Yes I did search, and i am open to the possibility someone might post a link which answers my question. In that case, the person wins and I am in fact, retarded.

I just swapped out my old shitty brakes on my 94 civic coupe to 93 gsr brakes. I do not have SS lines, since i ran out of money haha, and I have my stock ex brake booster and MC. the problem started before i did the brake job, where the brakes worked fine except for when you had to continually slow down. This left the pedal to the floor and when you repumped the brake it worked fine. When we swapped over the brakes we replaced the brake master cylander after realizing the same problem was occurring. I put on the new one bled the brakes and said to myself "Holy **** these feel a million times better than stock." but when i started my car, to the floor they depressed, and now grab so low, that im practically on the floor. I did leave on the rotors and brake pads which have been sitting for somewhere between 6-8 months, but all the surface rust is coming off now plus the pads were fine. Any ideas on why the pedal goes to the floor? We did rebleed but to no avail, and it did improve with me driving on it but only minutely.

 

did you bleed the master when you put it in? most people don't, you have to submerge it in brake fluid, or you can just bleed it the good old fashion way, and bleed the brakes, it will take for ever but it will work, just need to get the bubbles out of the master.

 

a bad wheel bearing will make you lose some feel. my cars done that both times i had a bad wheel bearing. but most likely the brakes arent completely bled yet. btw brake fluid absorbs air...give it a week to get out of the system

 

so the consensus is to just drive on it until it gets better? That has to be the problem unless theres a whole in my hard lines but i dont leak anything

 

like already mentioned, bench-bleed the master cylinder. a mushy pedal generally means air in the system.

 

Air in the lines, bleed, bleed, bleed!

I just did a brake swap on my pal's car and we bleed it in sequence 3 or 4 times and we still had air in the lines.

 

yeah i would make sure that all the air is out of your brake lines... so bleeeed wooo!

 

I had the same original problem you had.....replaced the slave cylinder on the tranny and all's well. There was no leakage of fluids anywhere, the pedal just kept going to the floor on long slowdowns.

Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedooo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a bad wheel bearing will make you lose some feel. my cars done that both times i had a bad wheel bearing. but most likely the brakes arent completely bled yet. btw brake fluid absorbs air...give it a week to get out of the system</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d357r0y &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Air in the lines, bleed, bleed, bleed!

I just did a brake swap on my pal's car and we bleed it in sequence 3 or 4 times and we still had air in the lines. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phoenix_ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like already mentioned, bench-bleed the master cylinder. a mushy pedal generally means air in the system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those two are right. Air in the lines give you a squishy pedal, generally (b/c I'm not going to say always) nothing else will give you a squishy brake pedal than air in the system, whether it be the master cyl's seal, or in the lines, whatever. There's air in the system.

Bleed the **** outta that thing, if it's still not getting pressure you have a bad seal/connection someplace that's allowing air into the system.

 

With this brake conversion, would the proportion valve to be changed also?

I know a lot of Teg owners switching from ABS or just upgrading brakes using a 40/40 Prop valve.

Peace,
E

 

yeah thats the thing i didnt upgrade the proportion valve, but i just got paid so new prop valve and SS lines are next on the list