Speedometer is shaking!
For a while now, my speedometer has been shaking as it moves. It started doing this about 6 months ago, worked perfectly prior.
Last weekend, I went in and pulled the speedometer off to grease it, as tech's suggested it needed lube. So I smothered it with grease and popped it in.
Problem.
Now, when the needle moves it shoots up and down as it's rising. Before, it would vibrate as it rose. Did I grease it too much? What type of grease or lube is used and how much?
I pulled the cable and it's in good shape, it was just dry when I pulled it, but zero damage and perfectly healthy. What's going on? HELP!
Last weekend, I went in and pulled the speedometer off to grease it, as tech's suggested it needed lube. So I smothered it with grease and popped it in.
Problem.
Now, when the needle moves it shoots up and down as it's rising. Before, it would vibrate as it rose. Did I grease it too much? What type of grease or lube is used and how much?
I pulled the cable and it's in good shape, it was just dry when I pulled it, but zero damage and perfectly healthy. What's going on? HELP!
Well they are cable operated and over time the entire system doesn't stay very tight.
Most EF's (and EVERY other car with a cable operated tach or speedo) I've ever seen have a vibrating needle. It's just a byproduct of it's cable operation.
Replacing the cable may not even help the matter - it's probably actually a problem with the internal regulation at the meter.
Does it bother you that bad?
Most EF's (and EVERY other car with a cable operated tach or speedo) I've ever seen have a vibrating needle. It's just a byproduct of it's cable operation.
Replacing the cable may not even help the matter - it's probably actually a problem with the internal regulation at the meter.
Does it bother you that bad?
I have/had the same problem. On my original cluster it did it BAD and then I swapped to a CRX Si cluster and it stopped for a while and now it does it again only not as bad as before with the old cluster.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does it bother you that bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol most of the hondas ive had never had working speedometers..
Does it bother you that bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol most of the hondas ive had never had working speedometers..
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hell mine doesn't even move untill i'm doing at least 15 mph
one day i was changing my tranny oil and i tried to pull the gear to fill it up needless to say that didn't work and i had to fill it through the reverse sensor
but anyway i accidentaly pulled out the actual cable and it never worked right since
one day i was changing my tranny oil and i tried to pull the gear to fill it up needless to say that didn't work and i had to fill it through the reverse sensor
but anyway i accidentaly pulled out the actual cable and it never worked right since
Mine does that. It does it so bad that my speedo needle broke off. So now to judge my speed, I have to look and see where the little line is pointing ( the middle of the needle is still there, but not the needle itself) and estimate. Also when it is cool it sounds like a bunch of crickets live in there. Ha, the random noises of the EF.
Welp! Good news...
I'm happy to report that upon taking it on the freeway, the needle now moves smoothly. My guess is that the inner coil wire needed to smother itself at high rpms to spread the grease evenly.
So, problem solved.
Just a pointer to anyone checking this out, if it doesn't work, the inner coil is probably broken.
If it vibrates, it needs lube; pull it out and grease it. After that, take it on the highway to spin the cable up at high rpm's to "spread it even". ... And bam, needle should work.
I'm happy to report that upon taking it on the freeway, the needle now moves smoothly. My guess is that the inner coil wire needed to smother itself at high rpms to spread the grease evenly.
So, problem solved.
Just a pointer to anyone checking this out, if it doesn't work, the inner coil is probably broken.
If it vibrates, it needs lube; pull it out and grease it. After that, take it on the highway to spin the cable up at high rpm's to "spread it even". ... And bam, needle should work.
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From: Spanish Fork, Utah; El Dorado Hills, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ~sp33~ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remember pouring heaps of WD40 down the tube with the cable in it. Fixed it right up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a good idea as well. You just disconnect the cable that goes to the tranny and pour it down there?
That's a good idea as well. You just disconnect the cable that goes to the tranny and pour it down there?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meandino »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's a good idea as well. You just disconnect the cable that goes to the tranny and pour it down there?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unplug from tranny, pull the coil out a bit, and start spraying. Keep in mind though, that you might have to spray a lot down there, then there's the possibility of parts of the wire toward the front wont get lube.
It's best to pull it out and grease it, pop it back in gently and slowly, connected to the tranny and then take it on the highway and rev it up to 75mph+.
That's a good idea as well. You just disconnect the cable that goes to the tranny and pour it down there?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unplug from tranny, pull the coil out a bit, and start spraying. Keep in mind though, that you might have to spray a lot down there, then there's the possibility of parts of the wire toward the front wont get lube.
It's best to pull it out and grease it, pop it back in gently and slowly, connected to the tranny and then take it on the highway and rev it up to 75mph+.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IwantaGlock18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine does that. It does it so bad that my speedo needle broke off. So now to judge my speed, I have to look and see where the little line is pointing ( the middle of the needle is still there, but not the needle itself) and estimate. Also when it is cool it sounds like a bunch of crickets live in there. Ha, the random noises of the EF.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha My needle snapped in half on my original cluster.
haha My needle snapped in half on my original cluster.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ~sp33~ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remember pouring heaps of WD40 down the tube with the cable in it. Fixed it right up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
FYI WD40 is not a good lubricant as it is a multi purpose product, all it has going for it is massive brand recognition like duck tape (which is also a terrible product).
WD40 is okay to clean parts with but it is not a heavy duty lubricant, if you use it wipe it clean. its okay for lubing up a door hinge or other small items, and I would not use it to lube anything else.
http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/
try a silicone lubricant or any can that is "soley" a lubricant.
and whats with the FV-QR? I see this alot but cant find a definition.
FYI WD40 is not a good lubricant as it is a multi purpose product, all it has going for it is massive brand recognition like duck tape (which is also a terrible product).
WD40 is okay to clean parts with but it is not a heavy duty lubricant, if you use it wipe it clean. its okay for lubing up a door hinge or other small items, and I would not use it to lube anything else.
http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/
try a silicone lubricant or any can that is "soley" a lubricant.
and whats with the FV-QR? I see this alot but cant find a definition.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meandino »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's a good idea as well. You just disconnect the cable that goes to the tranny and pour it down there?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I pulled it from the back of the speedo, and it ran down toward the tranny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
FYI WD40 is not a good lubricant as it is a multi purpose product, all it has going for it is massive brand recognition like duck tape (which is also a terrible product).
WD40 is okay to clean parts with but it is not a heavy duty lubricant, if you use it wipe it clean. its okay for lubing up a door hinge or other small items, and I would not use it to lube anything else.
http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/
try a silicone lubricant or any can that is "soley" a lubricant.
and whats with the FV-QR? I see this alot but cant find a definition.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wd40 worked fine for me, but if theres something better out there then sure, you should use it.
FV-QR
F.ire V.ortex Q.uick R.eply.
It's an add on for HT and some VW website.
That's a good idea as well. You just disconnect the cable that goes to the tranny and pour it down there?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I pulled it from the back of the speedo, and it ran down toward the tranny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
FYI WD40 is not a good lubricant as it is a multi purpose product, all it has going for it is massive brand recognition like duck tape (which is also a terrible product).
WD40 is okay to clean parts with but it is not a heavy duty lubricant, if you use it wipe it clean. its okay for lubing up a door hinge or other small items, and I would not use it to lube anything else.
http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/
try a silicone lubricant or any can that is "soley" a lubricant.
and whats with the FV-QR? I see this alot but cant find a definition.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wd40 worked fine for me, but if theres something better out there then sure, you should use it.
FV-QR
F.ire V.ortex Q.uick R.eply.
It's an add on for HT and some VW website.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
FYI WD40 is not a good lubricant as it is a multi purpose product, all it has going for it is massive brand recognition like duck tape (which is also a terrible product).
WD40 is okay to clean parts with but it is not a heavy duty lubricant, if you use it wipe it clean. its okay for lubing up a door hinge or other small items, and I would not use it to lube anything else.
http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/
try a silicone lubricant or any can that is "soley" a lubricant.
and whats with the FV-QR? I see this alot but cant find a definition.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
how can rag on duct tape. its the greatest stuff ever made next to the microwave and zip ties.
sure it is usefull but you could use any other tape.
the problem with duck tape is when you're done with it, the tape comes off fine but the adhesive isn't coming off without a fight.
try some "gaffers" tape instead
the problem with duck tape is when you're done with it, the tape comes off fine but the adhesive isn't coming off without a fight.
try some "gaffers" tape instead
as crazy as it sounds... I would actually recomend using some MX bike chain Lube... stuff does the job... and wd-40 most deffinitly dosnt! you put that stuff on a bike chain before a race and you better have a new chain on order...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and wd-40 most deffinitly dosnt! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Must've been a complete fluke that it fixed my car.
I'm not saying it's the best, but it definitely got the job done.
Must've been a complete fluke that it fixed my car.
I'm not saying it's the best, but it definitely got the job done.
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