I have been asked a million times to help people with turbo testing and I always ask for the same pressures so i can see how the turbo is working. Most of the times people have no clue what the back pressure is, So I put together a kit to help everyone be able to check back pressure.

Knowing your back pressure is a must for dialing in your turbo. Back pressure affects spool and top end power so adjusting it is vital to getting you the power band and over all power you are looking for.

The kit we made keeps you from having to drill your header and can be removed after testing.

Here are a few pics of the flanges.

The kit comes with a 1/4 thick flange 2 gaskets and 1 pressure transducer good for up to 100 psi. Also all testing hardware like copper line and fittings.

 

This makes things easy! I need one..

 

Good idea Dan. Also if you dont want to kill your pressure sensor, loop a few inches of brake line between the manifold and the sensor to 'isolate' the sensor from the egt's.

 

Awsome..

 

on a divided housing would you need to have two pressure sensor?

 

Seems simple enough but it seems like it will be a headache to get it to work, i mean come on. If you are doing back pressure testing, taping a housing or manifold isnt all that big of a deal. Especially seeing as how downpipes will have to get redone, intercooler pipes among othre things

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boner_Ben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good idea Dan. Also if you dont want to kill your pressure sensor, loop a few inches of brake line between the manifold and the sensor to 'isolate' the sensor from the egt's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

We supply copper line with the kits.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seems simple enough but it seems like it will be a headache to get it to work, i mean come on. If you are doing back pressure testing, taping a housing or manifold isnt all that big of a deal. Especially seeing as how downpipes will have to get redone, intercooler pipes among othre things</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is the reason we made it 1/4 inch thick. Most down pipes and intercooler pipes have 1/4 inch of flexability. We tried 1/2 inch but it was a bit too much.

Alot of people don't want to drill a hole in a $1000.00+ manifold.

On some cars there is no room to fit a drill in the engine bay to drill and tap a hole without removing the exhaust manifold.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cluelessmale &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on a divided housing would you need to have two pressure sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are running a true divided set up it would be better to check both sides, which can be done with our divided version of the flange.

 

I can see this being very beneficial for tuners/shops. No need to run a sensor all the time on a street/strip car, but it would help when dialing it in.

 

For those of you using AEM you can use the MAF sensor input and convert the voltage to PSI. (learned that from Alpha)

 

this might be dumb but how would u adjust the back pressure?

 

adjust back pressure by swaping exhuast housings.


i know that would never work on my setup, although its a good idea, my intercoolerpiping is all v bands

 

^^beat me to it. Bigger or smaller housing. What are most high HP cars running as far as back pressure goes??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this might be dumb but how would u adjust the back pressure? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can adjust back pressure by changing the turbine wheel or changing the a/r.

The a/r is for minor changes and the turbine wheel change is for making a larger change.

 

well your limited to going so big in some classes such as TS. & isnt the idea to get the biggest turbo possible to get the most volume at a lower boost . so if u need less back pressure arnt you stuck with what u got ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For those of you using AEM you can use the MAF sensor input and convert the voltage to PSI. (learned that from Alpha)</TD></TR></TABLE>

What you talking bout Bama

Looks great Dan! Could have used this last week, lol. I'm going to talk a shop I work with that does a bit of backpressure testing into buying a couple of these. We all know backpressure is overrated though Who cares if you're 32lbs in and 68lbs ex, lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well your limited to going so big in some classes such as TS. & isnt the idea to get the biggest turbo possible to get the most volume at a lower boost . so if u need less back pressure arnt you stuck with what u got ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont want to go to low on turbine pressure.

If you are limited on turbine wheel size and you have the largest a/r you can find another good way to lower back pressure is to clip the turbine wheel.

 

so where does the proper pressure normally fall . same in as out or what?

or should i say efficient

by cliping u mean make it smaller

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so where does the proper pressure normally fall . same in as out or what?

or should i say efficient

by clipping u mean make it smaller</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is not really a proper pressure. There is more of a operating range. Kinda like your air fuel ratio. Some guy like it rich some like it lean the same goes for turbine pressure. Some turbo shops have figured out how to make more power with certain pressure.

Clipping is a way to open the windows up in the turbine wheel to where it can flow more.

 

makes since. always good to learn new facts.
so basically u can just get a little bigger back housing & u can lower your ex pressure & keep the same wheel size

i wish i tried this pressure technique on my old setup.

i had a pt67/76bb ( well still have but going bigger) & when i tried going over 30 psi i was actually loosing power. maybe because of the ex pressure was getting way higher then the intake. well it really didn't loose power but it fell off sooner not allowing it to climb as high. made about 650 on our mustang dyno so we were happy still but.
i think i went 35psi & it fell off almost 1000rpm sooner. their were other factors suck as skunk 2pro mani & 68mmTB 3 inch exhaust. but neither the rest this does open some light into my thinking. so this next build should deff hold some serious ### or blow up

thank alot for the info deff going experiment with this




Modified by ALL IMPORT at 8:37 PM 6/17/2008

 

I'm not going to ask any questions, jus send me one!

Fernando @ CFT

 

go to bed its midnight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to bed its midnight </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL

 

if any body needs help logging psi in the aem maths functions pm me ill give you the the formulas the aem ones suck .one thing is you have to do a dry run with a steady source of compressed air and make all the sensors read the same mine are about .5 psi apart i use the auto meter o-100 psi sensors and they work fine . if dan gives me an ok ill post some logs from last friday if i can get the dam vista on my laptop to work right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if any body needs help logging psi in the aem maths functions pm me ill give you the the formulas the aem ones suck .one thing is you have to do a dry run with a steady source of compressed air and make all the sensors read the same mine are about .5 psi apart i use the auto meter o-100 psi sensors and they work fine . if dan gives me an ok ill post some logs from last friday if i can get the dam vista on my laptop to work right </TD></TR></TABLE>

So did you dyno or go to VMP? How'd it do?

 

vmp there from 5 till 11 made 3 passes smoked alot of cigs that place is so slow .made a on the gate run to make shure the tranny shifted then a real good 330 pass 3rd/4rth were still on the gate tried to pick up the 60ty a little and bogged bad on the third pass 11.2 at 151 2.3 somthing 60ty ill be at the 1/8 mile fri and sat working on my short times