Advice on a semi-build, TYpe R owners please chime in
Yes, I've searched in the all motor forum but I didn't find what I was looking for, so I'm turning to you guys for some advice.
I was wanting to know what items I should purchase next.
My Goal is 200-210whp.
I want to leave the bottom end alone
I currently have
3" SRI BPI+K&N
Hytech Anti-Reversion Header
T1R 2.5 Exhaust
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears
Tuned on Crome Pro 168whp 123wtq on a DynoDynamic. I received the cam gears after the car was tuned so the tune is w/o cam gear.
Looking to spend 1500.
Would skunk2 pro2 cams be overcamming? I was told skunk2stage2 will do the job. I've heard about RM cams but I'm not sure if those cams will suit my little build. I will also be upgrading the valvetrain with Skunk2 HI Comp valves/springs/retainers. Should I go with steel or titanium? Has anyone had any trouble with these skunk2 products? Im also getting a mugen HG, hondata IMG, ARP headstuds/bolts.
Thanx in advance
Modified by WheaMyRyceGo at 12:33 AM 5/29/2008
I was wanting to know what items I should purchase next.
My Goal is 200-210whp.
I want to leave the bottom end alone
I currently have
3" SRI BPI+K&N
Hytech Anti-Reversion Header
T1R 2.5 Exhaust
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears
Tuned on Crome Pro 168whp 123wtq on a DynoDynamic. I received the cam gears after the car was tuned so the tune is w/o cam gear.
Looking to spend 1500.
Would skunk2 pro2 cams be overcamming? I was told skunk2stage2 will do the job. I've heard about RM cams but I'm not sure if those cams will suit my little build. I will also be upgrading the valvetrain with Skunk2 HI Comp valves/springs/retainers. Should I go with steel or titanium? Has anyone had any trouble with these skunk2 products? Im also getting a mugen HG, hondata IMG, ARP headstuds/bolts.
Thanx in advance
Modified by WheaMyRyceGo at 12:33 AM 5/29/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WheaMyRyceGo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, I've searched in the all motor forum but I didn't find what I was looking for, so I'm turning to you guys for some advice.
I was wanting to know what items I should purchase next.
My Goal is 200-210whp.
I want to leave the bottom end alone
I currently have
3" SRI BPI+K&N
Hytech Anti-Reversion Header
T1R 2.5 Exhaust
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears
Tuned on Crome Pro 168whp 123wtq on a DynoDynamic. I received the cam gears after the car was tuned so the tune is w/o cam gear.
Looking to spend 1500.
Would skunk2 pro2 cams be overcamming? I was told skunk2stage2 will do the job. I've heard about RM cams but I'm not sure if those cams will suit my little build. I will also be upgrading the valvetrain with Skunk2 HI Comp valves/springs/retainers. Should I go with steel or titanium? Has anyone had any trouble with these skunk2 products? Im also getting a mugen HG, hondata IMG, ARP headstuds/bolts.
Thanx in advance
Modified by WheaMyRyceGo at 12:33 AM 5/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pro 2's IMO would definitely be way to much. You want to keep stock bottom end, and that won't be enough compression to really use the Pro 2 cams. I would look into other things at this point if your looking for 210 WHP.
My build is as follows and I'm HOPING to get 210...
JDM P30 pistons (higher CR) Standard bore
Mugen HG (don't put this in, unless you already have the head off, not worth it to pull head just to install)
Stage 2 Port and Polished head with combustion chambers re-shaped (better quench for P30 pistons)
Supertech valves
Supertech valve springs
Stock OEM retainers (new set)
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams (and believe me, they are pretty nasty, can't imagine Pro 2's)
Skunk2 Pro cam gears
Hondata IM gasket
Mugen Intake
SMSP header
Test pipe
Mugen Twin Loop exhaust.
RC 310 injectors
Was on Hondata, but changing to Neptune next Wednesday.
I'm looking for around the 210 WHP mark. In your case, I think you might want to look into head work, or internal work. While you can put in some S2S2 cams and make "better" power, I'm not sure that will get you to your goals.
Hope that helps some. I'll have dyno numbers next week.
I was wanting to know what items I should purchase next.
My Goal is 200-210whp.
I want to leave the bottom end alone
I currently have
3" SRI BPI+K&N
Hytech Anti-Reversion Header
T1R 2.5 Exhaust
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears
Tuned on Crome Pro 168whp 123wtq on a DynoDynamic. I received the cam gears after the car was tuned so the tune is w/o cam gear.
Looking to spend 1500.
Would skunk2 pro2 cams be overcamming? I was told skunk2stage2 will do the job. I've heard about RM cams but I'm not sure if those cams will suit my little build. I will also be upgrading the valvetrain with Skunk2 HI Comp valves/springs/retainers. Should I go with steel or titanium? Has anyone had any trouble with these skunk2 products? Im also getting a mugen HG, hondata IMG, ARP headstuds/bolts.
Thanx in advance
Modified by WheaMyRyceGo at 12:33 AM 5/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pro 2's IMO would definitely be way to much. You want to keep stock bottom end, and that won't be enough compression to really use the Pro 2 cams. I would look into other things at this point if your looking for 210 WHP.
My build is as follows and I'm HOPING to get 210...
JDM P30 pistons (higher CR) Standard bore
Mugen HG (don't put this in, unless you already have the head off, not worth it to pull head just to install)
Stage 2 Port and Polished head with combustion chambers re-shaped (better quench for P30 pistons)
Supertech valves
Supertech valve springs
Stock OEM retainers (new set)
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams (and believe me, they are pretty nasty, can't imagine Pro 2's)
Skunk2 Pro cam gears
Hondata IM gasket
Mugen Intake
SMSP header
Test pipe
Mugen Twin Loop exhaust.
RC 310 injectors
Was on Hondata, but changing to Neptune next Wednesday.
I'm looking for around the 210 WHP mark. In your case, I think you might want to look into head work, or internal work. While you can put in some S2S2 cams and make "better" power, I'm not sure that will get you to your goals.
Hope that helps some. I'll have dyno numbers next week.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Pro 2's IMO would definitely be way to much. You want to keep stock bottom end, and that won't be enough compression to really use the Pro 2 cams. I would look into other things at this point if your looking for 210 WHP.
My build is as follows and I'm HOPING to get 210...
JDM P30 pistons (higher CR) Standard bore
Mugen HG (don't put this in, unless you already have the head off, not worth it to pull head just to install)
Stage 2 Port and Polished head with combustion chambers re-shaped (better quench for P30 pistons)
Supertech valves
Supertech valve springs
Stock OEM retainers (new set)
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams (and believe me, they are pretty nasty, can't imagine Pro 2's)
Skunk2 Pro cam gears
Hondata IM gasket
Mugen Intake
SMSP header
Test pipe
Mugen Twin Loop exhaust.
RC 310 injectors
Was on Hondata, but changing to Neptune next Wednesday.
I'm looking for around the 210 WHP mark. In your case, I think you might want to look into head work, or internal work. While you can put in some S2S2 cams and make "better" power, I'm not sure that will get you to your goals.
Hope that helps some. I'll have dyno numbers next week.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanx Dave. Which cam would be better for my goal? Skunk2Pro1 or Skunk2Stage2. I was going to go ahead and install the Mugen HG when I have the head taken off to install the valves/spring/retainers/cams. I was thinking about a mild port and polish also but I wasn't sure. Would this change some of the items that im purchasing?
Pro 2's IMO would definitely be way to much. You want to keep stock bottom end, and that won't be enough compression to really use the Pro 2 cams. I would look into other things at this point if your looking for 210 WHP.
My build is as follows and I'm HOPING to get 210...
JDM P30 pistons (higher CR) Standard bore
Mugen HG (don't put this in, unless you already have the head off, not worth it to pull head just to install)
Stage 2 Port and Polished head with combustion chambers re-shaped (better quench for P30 pistons)
Supertech valves
Supertech valve springs
Stock OEM retainers (new set)
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams (and believe me, they are pretty nasty, can't imagine Pro 2's)
Skunk2 Pro cam gears
Hondata IM gasket
Mugen Intake
SMSP header
Test pipe
Mugen Twin Loop exhaust.
RC 310 injectors
Was on Hondata, but changing to Neptune next Wednesday.
I'm looking for around the 210 WHP mark. In your case, I think you might want to look into head work, or internal work. While you can put in some S2S2 cams and make "better" power, I'm not sure that will get you to your goals.
Hope that helps some. I'll have dyno numbers next week.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanx Dave. Which cam would be better for my goal? Skunk2Pro1 or Skunk2Stage2. I was going to go ahead and install the Mugen HG when I have the head taken off to install the valves/spring/retainers/cams. I was thinking about a mild port and polish also but I wasn't sure. Would this change some of the items that im purchasing?
Pro 1 won't idle like stock, I can tell you that much. And IMO I wouldn't go Pro 1 unless you do more head work. I had the S2S2's and they are a great cam.
If you are thinking of porting and polishing, you might step up to the Pro 1's, but they are some serious cams. Very lobe'y at idle.
Would a P&P change items you are purchasing? I don't think I understand what your asking.
If you are thinking of porting and polishing, you might step up to the Pro 1's, but they are some serious cams. Very lobe'y at idle.
Would a P&P change items you are purchasing? I don't think I understand what your asking.
Ok I don't want my idle to change. So that pretty much made my decision! When I said would P&P change the items i was purchasing i meant, If i got a P&P SHOULD I get a more aggressive cam, but since it would only be a mild P&P should I just stick to the s2s2 instead of going into the pro series
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WheaMyRyceGo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.....My Goal is 200-210whp.
I want to leave the bottom end alone
Looking to spend 1500.Modified by WheaMyRyceGo at 12:33 AM 5/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>"I want to leave the bottom end alone"...Since you are going the NA route, this factory will limit you to a certain mods that you can do to reach the 220-210whp goal. Without touching the bottom end, Skunk2 stage 2 with flat valves and 2 layers gasket and careful tunning may get you close to your mark. If you go with higher compression pistons, you will definitely get there.
I want to leave the bottom end alone
Looking to spend 1500.Modified by WheaMyRyceGo at 12:33 AM 5/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>"I want to leave the bottom end alone"...Since you are going the NA route, this factory will limit you to a certain mods that you can do to reach the 220-210whp goal. Without touching the bottom end, Skunk2 stage 2 with flat valves and 2 layers gasket and careful tunning may get you close to your mark. If you go with higher compression pistons, you will definitely get there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW-ITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"I want to leave the bottom end alone"...Since you are going the NA route, this factory will limit you to a certain mods that you can do to reach the 220-210whp goal. Without touching the bottom end, Skunk2 stage 2 with flat valves and 2 layers gasket and careful tunning may get you close to your mark. If you go with higher compression pistons, you will definitely get there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was told putting on the mugen headgasket will put me in risk with clearance, can anyone elaborate on this?
Also, what do you guys think about the SUperTech valvetrain?
I was told putting on the mugen headgasket will put me in risk with clearance, can anyone elaborate on this?
Also, what do you guys think about the SUperTech valvetrain?
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I think 210whp should be achievable with the Skunk 2 Stage 2's. THe supertech valvetrain is reputable and should work well with the cams.
My advice however is to stay with the Skunk valvetrain - i say this only becuase another manufacturer (which i won't name) refused to repair my near new cams becuase i used a diffferent valvetrain from that recommended.
Any clearance issues with the mugen headgasket should be easily sorted out with timing adjustments, especially if you're keeping the OEM pistons.
Can i just ask if you're pleased with the power your current setup is producing? To me, given you have a hytech header, exhaust and intake, as well as a tune, i would expect you to be well over the 170 mark already. Maybe its just a low reading dyno, i'm not sure...
But looking at your goal of 210 - i would be surprised if $1,500 can get you another 40whp. I would consider throwing in some high comp pistons on top of cams+valvetrain.
Good luck
My advice however is to stay with the Skunk valvetrain - i say this only becuase another manufacturer (which i won't name) refused to repair my near new cams becuase i used a diffferent valvetrain from that recommended.
Any clearance issues with the mugen headgasket should be easily sorted out with timing adjustments, especially if you're keeping the OEM pistons.
Can i just ask if you're pleased with the power your current setup is producing? To me, given you have a hytech header, exhaust and intake, as well as a tune, i would expect you to be well over the 170 mark already. Maybe its just a low reading dyno, i'm not sure...
But looking at your goal of 210 - i would be surprised if $1,500 can get you another 40whp. I would consider throwing in some high comp pistons on top of cams+valvetrain.
Good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WheaMyRyceGo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told putting on the mugen headgasket will put me in risk with clearance, can anyone elaborate on this?.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aussiecivicek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.....Any clearance issues with the mugen headgasket should be easily sorted out with timing adjustments, especially if you're keeping the OEM pistons. .....</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aussiecivicek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.....Any clearance issues with the mugen headgasket should be easily sorted out with timing adjustments, especially if you're keeping the OEM pistons. .....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you for your response.
The reason why I didn't want to go with the skunk2 valvetrain was because a local shop has ran it in some of their cars and it crapped out on them. They have since then gone with Supertech and Ferrea and haven't had any trouble yet.
I am well over the 170whp mark but I'm still not pleased. I thought I would be done modifying the car after the tune, but as most people, its hard to stop. Im wanting to throw in some cams and see what it can do. Hopefully then I'll be pleased.
The reason why I didn't want to go with the skunk2 valvetrain was because a local shop has ran it in some of their cars and it crapped out on them. They have since then gone with Supertech and Ferrea and haven't had any trouble yet.
I am well over the 170whp mark but I'm still not pleased. I thought I would be done modifying the car after the tune, but as most people, its hard to stop. Im wanting to throw in some cams and see what it can do. Hopefully then I'll be pleased.
If you want the better peak numbers, head porting will go a long way towards reaching your goal.
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