motor, boosted and tuned.
Im old school, B-series FTW. i will admit K's are cool, but to me they just look funny in the OG civic engine bays. fast they are, more torque they have, but eh, im oldschool and would stick with the boosted ITR motor!
i just picked up a CTR motor and an ITR tranny for 2900 shipped....i'll take my cheaper motor, boost n tune it and run with the best of them im sure....whatever you end up doing, take your time and do it right the first time!
good luck!
i just picked up a CTR motor and an ITR tranny for 2900 shipped....i'll take my cheaper motor, boost n tune it and run with the best of them im sure....whatever you end up doing, take your time and do it right the first time!
good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, that and making 350whp n/a, making reliable 400whp on stock internals boosted, having the potential to make power power than any b series ever could.
however, unless you have $10k..b series turbo. 5500 will get you a motor, boosted and tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i really dont follow k's but
HOLY S.HIT 350whp off a 200hp k motor n/a?
from what i know about b's its hard to get 250 out of a 200hp motor n/a and run 11's. and HOLY F.UCK 400whp turbo'ed stock internal k's!?
someone set me in my place i have no clue what's going on
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you boost the highest compression b series there is? cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sh.it starter ^
however, unless you have $10k..b series turbo. 5500 will get you a motor, boosted and tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i really dont follow k's but
HOLY S.HIT 350whp off a 200hp k motor n/a?
from what i know about b's its hard to get 250 out of a 200hp motor n/a and run 11's. and HOLY F.UCK 400whp turbo'ed stock internal k's!?
someone set me in my place i have no clue what's going on
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you boost the highest compression b series there is? cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sh.it starter ^
Get the b18c5, most of your bolt ons will work on that motor also and it has a
higher redline than the K. But if you plan on boosting just boost your b16.
I have a hand me down type r motor that has gone through 2 friends and
still runs very strong and I'm hitting it with a 75shot dry for over a year,
very good motors
higher redline than the K. But if you plan on boosting just boost your b16.
I have a hand me down type r motor that has gone through 2 friends and
still runs very strong and I'm hitting it with a 75shot dry for over a year,
very good motors
Both swaps are good. You just need to figure out how much you want to spend.
B swap:
ITR engine only (if you want to re use your B16 trans): $2750 shipped to your door. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
ITR complete swap: $4000 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Re use your engine mounts: Free.
Re use your exhaust: Free.
Re use your harness: Free.
Re use your radiator: Free.
Re use your axles (or use the ones included with the complete swap: Free.
Re use your AC compressor/condensor/lines: Free.
If the ECU is an OBD2A ECU you have to buy an OBD2B to OBD2A adapter: $40 shipped on Ebay.
IF you want to go OBD1, ECU and conversion harness: $150 or so on Ebay.
TCI: Engine only: worst case, 3000. Complete swap: worst case, $4500 and that would include you putting a new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, accessory belts, and all new coolant hoses on the car.
K series (I really don't know crap about them because they are still way too expensive to swap, IMHO:
K20Z swap: $5000
Mounts: $550
Header: $400
Axles: Around $300
Harness: $300
Shifter box and cables (that probably won't come with swap): $150-200
K Pro or have anti theft disabled so it will start: $300 and up.
Fab exhaust to fit: $50
Fab AC to function: $250-400
Fab PS to function if you want it: $100-200?
Radiator: $100
All new coolant hoses since none will really work anymore: $100
Misc crap needed for swap: $100+
I'm sure I'm forgetting a good amount on the K swap since I am not even thinking of keeping up on it due to price. BEST CASE: $7700
Both swaps price is if you do it all yourself. Keep in mind the ITR should take you about one day start to finish. K swap could take 1-2 days if you are an absolute badass and it could take up to a month if you just do it when you can. You will probably have bugs to work out if it's your first swap.
Other drawback on a K swap is the holes you make and the parts you have to cut to make it go (shifter box, shifter cables, trim for clearance, etc)
As I've said before: Stock for stock power: K series (due to torque) dollar for dollar: B series.
B swap:
ITR engine only (if you want to re use your B16 trans): $2750 shipped to your door. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
ITR complete swap: $4000 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Re use your engine mounts: Free.
Re use your exhaust: Free.
Re use your harness: Free.
Re use your radiator: Free.
Re use your axles (or use the ones included with the complete swap: Free.
Re use your AC compressor/condensor/lines: Free.
If the ECU is an OBD2A ECU you have to buy an OBD2B to OBD2A adapter: $40 shipped on Ebay.
IF you want to go OBD1, ECU and conversion harness: $150 or so on Ebay.
TCI: Engine only: worst case, 3000. Complete swap: worst case, $4500 and that would include you putting a new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, accessory belts, and all new coolant hoses on the car.
K series (I really don't know crap about them because they are still way too expensive to swap, IMHO:
K20Z swap: $5000
Mounts: $550
Header: $400
Axles: Around $300
Harness: $300
Shifter box and cables (that probably won't come with swap): $150-200
K Pro or have anti theft disabled so it will start: $300 and up.
Fab exhaust to fit: $50
Fab AC to function: $250-400
Fab PS to function if you want it: $100-200?
Radiator: $100
All new coolant hoses since none will really work anymore: $100
Misc crap needed for swap: $100+
I'm sure I'm forgetting a good amount on the K swap since I am not even thinking of keeping up on it due to price. BEST CASE: $7700
Both swaps price is if you do it all yourself. Keep in mind the ITR should take you about one day start to finish. K swap could take 1-2 days if you are an absolute badass and it could take up to a month if you just do it when you can. You will probably have bugs to work out if it's your first swap.
Other drawback on a K swap is the holes you make and the parts you have to cut to make it go (shifter box, shifter cables, trim for clearance, etc)
As I've said before: Stock for stock power: K series (due to torque) dollar for dollar: B series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rd91sib18c5r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the b18c5, most of your bolt ons will work on that motor also and it has a
higher redline than the K.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow thats got to be the funniest **** ive ever read.
higher redline than the K.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow thats got to be the funniest **** ive ever read.
thanks for the advice guys...but I think i might be getting the itr motor know...seeing how it took me a year to save up the 5500, i dont think i can wait much longer...i wanna go fast now...lol



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