Just finished up a mini-me on a '90 CRX Si with a Y8 head on an A6. The oil light stays on when you start it up but once you rev it up a little it goes off and stays off. However it runs very well besides that. Could someone give me some relief?

There is one thing that I was thinking about. When I took the A6 head off I noticed that the previous owner for some reason DID NOT have the oil control jet in...

 

Your supossed to remove it when doing a mini me.
As for your oil light, maybe your sump is all clogged up.
Or need a new oil pump.

 

I know I'm supposed to remove it for the mini-me but it was non-existent already. As for the oil light it only stays on for a few seconds... Any other opinions on this?

 

are you using a larger oil filter? that lowers oil pressure

 

mine did the same, but not with the mini me swap. is there enough oil in the motor? my motor did that when there wasnt enough oil in the motor.. not sure why, guess it sent it all up top or something.

 

what is your idle at when the light is on? what rpm does it turn off?

 

I'm using a regular filter and oil level is perfect right at the top line.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zrickety &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is your idle at when the light is on? what rpm does it turn off? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Idling at about 1100, When it goes past around 3k it shuts off and stays off. It only does it when its at a cold idle.

 

bump

 

Curious: What weight oil are you using?

 

10w30

 

Loss of oil pressure due to the oil pump is usually unlikely. Pull one of your main caps and inspect the bearing. check your oil for metal shavings as well.

Forgot d series has a crank girdle

Anyway If your oil light only stays on for a few seconds after startup it should be ok. Hookup a mechanical oil pressure gauge just to be safe.

 

Thanks alot for the help. Thats another question, where's the best place to buy a t-fitting to hook up an oil pressure gauge?

 

if the light stays on at 1100 rpm, you probably need an oil pump. i wouldn't drive the car long in it's current state because you'll need to keep revving higher and eventually there will be no pressure.

as far as t-fitting for the gauge- on my old D-series i used a standard 1/8" pipe tee i think, at the back of the block where the pressure switch is. use teflon tape on the threads. i'd recommend an electric gauge with sender for safety and durability. it's a little more money, but totally worth it