Ok y'all, I know that I'm new here, not really new to cars though, but Hondas are pretty different from old skool Chevys so I figured I'd ask for help.

I have a little experience with a '91 Accord EX, which I drove for a few years, it never really gave me much trouble except for the distributor crapping out and the timing belt breaking within a week of each other.

Fast forward to today, I purchased a '92 Accord EX which had been last started about 1 1/2 years ago, it had some minor front end damage but I fixed that in about a 1/2 hour last night, and now I'm working on getting her fired up.

Here's the problem, of course it has the usual leaky valve cover gasket, which I found out about when I pulled the plugs which were worn so bad they were gapped to 1.8-1.9 millimeters! I replaced them with some Autolites, (yes I will be putting NGK's in it as soon as it actually fires and runs) gapped to 1.0 millimeter. It wouldn't even try to fire, so I pulled the oil filler cap and had my helper roll the engine over to make sure the timing belt was good, the rocker arm was moving so that means that everything is copacetic right?

We pulled the plugs, AGAIN, and poured a little fresh gas in each cylinder, then re-installed the plugs, hit the key, it fired but had a very choppy idle until the prime ran out.

Today we pumped out all of the old gas (which smelled terrible by the way) and poured in 5 gallons of plus unleaded (88 octane) along with some techron additive.

When I hit the key it tries to fire but won't idle it just chugs for maybe a second or two and then dies.

I pulled the dizzy cap and the rotor and cap look pretty bad so they will be getting replaced tomorrow, there was evidence of oil leaking into the dizzy cap so I cleaned it up real good and re-installed it, nothing changed, but it seems to want to "backfire" when it dies, is there any way to set the timing on this thing and if so, what should it be set at?

The car shows 200,806 on the odometer, and I know the person that I bought it from, she took good care of it until it was wrecked three years ago, since then she's fired it up and moved it a few times with the last time being about a year-and-a-half ago.

If any of you could help out I'd really appreciate it, any tips, tricks or suggestions?


Modified by The_Caged_Bird at 7:06 PM 5/25/2008

 

Anyone???? Anyone???

 

To much to read make it short in to the point!!!

 

Oh, I'm sorry, I was just trying to give all the info someone would need to discern whether I was wasting my time or not.

Apparently I am...

 

is your car carb or injection?????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Caged_Bird &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, I'm sorry, I was just trying to give all the info someone would need to discern whether I was wasting my time or not.

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Actually I think your details explained your situation pretty well...some people are just lazy and don't want to read.

I think if I were you I would take of the valve cover and make sure your timing is good. Double check it and triple check it, then just check all your basics, spark, fuel, compression and go from there.

 

I had just about wrote this place off.

Thanks for the info, I replaced the dizzy cap, rotor, and ignitor, the way I see it, the car has 200,000 miles on it and since the plugs I pulled out were so worn the electrodes were rounded and they were gapped to 1.8 millimeters, I figured that the parts I replaced probably needed replacing anyway.

Then I took out the injectors and OH MY GOD! I had to use an awl to clean out all of the caked in crud, re-installed the injectors and hit the key, she fired but idled real rough.

I took it for a drive around our 40 acres and about half-way through third gear it felt like a couple of plugs cleared.

The thing runs like a top now! Thanks for the help, I'll be in touch.

 

Well, sounds like you know what you're doing for the most part.

Get those injectors cleaned up real good and get those NGKs in there and see what that does for you.

 

By-the-way, does anyone know where I can get one stock alloy wheel cheap?

I'm hoping to find one for under $100.

 

WelcoMe to HoNda Tech!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Caged_Bird &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By-the-way, does anyone know where I can get one stock alloy wheel cheap?

I'm hoping to find one for under $100.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ebay

 

Keep us updated with this. I would like to see what gets this car fired up.

 

What kind of alloy is it? There are a couple different types for that year. If you could take a picture of it and i'm sure i can help you out.

 

Lol!

Yeah, I will be buying a Chiltons as soon as I find one, I've already got it running, as I said earlier, I cleaned the injectors and it runs like a top! It has a hole in the catalytic converter so it sounds all fast and furious so I can't help but chuckle when I get on the throttle (I swear to God I heard my 'vette laugh at it last night), I need to replace the half-shafts too (ironically a problem I often have with my other car) but it runs good, the interior is decent, and it doesn't leak water so I'm happy with it. I have to buy another stock alloy wheel to get it street legal (it's on the spare right now), but I should be driving it daily by the end of the week.

 

Ummm, stock '92 EX alloy wheels as far as I know, it looks like brushed aluminum. I don't really care about looks so much as all the wheels match each other in style only, and all the tires are black. The clearcoat on the car is peeling real bad so I'm not trying to polish a turd here, just trying to get it look decent and be legal enough to get an inspection sticker.