Please help me in my buying of a hatch
ok i have a few questions
im looking at a 92 civic hatch vx with 155000 miles on it from a junkyard
the guy wants $2500 for it what should i offer him for it (i dont know if it was totaled or not ill find out soon everything was fixed if it was)??.
Whats the diff. with the vx,cx,dx and si???
how do i tell if its the canadian model prewired for vtec??
im contimplating buying this car or turboing my d16y8 if i buy the hatch ill sell my 98 coupe and fix this one up
im looking at a 92 civic hatch vx with 155000 miles on it from a junkyard
the guy wants $2500 for it what should i offer him for it (i dont know if it was totaled or not ill find out soon everything was fixed if it was)??.
Whats the diff. with the vx,cx,dx and si???
how do i tell if its the canadian model prewired for vtec??
im contimplating buying this car or turboing my d16y8 if i buy the hatch ill sell my 98 coupe and fix this one up
Sounds like you've got a lot of research left to do.
I'll start you off. First of all, ALL 92's were pre-wired for VTEC. I'm not sure when that "canadian" thing got added in, but it's redundant.
VX - vtecE engine, lightest model because of the lightweight wheels and no soundproofing
CX - Basically, a VX with steel wheels and the crappiest engine.
DX - better engine, rear wiper, soundproofing, side molding
SI - rear swaybar, vtec engine, sunroof, rear wiper, ac,
If you're going to do a swap AND don't need to drive it beforehand, your goal should be to find the cleanest body at the cheapest price you can find. Mileage doesn't matter. For that matter, a salvage/theft title doesn't really matter either. So what if your $2000 car is a salvage car... as long as the frame is straight.
Look for straight body panels and check for rust. It usually appears over the rear wheel well first. If you want to have AC, it would help to buy a car that has it already installed.
The market is kinda funny. I bought my CX shell for $1900 and it was in good condition. I've seen shells go for less than that, and I've seen really ragged out (running) cars go for more. Everyone and their cousin is looking for these cars though, so they're not exactly easy to find for a good price.
I'll start you off. First of all, ALL 92's were pre-wired for VTEC. I'm not sure when that "canadian" thing got added in, but it's redundant.
VX - vtecE engine, lightest model because of the lightweight wheels and no soundproofing
CX - Basically, a VX with steel wheels and the crappiest engine.
DX - better engine, rear wiper, soundproofing, side molding
SI - rear swaybar, vtec engine, sunroof, rear wiper, ac,
If you're going to do a swap AND don't need to drive it beforehand, your goal should be to find the cleanest body at the cheapest price you can find. Mileage doesn't matter. For that matter, a salvage/theft title doesn't really matter either. So what if your $2000 car is a salvage car... as long as the frame is straight.
Look for straight body panels and check for rust. It usually appears over the rear wheel well first. If you want to have AC, it would help to buy a car that has it already installed.
The market is kinda funny. I bought my CX shell for $1900 and it was in good condition. I've seen shells go for less than that, and I've seen really ragged out (running) cars go for more. Everyone and their cousin is looking for these cars though, so they're not exactly easy to find for a good price.
if it runs u should buy it. but if it dont...too expensive. and d16...u can turbo it..i have a turboed D15Z civic vx hatch for that matter....
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