EMRacing bars in Crx installation
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 344
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From: montreal, Quebec, Canada
So just purchase the three EMRacing bars for my Crx. I was curious about this type of product. It didn’t come with any instructions, it was straightforward installation for the most part. I was also missing one bracket and the quick release hardware. Luckily, the shop who sold me the kit had an extra bracket.
The only think that took me a while (a few hours) to figure out was the anchor point for the triangulated bar (center bar) on top. It doesn't hook up like the others cars. Important that when removing one of the trunk pistons that you place a 2x4 to support the heavy trunk. I didn't do that and the trunk slammed on my head!
I haven't tested on the race track yet. The only think I am not sure is the re-enforcement point at the c-pillar (top bar). My feeling, it's not doing much for the Crx because upon adjusting the bar, the end points where flexing outwards. However, what I have deduced is that you have to adjust the c-pillar (top bar) so that it is “tight” but not to the point that it’s bending the end points. Then add the triangulated bar (mid-bar) and adjust the mid-bar until it is very tight. As for the strut bar (bottom bar), I raised the rear abit and I adjusted the bar until tight.
Another problem had arised also, I couldn't close my trunk anymore. It seems that with all adjustements, some minor "deformation" was created. So, I had to play around with the whole locking mechanism. Time to install: 3-4 hours!
The c-pillar would be more useful for other cars because the anchor brackets are actually sitting on a metal surface. As for the Crx, the anchor brackets are not really sitting on very much surface (see photos). So, there’re not 100% “stable”, there is still abit of flex.
This kit is not well adapted for the Crx rear chassis design. I will see if I can improve this c-pillar design. Overall, the product is well built and looks good. 5/10




I added some old washers in the meantime until I go buy new ones.

This is what I figured out, kind of weird.

Modified by blaak-crx at 1:43 PM 6/6/2008
The only think that took me a while (a few hours) to figure out was the anchor point for the triangulated bar (center bar) on top. It doesn't hook up like the others cars. Important that when removing one of the trunk pistons that you place a 2x4 to support the heavy trunk. I didn't do that and the trunk slammed on my head!
I haven't tested on the race track yet. The only think I am not sure is the re-enforcement point at the c-pillar (top bar). My feeling, it's not doing much for the Crx because upon adjusting the bar, the end points where flexing outwards. However, what I have deduced is that you have to adjust the c-pillar (top bar) so that it is “tight” but not to the point that it’s bending the end points. Then add the triangulated bar (mid-bar) and adjust the mid-bar until it is very tight. As for the strut bar (bottom bar), I raised the rear abit and I adjusted the bar until tight.
Another problem had arised also, I couldn't close my trunk anymore. It seems that with all adjustements, some minor "deformation" was created. So, I had to play around with the whole locking mechanism. Time to install: 3-4 hours!
The c-pillar would be more useful for other cars because the anchor brackets are actually sitting on a metal surface. As for the Crx, the anchor brackets are not really sitting on very much surface (see photos). So, there’re not 100% “stable”, there is still abit of flex.
This kit is not well adapted for the Crx rear chassis design. I will see if I can improve this c-pillar design. Overall, the product is well built and looks good. 5/10




I added some old washers in the meantime until I go buy new ones.

This is what I figured out, kind of weird.

Modified by blaak-crx at 1:43 PM 6/6/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaak-crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Important that when removing one of the trunk pistons that you place a 2x4 to support the heavy trunk. I didn't do that and the trunk slammed on my head!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you remove a hatch support and it's no longer supported? Never would have figured..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you remove a hatch support and it's no longer supported? Never would have figured..
He he he.... I would recommend some sort of loc-tite on those bolts. Where are the nylon locking nuts?
Then I noticed that there is not room on some of them.
Then I noticed that there is not room on some of them.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
From: montreal, Quebec, Canada
I'm going to put some Loc-tite. It just so happens that they did not give me the right C-pillar/triangular bar bracket. So, awaiting for that missing piece.
EMRacing theory:
http://www.emracing.com/formula.html
CRX Toad: Me too I was wondering about the point of having such bars, taking a chance. I will test this product on the race track. All I know is that the chassis in the rear does have some flex. I have tried driving with these bars loose (tight on one end, loose on the other) and I can hear them move (anchor points).
Modified by blaak-crx at 2:39 AM 6/7/2008
EMRacing theory:
http://www.emracing.com/formula.html
CRX Toad: Me too I was wondering about the point of having such bars, taking a chance. I will test this product on the race track. All I know is that the chassis in the rear does have some flex. I have tried driving with these bars loose (tight on one end, loose on the other) and I can hear them move (anchor points).
Modified by blaak-crx at 2:39 AM 6/7/2008
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