I know it's not welding, but I see that most in here understand proper material selection is better than other forums.

I'm setting up a crankcase evac system via a vacuum pump. While not pulling a huge amount of vacuum, it will pull 2.5"/hg. All I really wanted was to pull some fresh air in, but this worked out well. The problem is that I am having a tough time locating any hose that is flexible enough to make the radius(es) I need. I found the perfect vacuum hose on McMaster, but it's pvc and max temp is 150 degrees which concerns me since all blowby gasses will travel through the hose. Anyone else have any ideas? The hose needs to be 1" min ID. Thanks

And for the sake of having fabricated something -

 

you can use hydro lines, the make sharp turns and dont crink and takes up heat.

 

I can't remember the temp rating on that blue Push-Lock (sp?) hose, but I recall that it was pretty high. I know its rated at the highest temps engine oil will see. I've used it on turbo return lines a couple of times with no issues at all.

Best of luck with your project.

 

Is that a GM air pump? If so, take it apart and remove the filters for a lot more flow.

Ian

 

I did, and yes its a GM replacement.

I just had to see why the air was getting so darn hot while partially closing off the inlet; it was creating a lot of turbulence inside thus heating the air. I removed the foam while I was in there.

Thanks for the ideas

 

Can you make the radiuses metal and the ends hose? I've done with radiator hoses a couple times..

 

I've seen it on aircraft, just didn't know what it was called. This is ideal in case anyone else attempts to vent their crankcase.

Samflex ducting:

http://www.racerpartswholesale...cting

 

What do these pumps come from stock, I have never seen one?

*bookmarks link* thanks greasemonkee

 

00-03 S10 pickup smog pump.

Since the design intent was to only run intermittently, I will be using a 2 ohm resistor to cut the pump output for continuous duty. Full power will be restored to the pump under higher manifold pressure conditions.

Be advised that the current draw at 14.2 V will be around 18 amps without a resistor.

 

The pump will burn up the brush's and quit after little time of use. I had one on my drag car for awhile and it quit on the return road after making the first pass down the track.

 

Did it run continuously? It wasn't designed to run like that. I think most autoparts stores stock them with a lifetime warranty.

 

Cross Reference the part number for the 99-03 Chevy Malibu Smog Pump for the 3.1L Engine to see if they're the same. I had a Malibu a long ways back and that pump ran constantly for 20-30 minutes at a time and it never gave up, it was an OEM piece with 109k on it too. The Malibu must be a CA emissions vehicle to have the pump in place however.

-Froth

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greasemonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did it run continuously? It wasn't designed to run like that. I think most autoparts stores stock them with a lifetime warranty.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yes it did, however it was the heat from the motor that killed it.

 

Welp I guess we'll find out what it does.

The hose worked out decent, it's a little on the thin side though so it can be punctured, but it does bend really tight.

During cruise it stays throttled down to a 5 amp draw so it only runs on max when over 800 Mbars and 3500 rpm or so. The system may defeat it's own purpose by pulling the 15-20 amp alternator vs fighting windage and lesser ring seal - may that be the case, I'll just put a filter on the pump and send a breeze of fresh air through the crankcase omitting the vacuum. Time will tell, thanks guys




Modified by greasemonkee at 3:21 AM 6/22/2008