Best set up for 190-195whp NA?
My 01 ITR is near stock after 7 years and I want 190-195 whp NA. I currently have a DC header and Comptech cai. I dyno'd my car ages ago and I think I pulled 170 whp (weak itr?
)
What would be the most efficient way for me to reach my HP goal?
Toda headers? Toda cams? Springs? Retainers? Cam gears? Tuning?
)What would be the most efficient way for me to reach my HP goal?
Toda headers? Toda cams? Springs? Retainers? Cam gears? Tuning?
I put down 169.9 with a J's intake, stock cast iron manifold, and 2.25 test pipe, 2.5 b pipe to a stock JDM ITR axle back.
I've since put a JDM 4-1 header and 2.5" SMSP cat on, and hopefully can get the S200 Dave B has, and see what I can do with those mods and a tune. If I can be in the mid 180s with that, quality parts would put me in the 190s.
I've since put a JDM 4-1 header and 2.5" SMSP cat on, and hopefully can get the S200 Dave B has, and see what I can do with those mods and a tune. If I can be in the mid 180s with that, quality parts would put me in the 190s.
i put down 174whp and 123wtq on a dynojet with hytech header/bpi stack K&N/t1r 2.5 exhaust
with a crome pro tune i put down 168whp and 123wtq on a dyno dynamic, i heard that dyno reads from 10-15% lower so i should be putting out 185whp give or take
throw in some cam gears and you can make about ~3whp
anyways gl with ur build
with a crome pro tune i put down 168whp and 123wtq on a dyno dynamic, i heard that dyno reads from 10-15% lower so i should be putting out 185whp give or take
throw in some cam gears and you can make about ~3whp
anyways gl with ur build
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 869
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From: Orange County, California, USA
-J's racing intake, ported JDM ITR 4-1 98 Spec header, T1R Test pipe, T1R Full 2.5" Catback Exhaust. Blox B cams, full portflow valve springs and retainers and stock B16 valves, stock cam gears
-NON ported B16 on B18C5 stock bottom end
---194 whp on Pro Street Import's DYNOJET Tuned on Crome---
very simple.
(type R TB and skunk2 IM, so essentially a full stock type R motor with a slightly less flowing head)
-NON ported B16 on B18C5 stock bottom end
---194 whp on Pro Street Import's DYNOJET Tuned on Crome---
very simple.
(type R TB and skunk2 IM, so essentially a full stock type R motor with a slightly less flowing head)
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See this response...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2310247
As for my other car, no cams and I'm at 192 WHP. I do have a very VERY free flowing (and obnoxious SP exhaust)
Motor has around 15k on it, so still fresh. Stock bottom end and bore
Mugen intake
SMSP Header
SMSP Race exhuast
Hondata IM gasket
Mugen HG
PS and AC removed
Just that and I'm at 192 WHP but as Jon D mentioned... be prepared to spend a TON on minimal parts.
The header alone was around 1200, intake around 800. That's 2k in 2 parts. LOL
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2310247
As for my other car, no cams and I'm at 192 WHP. I do have a very VERY free flowing (and obnoxious SP exhaust)
Motor has around 15k on it, so still fresh. Stock bottom end and bore
Mugen intake
SMSP Header
SMSP Race exhuast
Hondata IM gasket
Mugen HG
PS and AC removed
Just that and I'm at 192 WHP but as Jon D mentioned... be prepared to spend a TON on minimal parts.
The header alone was around 1200, intake around 800. That's 2k in 2 parts. LOL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm at 196whp with just bolt-ons, cam gears and a good tune on an internally bone stock C5
.</TD></TR></TABLE>I would love to see the gragh of your power band.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>I would love to see the gragh of your power band.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tunerauti »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and yes i would go with the hondata... s200 or 300 onlt tho.. s100 is ****</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have evidence to back this up? S200 is nearly the same as S100 just with some additions (shift light, 2-step launch, etc.). S300 is equally similar, with only a different "burning" technique or whatever you want to call it (no emulator crap needed). I've been using an S100 for like 4 years with no issues whatsoever. S300 would make it easier on my tuner, but I wouldn't make more power or anything.
Do you have evidence to back this up? S200 is nearly the same as S100 just with some additions (shift light, 2-step launch, etc.). S300 is equally similar, with only a different "burning" technique or whatever you want to call it (no emulator crap needed). I've been using an S100 for like 4 years with no issues whatsoever. S300 would make it easier on my tuner, but I wouldn't make more power or anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeL SLo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What mods do you have?
Doesn't SMSP take awhile for their products to be built and I think you have to shave your block for the header to fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, only about 6 weeks or so, and for for a hand built product, that's not so bad.
As for shaving the block for the header to fit... nope. While some of his headers you do need to change to the GS-R trans brace (or run none at all) there is no "shaving" of any engine parts to make it work.
Doesn't SMSP take awhile for their products to be built and I think you have to shave your block for the header to fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, only about 6 weeks or so, and for for a hand built product, that's not so bad.
As for shaving the block for the header to fit... nope. While some of his headers you do need to change to the GS-R trans brace (or run none at all) there is no "shaving" of any engine parts to make it work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeL SLo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What would be the most cost efficient way for me to reach my HP goal?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
NOS. done!
but the f'realz answer is that you need to spend some money on a good tune and some quality parts. 190 whp without opening up the engine is pretty rare unless you have a very healthy engine. once you open up the engine, you are entering a world of troubles...its like the domino effect. new cams means new valvesprings, new valvesprings means pulling the head, pulling the head means new headstuds...and youll probably want to do a valve job or some type of port work while the head is off, and then youll need cam gears...and then youll want your throttle body bored...it wont EVER stop.
What would be the most cost efficient way for me to reach my HP goal?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
NOS. done!
but the f'realz answer is that you need to spend some money on a good tune and some quality parts. 190 whp without opening up the engine is pretty rare unless you have a very healthy engine. once you open up the engine, you are entering a world of troubles...its like the domino effect. new cams means new valvesprings, new valvesprings means pulling the head, pulling the head means new headstuds...and youll probably want to do a valve job or some type of port work while the head is off, and then youll need cam gears...and then youll want your throttle body bored...it wont EVER stop.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A quality I/H/E and tune will get you there, however you are going to drop a lot of coin.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word.
OP, I think I'm close to your mark with only intake header and exhaust.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word.
OP, I think I'm close to your mark with only intake header and exhaust.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOHN WAYNE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but the f'realz answer is that you need to spend some money on a good tune and some quality parts. 190 whp without opening up the engine is pretty rare unless you have a very healthy engine. once you open up the engine, you are entering a world of troubles...its like the domino effect. new cams means new valvesprings, new valvesprings means pulling the head, pulling the head means new headstuds...and youll probably want to do a valve job or some type of port work while the head is off, and then youll need cam gears...and then youll want your throttle body bored...it wont EVER stop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is exactly why high quality bolt ons on a stock motor outweighs sinking some coin into your head. Although it isn't discussed often as the smarter choice, when you start adding up the money you spend dollar/hp ratio IMO it makes the most sense just to drop the coin on high end I/H/E. Just my .02 . Lets not forget that at the end of the day you still have a bone stock motor, which to me is important.
but the f'realz answer is that you need to spend some money on a good tune and some quality parts. 190 whp without opening up the engine is pretty rare unless you have a very healthy engine. once you open up the engine, you are entering a world of troubles...its like the domino effect. new cams means new valvesprings, new valvesprings means pulling the head, pulling the head means new headstuds...and youll probably want to do a valve job or some type of port work while the head is off, and then youll need cam gears...and then youll want your throttle body bored...it wont EVER stop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is exactly why high quality bolt ons on a stock motor outweighs sinking some coin into your head. Although it isn't discussed often as the smarter choice, when you start adding up the money you spend dollar/hp ratio IMO it makes the most sense just to drop the coin on high end I/H/E. Just my .02 . Lets not forget that at the end of the day you still have a bone stock motor, which to me is important.
my ITR with CAI,Banged up dc sport 4-1,and test pipe with hyper med exhaust put down 171whp that same thing tuned on the s100+cam gears put down 183whp, now im running JDM ITR header and stock ITR axle back and bpi stack so i dont know where it is now....in my opinion theres no reason in spending tons of money in high end I/H/E, for that just turbo it and youll be way over 195
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One point to note in all of this...
Dyno numbers don't mean a THING!!!
Different conditions such as elevation, humidity, what type of dyno used... all yield different results.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good point, numbers dont mean anything. they just help people feel better about all the money they spent
Dyno numbers don't mean a THING!!!
Different conditions such as elevation, humidity, what type of dyno used... all yield different results.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good point, numbers dont mean anything. they just help people feel better about all the money they spent
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOHN WAYNE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
numbers dont mean anything. they just help people feel better about all the money they spent
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx(gator) »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...stop trying to be supras y0!!1!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hrm.... this brings a certain forum d-bag to mind.
numbers dont mean anything. they just help people feel better about all the money they spent
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx(gator) »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...stop trying to be supras y0!!1!
</TD></TR></TABLE>hrm.... this brings a certain forum d-bag to mind.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is exactly why high quality bolt ons on a stock motor outweighs sinking some coin into your head. Although it isn't discussed often as the smarter choice, when you start adding up the money you spend dollar/hp ratio IMO it makes the most sense just to drop the coin on high end I/H/E. Just my .02 . Lets not forget that at the end of the day you still have a bone stock motor, which to me is important. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It is so easy to forget the basics sometimes.
This is exactly why high quality bolt ons on a stock motor outweighs sinking some coin into your head. Although it isn't discussed often as the smarter choice, when you start adding up the money you spend dollar/hp ratio IMO it makes the most sense just to drop the coin on high end I/H/E. Just my .02 . Lets not forget that at the end of the day you still have a bone stock motor, which to me is important. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It is so easy to forget the basics sometimes.



