ok, so I got an h22a which is closed deck, so I figured I would put 88mm ebay high compression pistons in it and not have to worry about resleeving. Now I'm hearing of this frm (fiber reinforced metal) that is on a very small portion of the inside of the cylinder walls. If you bore the motor out, all of the frm is taken right off, and you will have aluminum against aluminum. Has anyone here bored out their h22a, and had any problems with this? If I bore mine out will it be garbage soon???? I really hope I can just bore it and use those pistons, because I do not have an extra 1g laying around for new sleeves. Could someone please help me out here? Thanks, David

 

i personally would not do that. once you remove the FRM you are down to aluminum that is NOT designed to wear as well as the FRM. There is a reason honda uses either iron or FRM sleeves, and nothing else.

If you are not going to boost go get replacement sleeves put in. Domestics have been doing that for decades. They cost a lot less than performance sleeves, and for a non boosted app they work fine.

 

yeah the replacment "liner" type sleeves should cost around $400. Don't just bore and throw some pistons in there, thats not gonna last very long at all.

 

jim justice bored my block out .25 to run my type s pistons. the motor ran fine for 10k miles till i spun a rod bearing. i think the rfm lining is like .3x thick so .25 is the max bore.
btw i dont think jim does this anymore, to time consumming.

 

Ok, so my cylinder walls are scored, but its not too bad. Can I get the block bored out .25, and buy some pistons that are 87.25mm, that arent too expensive. Where could I get them? They dont have to be high compression, I just need to get this thing running. Thanks, Daivd

 

Is a type s piston 87.25???? Everyone on other threads are saying to bore the block out .25, and get a set of type s pistons. I am confused. Someone please help. Thanks, David


Modified by turbo_d at 7:10 AM 5/30/2008

 

The Type S are available in standard and .25 over. If your walls are scored, you probably should bore it.

 

so all I have to do is bring it to the shop and get it bored .25 over, and then get the .25 over pistons? Where can I get these pistons?

 

if you want to get this work done, send your block to Don Flores, user "DonF". dfeeut-at-bellsouth.net

 

I know how to do all the work, I just need to know where I can get oem honda oversized pistons from.

 

honda seems like the most logical place to turn to for OE parts.

 

Do I need 97 and up type sh pistons, because when I look on the internet, there are only type sh. There are no type s pistons. I have an h22a. I am confused as to what the difference is between type s and type sh. What are the best pistons for an h22a.




Modified by turbo_d at 9:28 AM 5/30/2008

 

they dont make genuine honda oversized type S pistons anymore IIRC. if you block is stamped BBBB then get A sized pistons. the FRM has nothing to do with friction, only hoop stress. the coating on the piston is what reduces the friction

 

why would you get pistons that are smaller than the bore they are going in? I thought if you had B size , you had to get that same size? Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex1972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you get pistons that are smaller than the bore they are going in? I thought if you had B size , you had to get that same size? Please correct me if I am wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

A size are bigger than B. A's are 86.993-87.006mm and B's are 86.983-86.996mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo_d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know how to do all the work, I just need to know where I can get oem honda oversized pistons from. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hopefully you realize you need boring/honing machinery and specific stones and procedure to hone a H block. This isn't a diy job. Don Flores and Golden Eagle are about the only ones in the country that are proven in doing this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hopefully you realize you need boring/honing machinery and specific stones and procedure to hone a H block. This isn't a diy job. Don Flores and Golden Eagle are about the only ones in the country that are proven in doing this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aint that the truth. looks to me you're trying to do this under a budget. my advice would be to just save up and do it right the first time. looking at what you're rrying to do, i can tell will only cost you tons more down the road and one too many headaches.

 

I put the OS Type S pistons in my lude... basically the guy doing the "boring" said that's too small of an adjustment to require boring, that's something that should just be honed to size. Worked fine. Plus if you check the Helms manual (shop manual) it doesn't mention anything more than honing, and I believe even then you're not suppose to do more than 5 or 6 cycles (down/up). In general.. FRM is a pain lol

 

Damn I really did not know that!! Thanks for that bluedlude.

 

i found it was easier and cheaper to switch to iron replacement sleeves. that way any old hillbilly machine shop can bore and hone them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i found it was easier and cheaper to switch to iron replacement sleeves. that way any old hillbilly machine shop can bore and hone them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But you then lose the performance advantage of FRM. If you include shipping charges, it's still only $300 to send the block to Don or Golden Eagle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But you then lose the performance advantage of FRM. If you include shipping charges, it's still only $300 to send the block to Don or Golden Eagle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are the specific performance advantages?
The way I see it $300 plus shipping to bore over once to get 87.25mm or spend $400 and be able to overbore to 88mm if you need to, and have the ability to bore locally for $100 per overbore after the sleeves. Sure the iron sleeves will not last as long as the FRM ones, but then again i can put in forged pistons then without a hiccup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What are the specific performance advantages?
The way I see it $300 plus shipping to bore over once to get 87.25mm or spend $400 and be able to overbore to 88mm if you need to, and have the ability to bore locally for $100 per overbore after the sleeves. Sure the iron sleeves will not last as long as the FRM ones, but then again i can put in forged pistons then without a hiccup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Superior heat-transfer. It's not $300 + shipping. It's $300 including shipping. Spending extra money speculating that you may need to do it again is foolish imo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjr162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I put the OS Type S pistons in my lude... basically the guy doing the "boring" said that's too small of an adjustment to require boring, that's something that should just be honed to size. Worked fine. Plus if you check the Helms manual (shop manual) it doesn't mention anything more than honing, and I believe even then you're not suppose to do more than 5 or 6 cycles (down/up). In general.. FRM is a pain lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

The reason you'd bore the cylinder would be to make sure that it was round again. If you hone an eggshaped hole (worn) then you will still have an eggshaped hole when you are done. Boring will true up the cylinder and make it round again. .01" is quite a bit to hone especially when its FRM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Superior heat-transfer. It's not $300 + shipping. It's $300 including shipping. Spending extra money speculating that you may need to do it again is foolish imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so $300 covers shipping there, the hone and shipping back?