First off, I want to give a big THANKS to Jim @ PIC. He hooked me up with some PIC Select P2 coilovers (10kF/8kR).

I got them late yesterday and decided I was going to go ahead and install them today. I started on the rears and had a little trouble getting the old spring/shock combo out.

So I read through the directions that were included, and noticed I should unbolt the upper control arm. I just wasn't sure where though.


refer to #33 (flange bolt)

So I thought, removing 1 bolt instead of 2 bolts would be easier... I decided to try and get #33 loose. Seemed to start to loosen, and SNAP! the head of that bolt became junk. The coilovers are on now, but now, HOW do I get this bolt with the threads out? The upper arm is still attached, but is not lining up totally. The bushing that this bolt goes through seems really tough and might be one of the reasons why I think this is going to be difficult. Could I even think about driving my car to work (if I have to because rain and Motorcycles don't mix) if I can't get the threaded part out? I found a bolt for the meantime to use. But I will replace with the correct one once I get a chance to order. They only cost $0.90. Sucks something that cheap could really hinder me so much.

Any ideas on how to remove a bolt w/ a shear off head? 14mm and I think it is a M10.

 

Any pics of the bolt?Also do you have access to a drill and bits?

 

yeah i need to see a pic.

 

please share how the ride is with the P2~~ im going for PIC too but can't decide P3 or P2....

 

I do have drill bits and a drill. My concern is the angle at which its at. Not a good one.

Here's some pictures... click on the thumbnails to see it HUGE.



Thanks for helping out.

 

just grind off the captive nut and replace with new nut and new bolt. Tack weld new nut on to trailing arm if you wish.

 

for future reference (though from the pics i think you already found this out) the two #29 bolts are normaly much easier to take out

just do want D siad and you should be fine.

 

or hacksaw jim duggan style between the arm and the longer portion of whats left of that bolt. if a hacksaw even fits in there. then just turn out the remainer of the bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or hacksaw jim duggan style between the arm and the longer portion of whats left of that bolt. if a hacksaw even fits in there. then just turn out the remainer of the bolt. </TD></TR></TABLE>

"HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO"

Rent a reciprocating saw from Home Depot, cuts like a hot knife through butter. But make sure you can get a good enough grip on the remaining portion of the bolt to get it out of the other end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mist sITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for future reference (though from the pics i think you already found this out) the two #29 bolts are normaly much easier to take out

just do want D siad and you should be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I stongly disagree because trying to put those bolts back it is harder which tension on them and easier to crossthread(done it before)

 

Looks like you might have enough threads to get some vice grips on there. Not sure if you will be able to get it in there though...

When bolts look like there gonna be a pain, I normally hit them with some propane for a min or so. Heat does wonders. Becareful not to melt the bushing though...

If this fails do what others have said.

 

Thanks for all the help everyone! We partied like rockstars last night and I am finally getting up and around. I am going to try and get my hands dirty.

Do I have to worry about that bushing? Like is there anything special to the way its in there? I.E. is it pressed in? I don't have any specialty tool to take it out or put it back in. That thing is in there though.

Also, if I use a propane torch, should I try to only make the retaining nut hot? Or just blast both that and the bolt's threads?


Modified by Ryan_C at 3:47 PM 5/25/2008

 

M10x1.25x60 or M10x1.25x50 if i am mistaken..

 

damn. that looks like bitch to get it off.


Modified by itr1244 at 5:53 PM 5/25/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan_C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, if I use a propane torch, should I try to only make the retaining nut hot? Or just blast both that and the bolt's threads?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try for just the nut, but as weak as a propane torch is, I doubt you'll be able to heat one without the other. Of course remove arm from car to do this.
First try quickly warming ret. nut up (not to the point you blister paint), then hose down nut and bolt with this while gently tapping on assembly.
High freq vibes from tapping along with thermal contraction will sometimes draw additional penetrant into threads. If it doesn't come out, then reheat it HOT, have a wet rag handy to quench rubber bushing.
Worst case scenario, carefully centerpunch exact center of bolt end and drill out, chisel out bolt fragments and run a tap through. Any time you run rusty bolt threads thru a nut, there will be galling and you should run a tap thru to clean up threads and follow with a new bolt and lotsa anti-seize. My fav. is the kind with copper flakes in it, even if the grease dries out, the copper will act as a thread lube and will minimize galling. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan_C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the help everyone! We partied like rockstars last night and I am finally getting up and around. I am going to try and get my hands dirty.

Do I have to worry about that bushing? Like is there anything special to the way its in there? I.E. is it pressed in? I don't have any specialty tool to take it out or put it back in. That thing is in there though.

Also, if I use a propane torch, should I try to only make the retaining nut hot? Or just blast both that and the bolt's threads?


Modified by Ryan_C at 3:47 PM 5/25/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly, I don't know how that bushing is installed, but its more than likely pressed in.

From the picture it appears that you've already used sometype type of lubricat, but yes PB blaster is the best. Propane gets hot but not hot enough to really deform the metal. If you want something hotter then get some map-gas or just torch it off with an oxy-actelyne torch. But honestly if you need something hotter then what propane can put out your gonna def deform that bushing. If it comes to that I would cut/grind it off before going hotter then propane.

 

I agree with what everybody else has suggested.

Personally, I did it with a hacksaw (back in the ghetto daZe) and WD40'd the crap outta the rest of the bolt and turned the little nub with some visegrips.



It might take a little bit more time, but reassemble and torque everything down while pasting this stuff all over the bolts.

It's especially essential for those who get snow and salted roads.

 

[QUOTE=RagingAngel]I agree with what everybody else has suggested.

Personally, I did it with a hacksaw (back in the ghetto daZe) and WD40'd the crap outta the rest of the bolt and turned the little nub with some visegrips.



Heat is your friend. Use a small propane torch and heat up the remainding bolt. When its hot use a visegrip and turn it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94rs-turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I stongly disagree because trying to put those bolts back it is harder which tension on them and easier to crossthread(done it before) </TD></TR></TABLE>

just jack up the rear rotor to help get a better angle and ease the tension and you can get the bolts back in with no problem.

 

I got the bolt loose with some heat and a set of vise grips. But that damn bushing is whats keeping it from come out. The bushing has so much tension on it, that it won't let it turn.

Another question now for the fronts. Do I try and use the OE brake like brackets that are on the shocks? I separated them from the original shocks and slid one onto the PIC lower mount and it's not even close to a tight fit. ???

I have also headed out to find some copper anti-seize and had no luck in finding any. I went to Ace and Advance Auto.

 

Zip tie those brake lines, it's OK.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan_C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got the bolt loose with some heat and a set of vise grips. But that damn bushing is whats keeping it from come out. The bushing has so much tension on it, that it won't let it turn.

Another question now for the fronts. Do I try and use the OE brake like brackets that are on the shocks? I separated them from the original shocks and slid one onto the PIC lower mount and it's not even close to a tight fit. ???

I have also headed out to find some copper anti-seize and had no luck in finding any. I went to Ace and Advance Auto.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the bolt is probably seized inside that bushing, which is why I said just cut it and turn out the remainder of the bolt. then you will just have to pound the broken part out of the bushing (rest it on something and bang it with a hammer and screwdriver or something similar). its common on lower shock bolts. last resort would be melt the bushing to get the center section out, then bang on the coller to get the rest out. then a new bushing will have to be pressed in.

are you talking about the shift fork itself? i just used the stock shift fork and zip tied the brake lines to the shock. just make sure its secure.

the autozone near me has numerous kinds of anti-seize...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan_C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have also headed out to find some copper anti-seize and had no luck in finding any. I went to Ace and Advance Auto.</TD></TR></TABLE>
NAPA's got it. Ask for NAPA/Permatex "Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, Item# 765-2569. 4 oz. bottle and cheep!



Modified by The Dude at 3:32 PM 5/26/2008

 

Well, I ended up finding some Anti-Seize but it's Permatex #80078 Advance Formula. Its doesn't say anything about Copper though. Oh well, I guess I tried.

I finally got everything together and took the R out for a quick drive.

1st, the ride height is extremely high. I tried to match the PIC with my existing springs/shocks. Well, I guess I didn't take into consideration of how much more stiff these coilovers would be. It feels like I am rollin in a SUV.

What we ended up using an air chisel on the threaded peice left in the retaining nut. Went to auto store and bought a mini box of class 10 flange nuts and used 2 of them to lock onto an extra bolt I had around here (M10x1.25x60). I gave that bolt a coat of Anti-Seize and also some thread lock at the end. But in order to use my existing upper control arm, we heated the metal part of the bushing and used that air hammer to pound that bish out. It took a lot of pounding and it finally started to budge. We used a really strong air hammer that my buddy uses while working on VW's at the stealership.

So Yeah, I get to drive the R to work tomorrow. Hope these settle a little. Now, all I have to do is figure out how I actually adjust the height without taking everything apart.

 

glad you got it sorted out.

height adjustment should be pretty straight forward. jack the car up to remove some tension on the spring, unlock the collars by turning them away from each other, turn the collars up or down to desired height, lock the collars back together by tightening them onto each other.