what are some of you NDRA/IFO racers .400 pro tree reaction times assuming .000 is perfect as is typically is.

 

Mine are so disgusting I am not even gonna post em. I swear it feels like I tree well but when you see your slip you're like WTF! Ya know

 

I can usually cut lights between .120 - .150 consistantly if I leave on yellow. I've cut some .0x and .00x lights just going for broke.

 

around .120ish in the Hot Rod. In my street car usually .050 ish

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jjspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">around .120ish in the Hot Rod. In my street car usually .050 ish</TD></TR></TABLE>

so far i havnt seen any sub .100 times. I was in the .100's friday night.

 

I'm pretty bad on the tree. Haven't had alot of cracks at it either. If I'm on the ball I'll do a low .110-.150. But nowhere near consistant.

 

Ok guys who say sub.100's consistantly must show 10 slips to prove it. Cuase I call

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rota92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Different cars leave differently, so it's hard to compare different class cars.

In my TS-ish car it was .080's pretty constantly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is very true. Look at Pro Stock vs Funny Car/Top Fuel. In a regular street car I am very deadly once I get some seat time in the car. I have done some .00X's but usually it is in the .05X range.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HR-1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok guys who say sub.100's consistantly must show 10 slips to prove it. Cuase I call </TD></TR></TABLE>

If I can find my slips I will post them. I usually cut .0xx when I am rested and not hungover. On the other days I cut .1xx lights

 

lying sack of potatoes. lol

 

does anyone here like to stage deep on pro tree? and wouldnt that help get a quicker et as well?

 

I averaged below a .040 but my car was a pro car that could be set up to hit the tree hard. I would assume that you could get a fwd to hit the tree hard too but it just doesn't seem that anyone pays attention that part of there car. If you are consistent with the same number on your reaction time than you can improve it through adjustments to your car. If you are inconsistent with your reaction times then it doesn't really matter what you do to your cr, it's in your head.

NHRA had an article on there web site one year that listed everyones reaction times and how many red light starts each person had but I can't find any of the old articles off of NHRA's web site, they are all gone I guess now that NHRA is out of the game.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paisley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I averaged below a .040 but my car was a pro car that could be set up to hit the tree hard. I would assume that you could get a fwd to hit the tree hard too but it just doesn't seem that anyone pays attention that part of there car. If you are consistent with the same number on your reaction time than you can improve it through adjustments to your car. If you are inconsistent with your reaction times then it doesn't really matter what you do to your cr, it's in your head.

NHRA had an article on there web site one year that listed everyones reaction times and how many red light starts each person had but I can't find any of the old articles off of NHRA's web site, they are all gone I guess now that NHRA is out of the game.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or the video I took of you treeing the **** out of Ara! LOL

 

chicken head - deep staging on a pro tree will improve your reaction time, but actually make your ET slower. Shallow staging will give you a better run at the timing beam (an extra few inches of acceleration) so you are already in motion when the clocks start, hence a better ET.

 

I hit a perfect reaction one time but that was when i was still in bracket racing. In the street class the best i hit was .120 at stage

 

do you have to launch the moment the 3 yellows come on to achieve less than .100 R/T? orrrr, will that redlight? i haven't had a chance to practice with my car. for the sake of argument, lets say this is a fwd car that gets ~1.6x 60ft times. i'd really like to rent a track for a day just to practice the tree!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have to launch the moment the 3 yellows come on to achieve less than .100 R/T? orrrr, will that redlight? i haven't had a chance to practice with my car. for the sake of argument, lets say this is a fwd car that gets ~1.6x 60ft times. i'd really like to rent a track for a day just to practice the tree!</TD></TR></TABLE>

It would be a lot cheaper to just buy a practice tree. I bought one a few years ago and it has everytype of tree you can imagine. Plus it helps with your rt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It would be a lot cheaper to just buy a practice tree. I bought one a few years ago and it has everytype of tree you can imagine. Plus it helps with your rt</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but i can think of better things to buy for 250$

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah but i can think of better things to buy for 250$</TD></TR></TABLE>


Look on racing junk you can usually find them a lot cheaper then that.

 

Practice trees are ok but they are not real world as you don’t let the clutch out with your finger. The only way to improve on RT's is by doing it in YOUR race / street car. The car is then set up around your perception of the tree from the seat. It also makes a huge difference at the time of day you are racing. As you can see there are many factors that contribute to consistency but it starts between the ears!

 

The only way to get consistent on the tree is by doing the same thing over and over again. The general rule I use, that I was told a long time ago, is to not worry about the reaction time the first qualifier and get in to the show. I then use my next two qualifiers to see how hard I can hit the tree. It is very hard in these cars to go red when normal staging on a .400 tree.

Not sure what the practice tree proves, Ferguson kills me at the Castrol booth at PRI, but we all know what has happened on the track

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jUNkYarDawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hit a perfect reaction one time but that was when i was still in bracket racing. In the street class the best i hit was .120 at stage</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just look at one bulb, don't pay attention to all three. As soon as you see that yellow start to come on, LEAVE!!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Toyotakid714 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Practice trees are ok but they are not real world as you don’t let the clutch out with your finger. The only way to improve on RT's is by doing it in YOUR race / street car. The car is then set up around your perception of the tree from the seat. It also makes a huge difference at the time of day you are racing. As you can see there are many factors that contribute to consistency but it starts between the ears!</TD></TR></TABLE>

A lot of people tell you to do the same thing everytime, I never really did that. When you get into a racing situation you will be put in situations that change a lot and you will still have to leave good in every situation.

 

i cut a perfect light one time racing mr. laskey one time. it was a total accident though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paisley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A lot of people tell you to do the same thing everytime, I never really did that. When you get into a racing situation you will be put in situations that change a lot and you will still have to leave good in every situation. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Paisley, not to give you grief but I think I'd follow Scott's advise if I were you. That is unless you have more Walley's then he does.

XXXRacing, Mr Ballard is another guy I'd listen to. That is unless you have....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1992Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Paisley, not to give you grief but I think I'd follow Scott's advise if I were you. That is unless you have more Walley's then he does.

XXXRacing, Mr Ballard is another guy I'd listen to. That is unless you have....</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's cool, I'm just giving you my point of view, everyone has to do things tere own way. When I raced my truck I remember I got tree'd one time by Grant downing at Sonoma and h was gone, I forgot what light I cut that day but I remember he went .412 and I was just watching him walk away from me and I was pissed but that's the ONLY time anyone ever tree'd us in that class in three years. Any other time that anyone left on me, they went red. What we did with our race car at the line worked very well for us and if you think you are going to have the opportunity to do everything the same way in every race, you are mistaken.