i was gonna change my alternator today but after having to fix a busted garage door for ruffly 5hours of work.... well i decided not to try yet since its my daily driver.
im swapping out my stock alt for a iraqi high power alternator 180amps supposedly....
i bought it used but had it tested at autozone already and it at least passes there low amperage test for stock.

i hope it really puts alot of juice out.. since my stereo really needs it to keep up even tho my yellow top helps alot.
i have a show to go to this weekend with some DB drag comp tho my stereos not built yet BUT its free comp with show admision and ive gone the last 3years so gotta keep going

more power better bass.

sorry i was ranting.
im just curious if i have to remove the drivers side axle or can i leave it inplace and still get the old alternator out?
ive read from some people you can and some you cannt. anyone really done it and KNOW?
i hope to swap the alternator out tomorrow after work. i just hope it goes smoothly!

 

No you don't have to remove ur axle to get out ur alternator... I've replaced about 50 and never have once removed my axle, but I guess I could see how someone could come to that conclusion since they prolly figured it'd give you more room or w/e but i've never had to remove it tho... On all 92-00 D and B series...

 

nice..... glad to hear! i just hate removing axles! i removed my axles from my 94project civic plenty of times! wish i kept the car BUT it was for the best to pay off all my bills.

i just hope my cheaping out buying used will pay off with this used alternator. gonna definatly have it tested out right after i bolt it up to really test it out.....

 

No problem man... Also meant to ask, how come you just dont get a power cap for ur system..?? You BASSSSSSSINNN something serious over there?

 

well i do have 1/0gauge power and ground wires ran from my battery to the trunk
i like to have MORE than enough power and large wires than i do want to less.

a cap is no good anyways IMO. a cap does not a fix, its a bandaid! id rather add another battery or a high power alternator.

 

That was my 2nd vote lol... My homeboy hooked up 2 extra batteries for his system in his escalade with 6 MMATS 12's and about 20K watts through a couple different amps... But yeah he spent like at least 30-40g's on that **** hahaha, not my style i'd rather throw 2g's into my engine an call it a day, but damn dude good luck with that..

 

ya im keeping my motor stock pretty much. i just have a intake and header. only other thing id like to do is a manual swap eventualy..... the automatic can be nice at times but at other times it feels so slow.

 

you also dont have to remove it on the 88-91 civics.

 

easy way i havefound is to take of the brake booster and it will come right out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4doorek96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">easy way i havefound is to take of the brake booster and it will come right out</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm, still seems like doing extra stuff that doesnt really need to be done but i guess i could see how that'd help a little... im just more of a get in, get it out kinda guy i guess lol... but also when u've done something a bazillion times everything seems easy "even when its not" lol..

 

Try this...

Unbolt the alt.
Unbolt the lower alt mount.
Jack up the drivers side front wheel til it's off the ground.
Alt should slide out between the axle and the firewall.
Clean the mount as it is the ground for the alt.
reassemble.

 

i never took my axle out to replace an alternator so i would say no

 

what kinda amps and subs you running? bet mine are bigger lol.

 

probably... im still building. i did have a 12inch REaudio SX with my RF amp benched at 1,620watts rms but my alt was very lacking!
tho right now im just rocking a JBL 600watt amplifier on 2 12inch alpine type Rs. nothing to impressive right now it sjust my temp setup right now.


so far im still deciding on what to swap in i sold my old sub but i did keep the amplifier tho now im trying to decide if i should buy another or just one larger to replace it with. and maybe a 15inch FIaudio BTL loaded.

i do have a second yellow top optima just siting on my shelf waiting to go in BUT buying al the cables i want to be safe and match will cost quite a bit. i also need some more 1/0power wire to replace my last older cheap welding cable. it works good but looks kinda bad.

here is my front battery.
http://i40.photobucket.com/alb...4.jpg

id rather have my stuff larger than to small. upgrade the wires once and be done with it.

 

nice
ive got 2 mtx thunder 9500's and 2 directed d2400's
all off 0 gauge. 7 cubic foot box too lol

 

If you can't get the alt out by finagling with it an easy solution is to take the fuel rail off ( 2x 10mm bolts i think ) and pull it right up from the top.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skcivic4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice
ive got 2 mtx thunder 9500's and 2 directed d2400's
all off 0 gauge. 7 cubic foot box too lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya my friend at work is trying to get me to buy some 9500s but thats to much cash for me plus 2..... well id have NO trunk space. i like alittle space! plus i like subs that most people havent heard of before... and ive heard great things about FIaudio BTL subs so ill have to try one. and its still cheaper than 1 9500.

heres my old setup that i built....




and my previous setup with my old amplfier. with a orion D2400 or something like that.... cannt remember exactly.




tho with my next setup im not sure how im gonna set it all up. but will be alot more work in the box, with fiberglass and alot more complex to fit better and more usable trunk space. im just not sure if i want it to be front firing still or regular towards the rear.
front firing, ALOT less to NO trunk rattling, but not as loud, rear firing better lows but rattling trunk like a **** its a give and take either way!

 

nice yea mine is my back seat
shoot id sell ya the subs, box and amps and a 10farad stinger cap for 700 lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skcivic4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice yea mine is my back seat
shoot id sell ya the subs, box and amps and a 10farad stinger cap for 700 lol


</TD></TR></TABLE>


goood luck to your ear drums!!!

 

well im mid way thru the swap and so far its been nothing but a PITA!

i had to remove the axle, then the axle stuck, had to beat it really hard to get it off, messed up the threads on the axle nut, spent 1/2hour trying to straighten them out. got pissed off and just went and bought a new axle before i go nuts and smash everything!
i even had to take out my oil filter.

no way i was gonna mess with my brakes. ive had to many problems with ABS brakes before!
i really hope this dam thing works dam good for all the hassle im going thru! and on a side note the alternators overdrive pulley also has a 4th groove. i dont think it will be a problem tho so im gonna keep it as-is and TRY to get it all put together tonight. back to work now. im just about ready to lose it!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicb16eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
goood luck to your ear drums!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

egh its only 150 db lol

 

well in short i had to stop now i have to drive my parents car to work tomorrow

i was about to push it and get done tonight BUT ran into ANOTHER PROBLEM. with the overdrive pulley which i totaly forgot about... with the overdrive pulley i would need a shorter belt to compensate.
so instead of pulling everything apart i dug thru my old parts drawers and found a old chrome alternator slide arm that has alot more adjustment. i just have to cut it down and drill a hole to bolt it up at least thats my plan right now. im tired and frustrated!

i hope to have a clearer head tomorrow after work!

and the overdrive pulley actualy has 2 more ribs on it. but it clears the side rails and belt looks straight so it looks like it should be good so far!

STILL CROSSING FINGERS till the job is done hopefully tomorrow and hopefully it puts out max power.

80bucks for a new axle sucks since it really shouldnt have been needed.

 

i just turn it up on its end and pull it from underneath...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skcivic4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice yea mine is my back seat
shoot id sell ya the subs, box and amps and a 10farad stinger cap for 700 lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont care for the backseat removal.... mainly because my old fullsize extended cab i had 2 15inch REaudio SX and 2500watts from a older orion amp where the rear bench seat was BUT making the truck a 2seater sucked for hanging out with friends but was a sweet back massage from the setup







wish i had better pictures but when i had my truck i didnt have a good camera and my old computer crashed so many times even the crappy pictures got all deleted.

with my new setups i like to keep the car at least a 4seater

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG_Warped &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just turn it up on its end and pull it from underneath...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i tried! for about 1/2an hour infact. it always grabed the case on the subframe small lip.

i tried it at every angle i could.....

maybe theres alittle damage from previous owners wrech that i cannt see that was keeping it from coming out. im stumped.
i might even have to buy a new outter tie rod soon because the one that was on it was stuck just like the axle in the spindle...
took a MAJOR BEATING to be able to loosen the regular nut that was on it. i figure some shop cheaped out and used a regular nut instead of the special looking locking nut. and well with using the fork to smash between the balljoint to tighten it up i tore the rubber pretty bad. but for now im gonna smash as much grease as i can inside it and just use a ton of electrical tape all around it to hopefully keep the grease in it till about fall when i lift the suspension for winter driving.