This was the first time I really got to tune a motor on a dyno. I don't know how many errors I made but it hasn't blown up yet.

Numbers aren't all that I hoped for but they don't seem like absolute junk. More tweaking in the future I guess? If something about anything looks off I'd love to know, I really am a noob at this kind of thing.

H22A Euro-R
AEM HAI
SMS header
SMS 400 cell rectangle cat
2.5" exhaust
3" Dynomax super turbo
PS kept, but no BS belt
Neptune RTP tuned me

Click the image for a smoothing = 0 version.

 

A/F readout?

 

Nothing logged in Winpep unfortunately.

I was tuning off my LC-1. The dyno's wideband required screwing into the exhaust pipe (which I didn't learn until after strapped down) and it was an extra $50 an hour. So I just ran off of my own.

Sadly Neptune's datalogging equipment is so-so. At maximum zoom the not trivially voltage offset wideband log looks like this: (red box shows where Run 21 happened)



ie pretty useless.

It wasn't a flat line but I kept it within a few tenths of 13.0 throughout. A bit richer before VTEC and way up top but not by too much.

 

Euro-r motor makes power passed 7k all the way to near enough 7,600 I've seen alot of H22a dyno's where it falls after 7k.

 

I'd say thats pretty good for just bolt ons. slap some cams in that hog.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nothing logged in Winpep unfortunately.

I was tuning off my LC-1. The dyno's wideband required screwing into the exhaust pipe (which I didn't learn until after strapped down) and it was an extra $50 an hour. So I just ran off of my own.

Sadly Neptune's datalogging equipment is so-so. At maximum zoom the not trivially voltage offset wideband log looks like this: (red box shows where Run 21 happened)



ie pretty useless.

It wasn't a flat line but I kept it within a few tenths of 13.0 throughout. A bit richer before VTEC and way up top but not by too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is your wideband. Post your NCL

 

Seems about right on the #'s

We dyno'd a CB SW 99 Euro R Motor and Trans

Greddy Header 1.9" collector
Greddy SP exhaust 1.9" into 60mm
High flow cat. 1.9"
AC and PS hooked up
AEM short ram air intake
345cc OBD1 H22A injectors
Manual Tensioner conversion
OBD1, P28 Crome Tuned

191 whp and I believe 152 trq dynojet
We then threw on a 3" short ram and a flow stack for shitz and giggles and got it up to 198 whp.

Same dyno and tuner pair of JDM H22A OBD1 Crx's
ESP H22A Header
3" short ram air intake
2.5 MB exhaust system, no cat
Secondaries hooked to Vtec
P28 Crome Tuned

204 whp 166 trq, 200 whp 168 trq.

 

lloyd,
send me your calibration

blakesvtec-AT-yahoo.com

 

did you ever get to a point to where adding ignition timing stopped making power?

On your high cam, the ignition is retarded the higher you go up in RPM when it should really be the opposite of that. You've got almost a 3* ignition spike from low cam to high cam.
On your next trip to the dyno, i would try synching the timing at vtec and slowly add timing until it stops making power. You could get an idea of where the ignition timing stands if you make a pull to X rpm and shut the engine down to analyze the ground strap.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2315208

map looks pretty good for a noob there lloyd

 

You'll get a little more from getting rid of the balance shafts and maybe a V-stack.... might get you closer to a 200 HP stock motor on that particular dyno at least. Are you still going to use PS?

Edit: Ah, but this is a more about tuning...which I know little about. Good healthy numbers though.


Modified by Televator at 9:23 AM 6/17/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sir Kyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say thats pretty good for just bolt ons. slap some cams in that hog. </TD></TR></TABLE>

HA!

I wish. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2292109

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is your wideband. Post your NCL </TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=PJLTSJ5L

ELD: 0V = 7.35AFR 5V = 22.9AFR (iirc) but it does suffer from offset.

If my flywheel's advance marks are at 15* then the distributor is matched up but it might be 12*. In that case it's a few degrees unsynched


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you ever get to a point to where adding ignition timing stopped making power?

On your high cam, the ignition is retarded the higher you go up in RPM when it should really be the opposite of that. You've got almost a 3* ignition spike from low cam to high cam.
On your next trip to the dyno, i would try synching the timing at vtec and slowly add timing until it stops making power. You could get an idea of where the ignition timing stands if you make a pull to X rpm and shut the engine down to analyze the ground strap.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2315208

map looks pretty good for a noob there lloyd </TD></TR></TABLE>

Synching the timing at VTEC?

Adding timing until it stopped making power was the basic principle here. It's easy to see me muffing that up though. And I was being cautious.

To be fair while my table timing numbers are pretty flat as RPMs increase the ECU is adding it's own thing as RPMs go up.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=PJLTSJ5L

ELD: 0V = 7.35AFR 5V = 22.9AFR (iirc) but it does suffer from offset.

If my flywheel's advance marks are at 15* then the distributor is matched up but it might be 12*. In that case it's a few degrees unsynched</TD></TR></TABLE>

You lock teh timing in neptune? You cut the resisitor for the ELD?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Televator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll get a little more from getting rid of the balance shafts and maybe a V-stack.... might get you closer to a 200 HP stock motor on that particular dyno at least. Are you still going to use PS?

Edit: Ah, but this is a more about tuning...which I know little about. Good healthy numbers though.


Modified by Televator at 9:23 AM 6/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

BS are unbelted, PS was bolted on and I used my OEM crank pulley.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You lock teh timing in neptune? You cut the resisitor for the ELD? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used Neptune to lock timing at 16.5*. No idea about ELD resistors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BS are unbelted, PS was bolted on and I used my OEM crank pulley.


I used Neptune to lock timing at 16.5*. No idea about ELD resistors. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You locked the timing at 16.5 and checked it at 15? That is one of the problems.

http://hrtuning.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=719

 

I locked it at 16.5* and put it almost to the 3rd of 3 lines which I assume on a 15* advance flywheel would be 17*.

However the center line might be 12*, I'll check that.

Interesting link on ELD. I expect some offset since the WB is grounded to the frame but this might help a lot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I locked it at 16.5* and put it almost to the 3rd of 3 lines which I assume on a 15* advance flywheel would be 17*.

However the center line might be 12*, I'll check that.

Interesting link on ELD. I expect some offset since the WB is grounded to the frame but this might help a lot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a adjustable one or adjust neptune to read the amount you want.

If I was not at work, I would look at your tune. I had a euroR baseline 206/162 on a DJ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This was the first time I really got to tune a motor on a dyno. I don't know how many errors I made but it hasn't blown up yet.

Numbers aren't all that I hoped for but they don't seem like absolute junk. More tweaking in the future I guess? If something about anything looks off I'd love to know, I really am a noob at this kind of thing.

H22A Euro-r


</TD></TR></TABLE> What was your intake manifold inlet bore size ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8_6 luder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What was your intake manifold inlet bore size ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

68mm.

It might seem like that is entirely obvious, Turbogixxer, but that is solid advice. Neptune does give me the tools to get it dialed in right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It might seem like that is entirely obvious, Turbogixxer, but that is solid advice. Neptune does give me the tools to get it dialed in right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem. Looks like the timing was retarded at teh distributor thus the lack of power.

Also, let the car cool down, your temps got to 212.

 

i really think it could use more timing. With 5 smoothing, your graph should be smooth as a babies ***.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No problem. Looks like the timing was retarded at teh distributor thus the lack of power.

Also, let the car cool down, your temps got to 212. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I might have been pushing it a bit. I tried to start runs under 200F, but it's hard to judge where ECTs go once coolant starts getting pushed around.

I was adding more timing and it seemed to start leveling out. But it could have been other factors like me getting the engine quite warm, adjusting fuel as well, etc, etc.

147tq out of a no BS 11:1 motor doesn't seem like a whole lot does it.