Hey guys, sorry i'm a noob but i'm having some problems with my rbc mani on my 2001 civic k20a2. I origionally bought the car with i-h-e and dynoed 157 running very lean. after i put in a wahlboro 255 and vafc and i put a super short filter on it to get cold air i dyno'd 167 and 206 ft. lb. trq. (i need to get a better intake i know).
i put a rbc mani on and i went to 157 hp again. the dyno says i dont have a vacuum leak in my manifold but my sensor says i do, so its obvious my map sensor is messed up. could that be the reason i am turning such low numbers though? any idea's will be helpful...thanks.

 

What exhaust are you running?

 

Have you checked any of the wiring to the MAP sensor?

There have been cases of vacuum leaks because of the adapter. Have you actually checked for leaks?

 

I had the same problem it was my rbc adapter that had vacum leak. i would check that out and what engine manage are you using? 157whp is wayy too low for an a2

 

i have a dc shorty header...(still have cats) and a 2.25 catback exhuast, not sure what brand i bought the whole exhuast used. i'm running type s ecu with a vafc piggyback (i agree kpro is the way to go but i'm cheapo) and i just plugged up the extra holes on the adapter and tested manifold pressure using my shops dyno. Their dyno read that i had full pressure and was not leaking,,,, but my map sensor was reading that i had a leak and was not at full pressure. so i ordered a new map sensor. i have a cheap intake i made, its about a three inch pipe with a filter lol. i have to buy a new one and i'm sure it will help my numbers alot. any idea's on what intake to go with?

 

also, does it matter where i run the map sensor. i have a spot for it on the throttle body and for it on the RBC Manifold. sorry to be a tard but i'm saddened by my extremely low numbers and poor running condition lol.

 

still, stock numbers for a stock k20a2 is way higher than 157whp. you should be around 180-190

 

Hang on here... I'm rereading your initial statement, where you mention you have 167hp and 206trq? Did you miss label those? Are you really making 206hp, and 167trq? That would make much more sense.

It really helps to have the MAP sensor at the manifold, but you can run it else where. I run mine about 10 or so inches away, with a decent sized hose to it, to make sure it can see a correct amount of vacuum.

If I were you, I would look at your adapter, and check all of the gaskets. Also, make sure you took off all of the remaining material from the old gaskets, too.

 

no i'm putting down 200 plus trq. its weird i know i'm trying to figure it out. I'm not running on a dynojet either that are rumored to not throw correct numbers. i'm running on a dynometer at Modified in Indianapolis, IN. ran tons of times because were all trying to figure out whats up. all of the old gasket materials were razor'd off. there are a couple extra holes in the adapter plate which we actually plugged completely with a bolt and the other with a nozzel so we could read manifold pressure from the dyno.... and it says its not leaking at all. my map sensor says it is, so i'm assuming my map sensor is the reason why we cant get a decent tune out of my car. i'm getting my new sensor and a retune here in about two hours and i'll post what happens. lets prayer i turn normal numbers this time.

 

Those numbers make no sense at all.. Even tho you can't really compare dyno runs from separate places, I would get it dynoed somewhere else and see what # it puts out. How does the car feel??

 

a k20a2 with more tq than hp NA? yea... not in a short stroke, high revving motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Curiouz_G &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a k20a2 with more tq than hp NA? yea... not in a short stroke, high revving motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly. there is no way you're making 206 tq.

 

lol i was reading 206lbtq like wtf? impossible...on a stock type s ecu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwcok20em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a dc shorty header...(still have cats) and a 2.25 catback exhuast, not sure what brand i bought the whole exhuast used. i'm running type s ecu with a vafc piggyback (i agree kpro is the way to go but i'm cheapo) and i just plugged up the extra holes on the adapter and tested manifold pressure using my shops dyno. Their dyno read that i had full pressure and was not leaking,,,, but my map sensor was reading that i had a leak and was not at full pressure. so i ordered a new map sensor. i have a cheap intake i made, its about a three inch pipe with a filter lol. i have to buy a new one and i'm sure it will help my numbers alot. any idea's on what intake to go with?</TD></TR></TABLE>


2.25in. cat-back, is the source of your problem. With the amount of air-flow that the K-series heads can develop, you're really restricting the amount of hp potential with that small of an exhaust. Run a 2.75 - 3.00in exhaust and watch the numbers jump.

 

And Get Kpro and watch the numbers fly.

 

when he was getting my torque number he did the wrong gear pull. he did it in fourth instead of fifth. my new horse is 200 and my torque is low 170's. it was my map sensor. car ran great for two days and then started missing out really bad though lol. figures. i'm thinking i fouled some plugs. god knows though.

 

sorry to be a total tard but i'm used to the prehistoric dynosaur we all lovingly refer to as H22. i was looking at my plugs and wires and the k20 does not have plugs.... they have something i have not seen before. do these "modules" need to be replaced when doing a tune up? and for you all motor k20 enthusiasts what spark plugs do you use? i'm pretty confident it could just use a tune up... its missing out pretty bad right now.

 

Those "modules" are the coils. K series engines run Coil on Plug. No, you shouldn't need to replace the coils.

 

what sort of spark plugs do you have.

 

things are a little frustrating with my car right now. trying to just get it running smoothly for more then a few days. is it even possible to be driving and all of the sudden your plug fouls so you start missing it. i was driving and it was fine then i turned a corner and it just started loading up. takes forever to start rolling, anytime i accelerate it just loads up and barely goes. after i reach a certain speed and hold it it sounds fine,,,,but anytime i give it gas it just loads up and sounds like it misses out. any help or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwcok20em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">things are a little frustrating with my car right now. trying to just get it running smoothly for more then a few days. is it even possible to be driving and all of the sudden your plug fouls so you start missing it. i was driving and it was fine then i turned a corner and it just started loading up. takes forever to start rolling, anytime i accelerate it just loads up and barely goes. after i reach a certain speed and hold it it sounds fine,,,,but anytime i give it gas it just loads up and sounds like it misses out. any help or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly that sounds more like a wiring, possibly a timing issue.

 

I'm assuming you have an em2 k20. have you had any track time. i'm curious around what numbers mine will run, after i get my issues resolved that is.

 

he has a k24.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwcok20em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming you have an em2 k20. have you had any track time. i'm curious around what numbers mine will run, after i get my issues resolved that is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't do drag racing, so you won't see a 1/4 mile time from me.