Bought this car not too long ago, but want to cover all my bases before I have it tuned, was tuned by previous owner, but was told that it needed more time on the dyno to get the most out of it.

So I need a good IM/TB to go with this setup;

LS engine block bored .25 over
Ported B16 cylinder head
CTR/PCT pistons
Peak Performance pro series camshafts
Portflow Dual Valve Springs
Portflow Titanium Retainers
Skunk 2 Adjustable cam gears
Golden Eagle Block Guard
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC conversion kit
AN-R Compact Header Jet Hot coated
RSR exmag exhaust
test pipe
ITR oil pump
ITR water pump
Power Enterprise Timing belt
Honda main and rod bearings
AEBS main studs
AEBS head studs
Performance Motor Sports machine work
GSR tranny
ITR LSD
P28 tuned with crome
Walbro 255lph high pressure fuel pump
RC 370 cc injectors
SPAL cooling fan
Memory-Fab Carbon Fiber Intake
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
Endyn catch can/breather kit

Thanks!

 

ib ported itr with a 68mm tb. or victor x with a 64mm tb .

 

I was thinking either performer or victor x, wasn't sure what a good throttle body was to match up with it.

 

A Victor X is not ideal for any all motor application unless your reving to the moon or your head and cams and your motor all together, are producing a **** ton of air..
A victor X is more idle for turbo motor or nitrous setups... the short fat runners are not what you want for your low or mid range.. Maybe i'm wrong, but according to the specs, this manifold isn't power producing until 6~11k rpms..
A PerformerX manifold is probably the "Best" manifold out aside from a IB ported manifold for a 1.8 liter setup.
I find on my pX manifold my Power Throttle body 70mm matched up fine, Considering the opening on the manifold is around 68mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I find on my pX manifold my Power Throttle body 70mm matched up fine, Considering the opening on the manifold is around 68mm</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats because the pp tb is 68mm at the plate, just like ur opened up 68mm im entry. i'm partial to either aebs is oem itr. but with pcts, im and tb advice should be the last of ur concerns

 

ya.. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rollo Lawson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats because the pp tb is 68mm at the plate, just like ur opened up 68mm im entry. i'm partial to either aebs is oem itr. but with pcts, im and tb advice should be the last of ur concerns</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed.. ctr pistons lol.. i laugh.

 

I didn't build the engine, and I don't know everything about building an engine.

So please tell me what is wrong with the pistons?

Thanks!

 

Your compression is insanely high.. Infact alot higher then most would run..
google.com search zealautowerks compression calulator and input your mods..
at the bottem it'll ask for rpms make sure you put your redline in.

but just as a rough guess, with a ls crank, on ctr pistons and a b16 head or even a gsr head your cp is high.

*edit* i just did it for you,
b16 head witha oem HG
LS crank / LS rods on ctr pistons spinningto 8k rpms = 13.9 CR.

 

The previous owner said it was around 13cr, but I didn't think that was a big problem being all motor.

So I should change the pistons?

Obviously I want this to be a reliable car...

 

their not the best but if tuned you shouldn't have a problem. are you looking to rebuild your entire engine or just get a intake manifold and t/b?

 

Not really I just wanted to complete the upgrades like the intake manifold and throttle body, and what ever else...

Rebuilding the engine is not something I wanted to mess with honestly, but this will be my only car next year, so it has to be reliable. Trying to get out of car payments for awhile...

 

how many mile on the setup...have you drivin it alot aready?

you setup isn't to bad. a itr manifold and 65mm t/b will be nice but their many options.

 

It's a garage queen for now, I don't even drive it in the rain unless it pops up on me.

Supposedly there is around 8,000 miles on the engine since the build (125k on chasis), the guy I bought it from was/is a honda tech, he only had it about 6 months before he sold it to me (his wife made him sell his toy to buy carpet for the house). He bought it from the guy who built it.

I bought it like last October, driven a couple times before winter, then stored all winter, just started driving again Aprilish. Since I bought a house, moved etc, I've put about 700ish miles on it.

Supposedly the TB on it now is a GSR, but I'm not sure, and suppoedly it has a skunk 2 manifold, but I don't see the skunk 2 logo on it, so I doubt it.

 

the old manifold's wern't marked. i would dyno that manifold with a 64mm t/b and see what it does. it might be enough for your setup

 

I just wanted to get the most out of the dyno usage, which is why I wanted to upgrade everything before, no point in paying twice...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16 head witha oem HG
LS crank / LS rods on ctr pistons spinningto 8k rpms = 13.9 CR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That compression and daily driver should not be in the same sentence.

 

Well I had the motor compression and leakdown tested.

Everything came out great, motor is in great shape, they figured 12:1~12:5 cr.

Does it matter if I add a fuel rail or regulator after it is tuned, or should it be done before tuning?

 

swap the pressure regulator. the rail is fine unless you want alittle extra bling