has anyone ever made their own front and rear strut bars? if so how did you do it and how did they work compared to buying them?

 

lol that sounds interesting i figure ppl have tried lulz

in for seeing a self made strut bar

 

haha, nice idea.

just cut a broom in half with some endlinks and a big bolt on each side

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wastedyouth2542 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has anyone ever made their own front and rear strut bars? if so how did you do it and how did they work compared to buying them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will be very very hard pressed to find anyone on here who is capable of actually measuring chassis flex, to determine if one strut bar works better than another in terms of helping prevent flex.

Because of this, you question really isn't answerable, in terms of "how do they work compared to a commercial unit?". You might get "it feels better" type of responses, but nothing concrete.

Interesting question though. I'm just using a notched OEM front upper bar (cut to allow the GC extended upper mounts to clear), and a Comptech lower rear.

Truth be told, even under autocross conditions, I can't tell if my front bar is there or not, even on back to back runs. Either the OEM upper bar does absolutely nothing, or the difference is too minor for this driver to notice.

 

three point is the way to go. either carbing or passwordjdm. i think password jack theres from carbing bec it looks the exact same. with the three point you can actually feel the difference. to answer you question about can you make one...yes people have done it. i wouldnt recommend it though because most likely it will fail. do a little research and you'll find the ones you like.

 

Stitch weld the seams to improve chassis rigidity. IMO, the rear shock tower bar is more critical than the front just due to how the chassis is assembled. On the DC, the firewall supports the front. The rear is essentially open. Honda would agree with me, as they added much chassis stiffening to the rear of the ITR.

 

I actually built my own strut tower bars. The front from scratch. I took a 20ft stick of .035 wall stainless tubing, and made my plates for the firewall, and strut mounts. I then just connected them together, going around the brake master cylinder, and battery.
For the rear I bought a X brace, and modified it. I made two down braces going to the rear, bolting in at the bolts for the rear bumper. Then I went to the front diagnolly, and bolted them to where the front seat belt bolts to. I am going to add another bar to the front behind where it bolts to.

I would post pics, but Im not sure how yet, I'll try to get some on here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stitch weld the seams to improve chassis rigidity. IMO, the rear shock tower bar is more critical than the front just due to how the chassis is assembled. On the DC, the firewall supports the front. The rear is essentially open. Honda would agree with me, as they added much chassis stiffening to the rear of the ITR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would have to agree

 

yeah man, post the pics

 

do it..... but make it clean and dont gie the rest of our teggy's a bad name.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do it..... but make it clean and dont gie the rest of our teggy's a bad name.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is this guy serious?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakeiscool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is this guy serious?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i was serious, was that not something i should have said? relax with the flaming dude. a forum is a place where people put the 2 cents in. that was mine. if you dont like it then dont read it.

 

vision or skunk2 ftw