13's or lower all motor ls
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Making 1/4mi beer runs in 11sec or less
A project Integra built by a company made three 13.4 second passes back to back with full interior in a Gen3 LS with this setup: JG Stage 2 Cams, Port and Polish, Bigger Valves, Milled head to take the engine with stock pistons to 10:1 compression, Slicks, Iceman Intake, Thermal 2.25" exhaust, a chipped ECU, and a DC SS 4-2-1 header. It put out roughly ~174whp and ~132ft-lbs with peak power being around 7500rpm.
My setup to do it is much more built and can do it without slicks, but my 93 LS is also gutted to be all bare metal with only the 2 front seats and no power steering. It's easier then you think to get an LS into the 13's, but it is still much easier and cheaper to boost it. I did it for 2k but I doubt anyone else could, I just got a lot of parts hookups, free headwork, etc. So I say, you prob should just boost it, it'll make a better daily driver that way. IM me if you want more info about it and I'll try to help all I can. Hope I was helpful, later.
[Modified by Zero_Effect, 3:43 AM 7/17/2002]
My setup to do it is much more built and can do it without slicks, but my 93 LS is also gutted to be all bare metal with only the 2 front seats and no power steering. It's easier then you think to get an LS into the 13's, but it is still much easier and cheaper to boost it. I did it for 2k but I doubt anyone else could, I just got a lot of parts hookups, free headwork, etc. So I say, you prob should just boost it, it'll make a better daily driver that way. IM me if you want more info about it and I'll try to help all I can. Hope I was helpful, later.
[Modified by Zero_Effect, 3:43 AM 7/17/2002]
all motor is the way to go. there are plenty of people on this site with low 13 second cars all motor and I know of 3 in the type R board that have hit a high 12 all motor.
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From the honda performance FAQ
We built a 95 LS with a ported head (DPR), RC monster-bore T-body
(66 or 68mm), Longer valves (so that rocker geometry is correct with
reground cams), adjustable cam gears, and some big cams. The
head was milled and the engine runs at about 10:1 compression.
He also has DC headers, Thermal exhaust, iceman intake, no cat.
We tried 3 different cam sets, a medium grind from DPR that made 153 hp
at the wheels, but still idled good (all dyno numbers are from a Dynojet
dyno), a set of JG 301s that made 171 hp to the wheels, but we had to increase
fuel pressure and the idle sucked. The last set was the newer Gude cams
and they made 174 hp to the wheel, and their idle sucked too. Actually,
it sounds kinda cool, like blup, ba, bup-bup, bup, bup, bup-ba. This
particular car runs mid 13s on slicks. He ran back to back 13.55s at 98+
mph with some weight reduction. If you consider a 14% loss of power through the
drivetrain, this particular B18B makes around 202 hp at the flywheel.
(his rpm limit was removed, and peak power is about 7500 rpm.
Torque was about 138 or 139 to the wheels (161 ft lbs to the flywheel).
(66 or 68mm), Longer valves (so that rocker geometry is correct with
reground cams), adjustable cam gears, and some big cams. The
head was milled and the engine runs at about 10:1 compression.
He also has DC headers, Thermal exhaust, iceman intake, no cat.
We tried 3 different cam sets, a medium grind from DPR that made 153 hp
at the wheels, but still idled good (all dyno numbers are from a Dynojet
dyno), a set of JG 301s that made 171 hp to the wheels, but we had to increase
fuel pressure and the idle sucked. The last set was the newer Gude cams
and they made 174 hp to the wheel, and their idle sucked too. Actually,
it sounds kinda cool, like blup, ba, bup-bup, bup, bup, bup-ba. This
particular car runs mid 13s on slicks. He ran back to back 13.55s at 98+
mph with some weight reduction. If you consider a 14% loss of power through the
drivetrain, this particular B18B makes around 202 hp at the flywheel.
(his rpm limit was removed, and peak power is about 7500 rpm.
Torque was about 138 or 139 to the wheels (161 ft lbs to the flywheel).
Even if you have the money to do it the motor wont last long. Its just not meant to be rev'ed high which is the only way you're going to get all motor power.
Even if you have the money to do it the motor wont last long. Its just not meant to be rev'ed high which is the only way you're going to get all motor power.
Upgrade the valve train and you can go past 8000+
safely.
An ls can be as reliable as a gsr is the top end is
done right.
Honda-Tech Member
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From: Making 1/4mi beer runs in 11sec or less
I don't rev past 8k for safety reasons but with ITR pistons, good rodbolts, crower titanium springs and retainers I am just fine doing so. Most ppl who have LS-Vtec's rev past 8k racing and I can assure you my B18b is much more reliable and will last much longer then that. Honda engines take a beating.
Never gonna happen in an LS all motor setup unless you are running on slicks and have spent thousands on top of thousands of dollars working the engine. If you want a 13 second all motor Integra, get an ITR or push a GSR hard. You want a mid 12 second LS, go with the best setup of any Integra. Turbocharged Integra LS!! @ 9 psi = 1/4 time of around 13.2, and higher and you'll be in the 12's.
Never gonna happen in an LS all motor setup unless you are running on slicks and have spent thousands on top of thousands of dollars working the engine
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6,035
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From: Making 1/4mi beer runs in 11sec or less
Never gonna happen in an LS all motor setup unless you are running on slicks and have spent thousands on top of thousands of dollars working the engine. If you want a 13 second all motor Integra, get an ITR or push a GSR hard. You want a mid 12 second LS, go with the best setup of any Integra. Turbocharged Integra LS!! @ 9 psi = 1/4 time of around 13.2, and higher and you'll be in the 12's.
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