Sohc ZC help...idle, cels, and much much more!
Alright. So if anyone was following my last thread i had the DOHC that was smoking. I ditched that and opted for a SOHC non vtec ZC. I got it installed, rewired the distributer got it started up and it doesnt smoke and everything is good.
Basic information
Running a 88-89 PG7 ECU
Has new sparkplugs
Has new o2 sensor
has new fuel filter
Ran sea foam though it
New Battery (for what its worth)
But not really.
The idle sucks. I had to adjust it up just to keep it from dieing at stop lights. It is set at about 1100 rpm and the air adjustment screw is probably at a turn and a half. i need to double check. Before I adjusted it it would be at about 1000 then die down to 300 then go back up then stall.
It runs fine when it feels like it. But when it doesn't it sucks.
When i do drive it the check engine light will come on anytime between after a minute of driving or even after 20 minutes. I checked the codes and its throwing 4 or 5.
IT blinks once then pauses then once again. Its not a code 2 but it seems like 2 code ones
then i get a code 4 a code 8 and a code 14
Code 1 is oxygen sensor which has been replaced.
i have no idea where to go with the following
CODE-4-CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
CODE-8-TDC POSITION
CODE-14-ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL
Also when I'm driving it and i step on the gas it will cut out. It seems like its not getting enough gas then it finally kicks in
another thing it does is that sometimes it won't rev past 3500-4000 rpm. When i try to make it go past that it cuts out the same way it does when i floor it.
I don't know if thats due to lack of fuel pressure or what.
the last thing about this engine is that it is hard to start. Some times it will just crank and sometimes it will crank then get stuck then crank then get stuck and then finally start. I tried a new starter but still had the same problem.
I know this is a lot but I figure someone on HT knows at least one of my problems and could help me out.
I know that I should probably switch to the PM6 (EF Si) ecu since sohc zc non vtec is basically the same thing as the d16a6 but I also have read that people use the PG7 with no problems.
I can't really think of any more information to put out there to fix my problem but if you need to know something just ask.
Thank HT
Basic information
Running a 88-89 PG7 ECU
Has new sparkplugs
Has new o2 sensor
has new fuel filter
Ran sea foam though it
New Battery (for what its worth)
But not really.
The idle sucks. I had to adjust it up just to keep it from dieing at stop lights. It is set at about 1100 rpm and the air adjustment screw is probably at a turn and a half. i need to double check. Before I adjusted it it would be at about 1000 then die down to 300 then go back up then stall.
It runs fine when it feels like it. But when it doesn't it sucks.
When i do drive it the check engine light will come on anytime between after a minute of driving or even after 20 minutes. I checked the codes and its throwing 4 or 5.
IT blinks once then pauses then once again. Its not a code 2 but it seems like 2 code ones
then i get a code 4 a code 8 and a code 14
Code 1 is oxygen sensor which has been replaced.
i have no idea where to go with the following
CODE-4-CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
CODE-8-TDC POSITION
CODE-14-ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL
Also when I'm driving it and i step on the gas it will cut out. It seems like its not getting enough gas then it finally kicks in
another thing it does is that sometimes it won't rev past 3500-4000 rpm. When i try to make it go past that it cuts out the same way it does when i floor it.
I don't know if thats due to lack of fuel pressure or what.
the last thing about this engine is that it is hard to start. Some times it will just crank and sometimes it will crank then get stuck then crank then get stuck and then finally start. I tried a new starter but still had the same problem.
I know this is a lot but I figure someone on HT knows at least one of my problems and could help me out.
I know that I should probably switch to the PM6 (EF Si) ecu since sohc zc non vtec is basically the same thing as the d16a6 but I also have read that people use the PG7 with no problems.
I can't really think of any more information to put out there to fix my problem but if you need to know something just ask.
Thank HT
Codes 4 and 8 are your distributor. Double check your wiring. If its all good, and youve checked it 100 times, go buy another distributor.
Code 14 is your IACV, attached to the back of the throttlebody, with 2 coolant hoses coming out of it. Take it off and spray it clean with brake cleaner.
Fixing these 3 codes should improve your idle.
Code 14 is your IACV, attached to the back of the throttlebody, with 2 coolant hoses coming out of it. Take it off and spray it clean with brake cleaner.
Fixing these 3 codes should improve your idle.
try a PM6 ecu. the pg7 you have may not even be the right one. and its not a better ecu anyway.
also sounds like you need a new distributor. but im not 100% sure, just something worth checking.
also sounds like you need a new distributor. but im not 100% sure, just something worth checking.
Ok. so im going to recheck all my wiring on the distributor. i may have mixed up the two white wires that go in as well as the ones i had to ad for the TDC sensor when i did multi-port. The Dohc zc ecu doesnt work with the Sohc zc engine. cause i have one siting in my back yard.
I like the SOHC its nice and easy and I can sleep better at night knowing that if a part breaks I don't have to search everywhere to find it unlike the DOHC zc
Alright so i just checked my distributor wiring and it was all off. I checked it according to this chart

and traced everything back to the ecu where my crank sensor wires were backwards and my CPS sensors were backwards. So fixed that and now im getting a code 9 which is CODE-9-NO.1 CYLINDER POSITION brings me to timing?
Im gunna clean my IACV and then check my timing. Thanks for the help so far. The idle seems to be a little smoother already.
Alright so i just checked my distributor wiring and it was all off. I checked it according to this chart
and traced everything back to the ecu where my crank sensor wires were backwards and my CPS sensors were backwards. So fixed that and now im getting a code 9 which is CODE-9-NO.1 CYLINDER POSITION brings me to timing?
Im gunna clean my IACV and then check my timing. Thanks for the help so far. The idle seems to be a little smoother already.
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Which codes is it throwing currently?
Here's a great link for troubleshooting codes. Scroll about halfway down and choose whichever codes that you need to troubleshoot and follow the tree.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=3
Here's a great link for troubleshooting codes. Scroll about halfway down and choose whichever codes that you need to troubleshoot and follow the tree.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=3
well ive been outside all day trying to get this thing going since i dind't go to work today.
I found a guy who wants to trade my PG7 for a PM6 so i am gunna go get that and see where that takes me.
update from there.
thanks again.
I found a guy who wants to trade my PG7 for a PM6 so i am gunna go get that and see where that takes me.
update from there.
thanks again.
its drivable. I'm gunna try it out when i get there and if it works ill take it and if it doesnt i will have to have mine back in order to get home.
see how it works
see how it works
Alright. So i got the PM6 ECU in and it didn't make a difference but im sure it will run a bit smoother with that
My dad and I checked the timing and its dead on the belt but when we used the timing light the red marks where about 90 degrees off so we were a little stumped. So I started looking back to my distributor wiring and low and behold I found 2 crossed wires. I fixed them and It starts up so nicely now. No hesitation. And the Idle is PERFECT!
So I re-adjusted the Air adjustment screw on the throttle body to a turn and a half. Does anyone know the best place to put that or any way to adjust it so its right where it should be?
So i took it for a drive and it drives smoothly but hesitates on the the throttle. If I suddenly give it a lot of gas it cuts out and then will slowly accelerate. The throttle seems to hesitate as well before it reaches 2K rpm.
Other than that its great. But now I have some codes to take care of.
I am gunna go through the diagnostic trees when i get a chance but if anyone has any ideas on what a quick fix is please post.
We checked the timing with the timing light and I still can't get the red middle mark to line up with my plastic timing belt cover. the best we can get is about in between the far off mark and and the grouping of 3 marks.
Like i said PM6 ECU
CODE-1-OXYGEN SENSOR
CODE-4-CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
CODE-7-THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
CODE-9-NO.1 CYLINDER POSITION
CODE-10-INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR
CODE-14-ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL
One step closer!
My dad and I checked the timing and its dead on the belt but when we used the timing light the red marks where about 90 degrees off so we were a little stumped. So I started looking back to my distributor wiring and low and behold I found 2 crossed wires. I fixed them and It starts up so nicely now. No hesitation. And the Idle is PERFECT!
So I re-adjusted the Air adjustment screw on the throttle body to a turn and a half. Does anyone know the best place to put that or any way to adjust it so its right where it should be?
So i took it for a drive and it drives smoothly but hesitates on the the throttle. If I suddenly give it a lot of gas it cuts out and then will slowly accelerate. The throttle seems to hesitate as well before it reaches 2K rpm.
Other than that its great. But now I have some codes to take care of.
I am gunna go through the diagnostic trees when i get a chance but if anyone has any ideas on what a quick fix is please post.
We checked the timing with the timing light and I still can't get the red middle mark to line up with my plastic timing belt cover. the best we can get is about in between the far off mark and and the grouping of 3 marks.
Like i said PM6 ECU
CODE-1-OXYGEN SENSOR
CODE-4-CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
CODE-7-THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
CODE-9-NO.1 CYLINDER POSITION
CODE-10-INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR
CODE-14-ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL
One step closer!
wow that's a whole lot of codes there. i used to have code 4,7,9,10,16 but the Tps sensor wont go away after i replaced it with a new tps. right now that's the only code i have. try clearing the codes and see if they come back. and also check the wiring sometimes its just some cables that are wrong. Post some pics of the motor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try a PM6 ecu. the pg7 you have may not even be the right one. and its not a better ecu anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>
pg7 runs it rich to be honest,your better off going to the pm6!cause that all the sohc zc is is a d16a6 si motor.if u want a better runing ecu there nuutin better then a pm6 with pm7 maps.was the car dual point at one time?
pg7 runs it rich to be honest,your better off going to the pm6!cause that all the sohc zc is is a d16a6 si motor.if u want a better runing ecu there nuutin better then a pm6 with pm7 maps.was the car dual point at one time?
car was dpfi before i started this whole swap mess
i tried resetting the ECU but the codes came right back after about 30 seconds of idling.
I like the way the PM6 runs and especially cause I can get it chipped for when i start my turbo project.
I still need to go through the Diagnostic charts. havn't really had time.. other wise its running great. I love it.
pics of the engine a little later. its too hot to go out side right now.
i tried resetting the ECU but the codes came right back after about 30 seconds of idling.
I like the way the PM6 runs and especially cause I can get it chipped for when i start my turbo project.
I still need to go through the Diagnostic charts. havn't really had time.. other wise its running great. I love it.
pics of the engine a little later. its too hot to go out side right now.
Did you make sure to switch the tps wires around? When doing a mpfi you need to switch them around or else the car is going to think its at wot at idle and idle at wot. This could be causing the slow hesitation to rev up.
I think i did...but I checked it and I coudn't remember if i did or not...
anyone know what the order should be or have a ecu pin number for the 3 wires?
anyone know what the order should be or have a ecu pin number for the 3 wires?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bizarre »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you make sure to switch the tps wires around? When doing a mpfi you need to switch them around or else the car is going to think its at wot at idle and idle at wot. This could be causing the slow hesitation to rev up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
makes sure all your wiring is right at the dizzy.i didnt swtich my wires around on the TPS and it ran fine.like i check check the dizzy wiring and make sure the dizzy it self is still good.
makes sure all your wiring is right at the dizzy.i didnt swtich my wires around on the TPS and it ran fine.like i check check the dizzy wiring and make sure the dizzy it self is still good.
u might need just to change out the enitre tps and then revolt it.u can fine cheap one from inlinefour.comyour code 9 makes sure your cam timing is right,if the exh. cam is off even a tooth it will throw a code 9.
Well..its sohc zc. I swapped cause my DOHC had too many problems.
we checked the timing belt and its gravy. What do you mean by re-volting the tps sensor. i have the one off my DOHC zc which never had any problems...would that work?
we checked the timing belt and its gravy. What do you mean by re-volting the tps sensor. i have the one off my DOHC zc which never had any problems...would that work?



