Ok, here's the deal. I've been wanting to go to the shop and have my VAFC tuned but they are precious on their time and wouldn't give me a time and day. I have a 2000gsr with dc header, AEM CAI w/ bypass, and tanabe racing medallion. What kind of seting is recommended on my vafc? I know it's better to get them tuned but i they don't have the time and i don't know anywhere else. I just need an approx. setting from someone so i can minipulate their setting and see if it works well with mine. Thanks for the help


[Modified by integragsr6, 7:37 AM 7/17/2002]

 

on mine i raised VTEC to 4500 hi / 4400 lo, and for WOT i did +1 for the fuel settings from 4000 --> 7000

don't stray far from there; its ok to play a little but remember that it could have adverse effects.

 

On one of the sites that i've read, i thought you had it at -5% on the WOT? Also what about the NARR Throttle point? Did you leave them at zero or change them also?

 

the only settings i touched were the first 3.

the site that you saw wasn't mine, i just found it.

 

still need some input people.......thanks

 

You want to tune that thing for 13:1 to 13.5:1 area for a bolt on application. IF you get that thing on the dyno, you will see that top end is nasty rich on any gsr motor. You are better off bringing it to the dyno and I am sure many people will agree. $75 bucks for tuning is not really that bad. All you need is one hour to play around with it.
EVIL

 

Is setting it towards the negative numbers adding more fuel or less? What do those positive and negative correlation tell you when adjusting air/fuel?

 

u really dont need the VAFC if u only have I/H/E.
once u get bigger cams u may

 

Hey, my brother has a 97 gsr and he has a few mods as well and we set his VAFC to 4800 L/H and 4400 H/l with a wide throttle setting at -6% from 4500rpm to redline and it his car now really moves.
Try those settings and see what happens.

 

hmmm, what about his narr throttle setting? Did he leave them at zero?

 

I think going into -'s will make you run richer....When I dyno'd my ITR I was running rich at stock settings. We set the correction at +6 from 4000 to 8000 and this leaned things out perfectly. I didn't touch my VTEC engagement because I'm running on stock cams. I tried setting it from 5800 to 5500, VTEC would engage but not pull strong so I left it at it's stock setting.

 

oic, now i think i can do a blind setting....hopefully it'll work out.

 

lean out the top end, raise vtec to like 4800.

 

Narrow throttle is only used when for like normal driving and you don't need to touch those setting. Just to let some of you know that -'s mean less fuel and + means more fuel, a gsr runs rich stock to begin with so you want to take some fuel away if you are not running boost to make a better air/fuel mixture.
Oh and the stock vtec engagement for a gsr is 4400 rpm and then the duel stage runners open up at 5800 thats why it sounds louder. I hoped i helped in some way.

 

When I had my 98 gsr dyno'd I was running lean on the top end. We added +7 from 5-6 and +8 6-8 and I was able to get about 9 hp from that. It is a great tool, but you need to be on the dyno every car is different.

 

go to the dyno.

every car is different, and your butt is a poor measure.

 

what should the sensor type be set to 05 in and out on a gsr motor????


[Modified by HybridRexy, 6:00 PM 7/27/2002]

 

06 in and 06 out

 

I thought you weren't supposed to change your vtec point because of the way it is all configured, its already set up pretty much optimal for basic mods. Thats why guys w/ vtec often choose an safc over a vafc