obd-1 d16z6 swap, code 9
i did a z6 swap in a friend's ex civic sedan over the past few days. its on a p28, jumper harness off of ebay, swapped out the plugs for the injectors, dizzy, and other stuff. to the best of my knowledge, everything is right, but the car runs a code 9, which i searched and found out to be the #1 cylinder position sensor. located in the dizzy.
first thing i did was check my wiring to the diz. all the colors are matched up except for the thicker white which goes to a yellow/green. the crimps are solid and everything too. i dont have a reason to suspect the distributor itself to be bad, but we swapped for a known good one anyway, and it ran the same and had the same code.
im just wondering if any of you have had a similar problem and maybe its a ground in the harness or something, because i dont think the distributor is messed up at all and i cant find anything wrong with my wiring. thanks for the help.
first thing i did was check my wiring to the diz. all the colors are matched up except for the thicker white which goes to a yellow/green. the crimps are solid and everything too. i dont have a reason to suspect the distributor itself to be bad, but we swapped for a known good one anyway, and it ran the same and had the same code.
im just wondering if any of you have had a similar problem and maybe its a ground in the harness or something, because i dont think the distributor is messed up at all and i cant find anything wrong with my wiring. thanks for the help.
You crimped the wires, but didn't solder them? That "could" be giving you trouble. But still look for bad harness and engine grounds, if you don't think it's the dizzy.
yeah. the only way i know to check would be to cut out all the connectors and just twist the wires together. that way you know there is contact... but idk. maybe i did something wrong, because when i did a mini-me on my crx a couple years, i wired it the same way and got the same code. i forgot all about it until searching brought up my own post. but i really dont understand what i could have done wrong. all the colors match up except that one thick white one.
Trace the #1cyl positon sensor back to your jumper, its most likely loose or has a broken connection somewhere.I've seen this a few times.
The dizzy wiring is correct despite the barbaric crimping method.
The dizzy wiring is correct despite the barbaric crimping method.
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the connections are now soulderd and heat shrinked, still the same code. swapped the two white ones just to see, but the car wouldnt start, so the wiring is right.
thevtechnician, which color is for the cyl sensor?
thevtechnician, which color is for the cyl sensor?
i had the same issue about a week ago if its not the DIZZY then its your wiring...wiring for sure...everything on mine was wired correct the sad part was after 2 months of playing with the wire harness it was the orange and white not having that wire SHIELD thing...or you prolly switch the blue and green wires
wire shield? the black thing that goes around some of the other wires? how does that do anything? and how did you fix it? the car does run... so i dont think any wires are wrong. i can double check, but but idk.
you might think that your wiring is perfect yeah i thought mine was too mine ran great started up fine, some guy redid my wiring(wiring = headache for me)added those wire shield thing the code went away now drives and idle perfect, anyways he told me the wire may look correct and fine but you dont know what happen underneath those plastic vinyl it may be cracked inside or around the pins...if you changed/tried a different ecu and dizzy then your problem left should be wiring...unless you have a reason to believe your timing is off.
i still dont get what he/you re-did to fix it. does the plastic/vinyl sheath over the groups of wires do something? cause i thought it was just protection. the wires themselves are still in their conduits and the colors are matched up right... so you think its a broken wire under the conduit?
what happen when wires start heating up and drying? they crack right? the wire harness on your car is prolly 15+yrs. follow the code 9 wires(cyl pos #1) and go from there....i cant really explain but for sure its your wiring somewhere is messed up take it off and double check im not saying your wires dont match up im saying prolly broken somewhere. sorry if this is no help
ok i get what youre saying. but i still dont know which pin goes to the cyl sensor. i looked at the pinout in the faq but all i see that looks like "cyl" is "cyp m" and "cyp b"
so idk which pin to trace.
one other thing, the engine in there before never had a cel and it ran fine 4 days before all this mess...
so idk which pin to trace.
one other thing, the engine in there before never had a cel and it ran fine 4 days before all this mess...
this should help you out
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1510399
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1349052
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1510399
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1349052
ive already looked at those from the faq's.
they dont say what goes to the #1 cyl position sensor as in the wire color, pin number, and pin in the dizzy plug itself. thats what i wanna know.
they dont say what goes to the #1 cyl position sensor as in the wire color, pin number, and pin in the dizzy plug itself. thats what i wanna know.
im doing the same swap in my 90 hatch i bought the jumper harness of ebay and a complete dx to ex harness of monotech her on honda tech and i have it all hooked up just like you are saying and i believe its the distributor, mine just keeps pumping gas out the exhaust manifold it dont start up . so im lost
found it incase anyone else needs it. connector B pin 11 and 12
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm
well ive already swaped out three dizzy's and im getting the same code. checked the wiring, switched two white wires and that caused the car to not even start. wired it back and soldered and heat shrunk all of the connections and still nothing. next im gonna wire the dizzy straight up to the ecu and if that doesn't work then idk what will. maybe swap out ecu for a known good unit... but i dont think it could be that either, just trying to eliminate possibilities


