I replaced my front disk brakes. I had the rotor turned, and put new pads on. Ever since I get a bad jerking side to side when I use my brakes. I have pulled them apart several times, cleaned them and each time, they work great but after several lights and stop signs everything starts to shake again. This shaking only happens when I use the brakes, and I get a loud squeal when I am not on the brakes. The wheel bearings seem to be fine...no play and with the calibriers off, the front wheels spin freely with no sound.

So any ideas???? The calibers are not frozen, being I am able to push them back. It seems that the shop that turned my rotors maybe didn't do them right?? Have you ever seen this happen before. Any other suggestions to check...

Recently I cleaned them, flushed the brake system fluid until I got clean fluid out..and then bleed them also...

Thx for the help

 

I had the same problem. Did you use air tools to put everything back together? If so, don't use them. Sometimes when you use air tools to put the wheels back on... you can bend the rotors if you hold it at one certain point for too long.

Other than that try lubing all moving parts.

Good luck.

 

Try new rotors. That might be the problem.

 

Your Rotors Are Warped, If You Took It To A Shop Then They May Have Warped When The Used Air Tools, Because Older Rotors And Air Power = Warped Rotors. lol. I Had The Same Problem. So Best Bet Is To Get New Ones Of Go To The Junk Yard And Get Stock Ones And Put Them On With Hand Tools, And Try Not To Bang ON Nothing And You Should Be Straight. Also Another Thing That Warps Rotor Is If You Have Been Driving For A Fairly Long Period Of TimeAnd Rotors Get Really Hott And You Get Water On Them Like A Puddle, Or Washing Your Car Then That Will Do It Too..

Hope My Info Was HelpFull

 

check the nut on the axel, my was a bit loose, now my bearings are out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by new_climber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and I get a loud squeal when I am not on the brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats odd...

id look into that.

check the caliper bolts, the 17mm head ones that bolt to the knuckle. check if theres a washer there. if not, the bolt may be digging into the rotor.

funny thing is that i dont remember a washer supposed to be there when i do my brake jobs, but i dunno, ive heard others say this.

 

yes, I did use air tools....

With that said, i will get a new set of rotors. will something from a parts shop be OK. I hate to pay the extra at the dealership. I will also call around to the local junk yards, but i would rather just get new ones.

Thx for the help

 

I have double and tripled checked everything is tight. The 17mm nut that holds the calibrate BARCKET on does have a lock washer.

It is a heat related thing, being when I first start driving they work find..and quit. After stopping a couple of times...the problem happenes..

 

you should get new rotor, power slot ones are good but they cost. also new break pads...

 

tie rod ends maybe??? check that out dude you will never know..cause my car used to do something similar to that and it was the tie rods..

 

btw, if the brakes are shaking the whole car and youre feeling it in the steering wheel, consider the steering rack bushing needs to be replaced as well.

even warped rotors should just be a mild pulsing if everything else is tight.

 

i'm surprised anyone turns rotors anymore...you can usually get a new rotor for about 20 bucks.
while you're at the auto parts store, get yourself a torque wrench...i think mine was also 20 bucks...it's the best tool to have as so many things require proper torque.
simply putting the wheels and lug nuts on without proper torque can cause your brake woes

 

People turn rotors because to turn a rotor is only $8-10.

A new rotor is $20, but has more than likely been stacked on its side at the parts store and may not be true.

I've seen a bunch of "new" rotors end up having to be turned because they aren't true.

 

fair enough...i guess i've just had better luck with the new rotors. just remember they can only be turned so much...too thin and they warp faster. IMO, more people have problems from not torquing the lugs to spec

 

Wow. And no one mentioned the fact that a Banshee SCREAMS, not SHAKES.
LOL.....

 

im a mechanic, and what happenes when you cut (turn) rotors, they become thinnner than factory spec.. applying the brakes causes friction, friction causes heat, heat softens metal...... thats when they WARP.. just get new rotors dude.. honda rotors are so thin compared to so many cars out here that one cut can actually do them damage.. (especially if whoever cut them didnt get a smooth enough cut the first time around.. sometimes shops will turn a rotor as many times as they have to in order to get a smooth cut, meaning no grooves.. and 9 out of 10 shops never use the proper micrometer tools to measure rotor width).. sorry for the exccessive post guys lol..