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brake pedal goes to the floor. need help please

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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 06:07 PM
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Default brake pedal goes to the floor. need help please

Hi all. i got a 94 integra rs with ABS. i bled the brakes properly. from rear pass., front driver, rear driver, and front pass.. bled it til all the bubbles came out.

symptoms are: with the engine started and i press on the brakes, it slowly goes all the way to the floor. slowly. its my daily driver so the brakes do work, but i would have to pump it when braking.

brake pads and rotors are still good. no leaks at all. so my question is what would be the next best thing to check? im thinking the master cylinder has a leak somewhere or the brake booster, but not sure which part to check/replace first.

any good advice would be appreciated. ive already read around the forums on similar cases, but this one is for my particular application. thanks!
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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From my experiences, you might want to check that brake master cylinder.
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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Default Re: (acuratuner00)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuratuner00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From my experiences, you might want to check that brake master cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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Default Re: brake pedal goes to the floor. need help please (94jdmdb8)

ya dude im havin the same problem but mine only does it every now and then... what i did was at the time i was workin at a parts store so i use this pressure tool to like bleed the brakes and i hooked it up to my booster and pumped it up to make sure it held the pressure good. mine is a rs also but its not abs thank god so thats what has led me to the master cylinder cause it held pressure good. but if u replace that master cylinder i would go with the itr master cylinder.. it has a bigger bore.. i think its 1" make sure the brake lines r right tho.. cause mine werent good luck man
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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Default Re: brake pedal goes to the floor. need help please (94jdmdb8)

Did you fill up the Cylinder and did you tightly close all the bleeder bolts?
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 08:09 PM
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double check for leaks, and the prosedure to bleed is left front, right rear, right front, left rear.
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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Default Re: (acuratuner00)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuratuner00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From my experiences, you might want to check that brake master cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any part particular? or just replace the whole thing? and how can i test it? will any 94-01 integra w/ abs work?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamXteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya dude im havin the same problem but mine only does it every now and then... what i did was at the time i was workin at a parts store so i use this pressure tool to like bleed the brakes and i hooked it up to my booster and pumped it up to make sure it held the pressure good. mine is a rs also but its not abs thank god so thats what has led me to the master cylinder cause it held pressure good. but if u replace that master cylinder i would go with the itr master cylinder.. it has a bigger bore.. i think its 1" make sure the brake lines r right tho.. cause mine werent good luck man</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the input. saw a 1" mc at the yard the other day. boutta go back get it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steven. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you fill up the Cylinder and did you tightly close all the bleeder bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes reservoir was kept topped off the whole time and after i was done. and yes all bleeder bolts are tight. no leaks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by God-Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">double check for leaks, and the prosedure to bleed is left front, right rear, right front, left rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
have checked many times. not a drop in my garage.

hmm about the procedure, i believe my way is the correct way. anyone confirm this? not doubting you bro, thanks for the input. just need to get some more facts in.

Thanks
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 09:18 PM
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Default Re: (94jdmdb8)

Just replace the master cylinder. i went through the same thing and narrowed it down to the master cylinder. even if it has a leak, its not worth saving.
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 11:34 PM
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master cylinder seal is shot, wont hold pressure
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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Default Re: (94jdmdb8)

Rear right, front left, rear left, front right. for 94 teg so you bled it in the right order, yeah.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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bad MC. Get a re-man one from AutoZone. That fixed my sinking pedal.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 11:30 AM
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Default Re: (db-1charlie)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by db-1charlie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just replace the master cylinder. i went through the same thing and narrowed it down to the master cylinder. even if it has a leak, its not worth saving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpeso23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">master cylinder seal is shot, wont hold pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bad MC. Get a re-man one from AutoZone. That fixed my sinking pedal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks guys. will change it asap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steven. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rear right, front left, rear left, front right. for 94 teg so you bled it in the right order, yeah.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for confirmation.
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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Default Re: (94jdmdb8)

update. just changed the master cylinder and brakes are still the same. bench bled the MC properly and also bled all the wheels. still same problem.

what should i check next? brake booster, calipers, prop. valve?

taking it to brake masters for free inspection soon.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:49 AM
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Default Re: (94jdmdb8)

It sounds like there is no pressure, is ur fluid reserve still filled up after u push on the brake?
let us know what they say at brake masters.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 12:10 PM
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Default Re: (Steven.)

i have the same problem, my buddy was pumping my brakes alot, like to the floor to make the rpms move, anyway that really mest everything up, now i have no preasure in my brakes, ill stop then creep forward with realizing it, not good ,,,,help
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 08:06 PM
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Default Re: (Steven.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steven. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like there is no pressure, is ur fluid reserve still filled up after u push on the brake?
let us know what they say at brake masters.</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is pressure, but its losing pressure. I still drive the car daily. it feels worst on hotter days. and yes the fluid is kept max while bleeding the system.

went to brake masters today. they said my mc is defective and will need to be replaced. quoted $500 with flush. im gonna replace it with a new/refurb one myself and see how it goes. the one i replaced it with at first was from picknpull for $10

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by manintux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same problem, my buddy was pumping my brakes alot, like to the floor to make the rpms move, anyway that really mest everything up, now i have no preasure in my brakes, ill stop then creep forward with realizing it, not good ,,,,help</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah youre not supposed to pump it all the way to the floor. only like 75%. and assuming you have an automatic, its even worst.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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i had the same problem when doing my abs removal, mfg specs for bleading were different from what we usually do, so we did it the mfg specs and still was having the same problem, we then bleaded our way which was RR, LR, RF, LF. ended up being find, most likely we still had some bubbles in our system
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 12:13 PM
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Default Re: (JuggsxCOmanDO)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JuggsxCOmanDO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem when doing my abs removal, mfg specs for bleading were different from what we usually do, so we did it the mfg specs and still was having the same problem, we then bleaded our way which was RR, LR, RF, LF. ended up being find, most likely we still had some bubbles in our system</TD></TR></TABLE>

so youre saying that bleeding it that way fixed your problem? maybe i will give it a try and see how it goes. thanks
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 12:32 PM
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Default Re: (94jdmdb8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JuggsxCOmanDO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem when doing my abs removal, mfg specs for bleading were different from what we usually do, so we did it the mfg specs and still was having the same problem, we then bleaded our way which was RR, LR, RF, LF. ended up being find, most likely we still had some bubbles in our system</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haines manual says to bleed in this order. From furthest from the MC to closest.

Did you initially remove the old fluid from the reservoir? Say with a turkey baster or something? If not, and if your buddy was pumping the pedal to the floor, chances are he screwed up that new MC himself by scoring the cylinder walls...that's why they say pump it halfway, not even 75%.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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Default Re: (TurbdEG6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurbdEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Haines manual says to bleed in this order. From furthest from the MC to closest.

Did you initially remove the old fluid from the reservoir? Say with a turkey baster or something? If not, and if your buddy was pumping the pedal to the floor, chances are he screwed up that new MC himself by scoring the cylinder walls...that's why they say pump it halfway, not even 75%.</TD></TR></TABLE>

according to my haynes and helms manual, proper procedure is RR,FL,RL,FR

my system has all new fluid. mc was properly bench bled. and ive never heard of 50% pump.

Thanks
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:55 PM
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Default Re: (94jdmdb8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94jdmdb8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

according to my haynes and helms manual, proper procedure is RR,FL,RL,FR

my system has all new fluid. mc was properly bench bled. and ive never heard of 50% pump.

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine is also for a DA, not a DC....so I could be wrong.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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Default Re: (TurbdEG6)

Question: between the master cylinder and the brake booster, how many seals are there suppose to be?

i can see 1 round, black seal inside the brake booster where the mc rod goes in. maybe its suppose to go around the rod, but was left in the booster.

and also another one inside the master cylinder with a C-clip holding it.

is there suppose to be another one?
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Old May 1, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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Default Re: brake pedal goes to the floor. need help please

back from the dead... did you ever fix your issue?
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Old May 1, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Default Re: (Steven.)

went to brake masters today. they said my mc is defective and will need to be replaced. quoted $500 with flush. im gonna replace it with a new/refurb one myself and see how it goes. the one i replaced it with at first was from picknpull for $10


$500! I don't know where you live. But I took my car to Midas (so-cal) with the same problem. They replaced my MC and flushed my system $239. And that was including Reman MC. Then I found out that it was my booster. Which I paid $200 for a reman one. And did everything myself this time. And everything works perfect now.

And I would check this too:
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