Can the FITV be completely removed and bypassed?

Is this a good or completely bad idea? What's the down side?

I'm just trying to clean up extraneous hoses and components. This is NOT a daily driver, I can live with a few small issues that do not ultimately effect performance.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2323698

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2153910

 

i don't think those threads are what he's looking for...
i believe it's possible and i've considered doing this mod as well. but i can't tell you for sure as i haven't done it yet. surely someone has experience?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zrickety &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't think those threads are what he's looking for...
i believe it's possible and i've considered doing this mod as well. but i can't tell you for sure as i haven't done it yet. surely someone has experience?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct. I'm NOT looking to repair it. I did the search, that's all that came up was repair and diagnoses.

I'm wondering if it's possible to remove it? Why pump hot water around a place where cool air yields better performance.

Must be some down sides to removing it.

 

i know of a few people that just take off the heater hose going to the tb. i know that there might be a problem with icing, but i think thats only high humidity. and cold weather.

 

it's been done on my car no problems but i am out here in hawaii hope that helps

 

In montana i wouldnt do it at all, unless you only drive the car in the summer. The coolant flows through there to help with cold starts and maintaining a consistent idle in cold weather.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bobjohnson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In montana i wouldnt do it at all, unless you only drive the car in the summer. The coolant flows through there to help with cold starts and maintaining a consistent idle in cold weather.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true. I run without the FITV and even in 50 degree weather the car will start up rough...just need to give it time to warm up and the idle smoothens out. Here's a pic with it eliminated (along with the heater lines as well).

 

Not to thread jack but that engine bay just made me blow my load

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2tegsown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to thread jack but that engine bay just made me blow my load </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you. Clean and simple since it spends 90% of its time on track. A shout out as usual to Ryan @ Rywire (my roommate) since he helped make that engine bay what it is...mils-spec harness and all!

And to stay on point, removing the FITV really cleans things up.

 

sorry from the picture i can't see the FITV removed. can you post a close up? also what did you use a block of plate?

 

I have both my FITV and IACV blocked off

 

cold weather starts arent that bad..... i live in ak.. i recently plugged my iacv hole and my car actually idles.. its weird though cause now the air fuel screw doesnt effect much so you must set idle with throttle cable.. well i have to anyways.. i wish i knew how to post my engine bay on here id have ya bustin another nut.. although johnsons is still a bit cleaner...

 

I also have NO fitv, it needs a little coaxing on cold days, but it did anyway, so I ditched it when I did the S2 manifold......Im bout to just throw away the eacv as well......DAMMIT I NEED A TUCK!

 

Here's a better pic...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bobjohnson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In montana i wouldnt do it at all, unless you only drive the car in the summer. The coolant flows through there to help with cold starts and maintaining a consistent idle in cold weather.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just a screw around and track car. Never sees cold weather. This car irritates my V8 buddies... a LOT... and I like it that way.

How long does it take for the rough idle (if you have it) for it to go away? 1-2 minutes?

If possible, Define "coaxing on cold days".


Modified by vectorsolid at 3:37 PM 6/17/2008

 

 

very nice. okay so i went out and took my throttle body, and make a cardboard gasket and sandwiched it in the middle of the FITV. Works great. I will be doing some testing on make a metal block off plate and rubber gasket. should work good. but for now the cardboard gasket works nicely.

 

So...for you guys who have removed your AICV and/or your FITV, you got them for sale? If so, I'm interested. Or perhaps someone can point me towards are low cost place to get them? Thanks.

 

I ask for the valves cause of the problems I'm having. Couple weeks ago my cold idle jumped up to about 2000rpm. Then a little later jumped up to 2800rpm. Now, when it's warmed up, in jumps up and down between 1200 and 2100rpm. Pretty annoying and embarrasing at a stop light, especially when there is a cop next to you...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davidc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ask for the valves cause of the problems I'm having. Couple weeks ago my cold idle jumped up to about 2000rpm. Then a little later jumped up to 2800rpm. Now, when it's warmed up, in jumps up and down between 1200 and 2100rpm. Pretty annoying and embarrasing at a stop light, especially when there is a cop next to you...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds to me like a vacuum issue.

 

That would be your FITV.

 

david check those threads that are posted earlier in this one...that is the same idle i had before i adjusted my FITV. chances are you don't need to buy anything.

and for the guys who bypassed both the FITV and EACV, have you noticed any performance increase or mpg changes?

 

I have no idea why anyone would want to remove such an integral part of the engine. Leave the removing of key engine components to the Hardparkers and show cars, for a daily driver you will see NO increase in performance at all. Honda would have not added them to the car if they were not needed. Bypassing and removing the FITV will do one thing only, give you a shitty start up and probably clog your cat from too much fuel and not enough air being delivered at idle. Think about it, your engine needs that extra air at start up and your depraving it of that while leaving the fuel delivery the same which will cause you to run rich. If you want some performance out of your engine do a routine tune up or go FI. Removing the FITV and EACV to get better fuel economy sounds ridiculous. This is a myth and nothing more.