i have a gsr swap in my delsol. its a built aebs sleeved gsr motor w/ new water pump, t-stat, radiator hoses, fluidyne radiator, coolant lines to the turbo, and a cometic headgasket w/ the head torqued to 85lbs. everything is new, except for the cap/radiator, and the motor has only 500 miles on it. when the car is at idle or driving around locally it does not overheat whatsoever. but when i'm on the highway cruising, it'll start to overheat.
i have a 4"downpipe w/ top mount manifold so i had to put the fan on the other side of the radiator and have it pushing air through the radiator instead of pulling air. could this be why? the downpipe is not headerwrapped also so could the engine bay be getting too hot on the highway? any help is much appreciated. thanks.

 

did you switch the polarity of the fan? if not, that will absolutely cause the problems your experiencing.

 

We had something like that with are motor also. Did you make sure to get all the air bubbles of the radiator? you may want to go ahead and get a new cap for the radiator. Do you have o-rings on your sleeves? if so one of the rings may not be seating with the head gasket and after time starts leaking, that's what we found to be are problem and you may want to use copper spray on the head gasket. I hope this helps you out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you switch the polarity of the fan? if not, that will absolutely cause the problems your experiencing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes. you mean switching the wires on the fan so instead of pulling air it's pushing air? yes i did that because that was my original problem lol. i since switched it, then it occured again while i was driving to e-town from queens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneqkfodo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We had something like that with are motor also. Did you make sure to get all the air bubbles of the radiator? you may want to go ahead and get a new cap for the radiator. Do you have o-rings on your sleeves? if so one of the rings may not be seating with the head gasket and after time starts leaking, that's what we found to be are problem and you may want to use copper spray on the head gasket. I hope this helps you out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes the system is properly bled. the block does not have orings but to my understanding the cometic 84mm headgasket has orings on it. and i did use copper spray on the headgasket even though it wasnt necessary.

 

Get the fan to come on and stick a piece of paper on the inside part of the radiator to see if the fan is actaully blowing through the rad. I have had tons of instances where people bring their car and the fan isnt the correct way. The radiator fins can cause turblualnce and you THINK the fan is going the correct way and its not. Also check the fan itself, some fans cant be reversed or should i say dont work correctly when polarity i switched. There are puller fans that can fix this issue. Also is the fan tight against the rad? Also if the air isnt coming through the rad check the tubes to see if they have ballooned, if you have ever used this radiator on a car that has blown a headgasket this is when you will usually see such a thing. The cylinder pressure blows the tubes out and you wont have any air blowing through the rad core.

couple other things...

Is the thermostat opening? bottom hose getting hot?

Is the intercooler blocking the entire radiator? I have seen instances where people have a big bar and plate core and dont cut the front bumper and no air makes it to the radiator.

Does the downpipe rest on the radiator? If so that can boil coolant real fast.

 

Most fans your not just swappiing wires, you also have to remove the blade, turn it around and reinstall it onto the fan. I know mine the directions told me to do this.

 

I met this guy last weekend and looked over the car, he definately does not have the front bumper cut out and the rad appeared to be fully blocked, hell of a setup though, looked real nice.

 

yeh, my bumper isnt cut out and its a precision 750 that is probably blocking the radiator. downpipe isnt touching. i'll try to stop by the shop miller and have you take a look. i put my hand in front of the radiator and can feel the air being pushed through. radiator was never on a blown headgasket motor. tstat is opening, bottom hose is getting hot. i'm confused, but the next thing i'll do is switch the fan back to the other side somehow and put it back to pulling to see if this fixes it. thanks for the help everybody.

 

soooooooo. i installed a new c&r radiator, new fan, new cap, new tstat and throughly bled the system. it still overheats, next i'm going to change the water pump and see if that fixes the problem. if not then it's definitely because i don't have air coming to the radiator. fan's on constant as well and the top radiator hose seems to always swell up fat like its about to pop.

 

if you did all that i would say headgasket, especially if the top hose swells like you are saying.

 

could be a timing issue while at cruise. what are the egt's at cruise speed?

 

i thought it could be timing too but part throttle timing is pretty conservative. i don't have an egt gauge.

 

deffinately get an egt and see what the temps are at cruise speed.

 

I had the same issue with my car awhile back. I fixed it by adding timing went from 36* to 42*-44* cruising no more overheating.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same issue with my car awhile back. I fixed it by adding timing went from 36* to 42*-44* cruising no more overheating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's cruising between 40 and 44. the only thing i can think of is the bumper isn't cut out so it's causing IAT'S to go sky high and then ignition correction kicks in and pulls 3 degrees, which may cause slightly higher egt's and then higher ect's. then ect correction kicks in and pulls another 3 degrees. it makes sense. logs do show ignition corrections kicking. i will try logging without a bumper on for a day. thanks.

 

We've had a couple cars do the same thing. Turned out to be air flow problems to the radiator. Need to cut that bumper, get some air to it. Jarrod

 

def pull the bumper.......

 

had the same problem recently, turned out it was the cometic headgasket that was the problem...switch to a 84 ge gasket, and no more overheat...

 

stupid question, but is the t-stat facing the right direction...sometimes its the stupid little things in a midnight rush to get something done.

 

take off your bumper and see if it still happens, if it does you know the airflows your issue

 

is there a resolution to this? im having the same problem

 

can anyone help? i just put a turbo on my 95 civic and now it keeps overheating..my oil isnt milky, my bumper is cut out...

 

what kind of fan are you running?

I had the same problem and I bought spal 13" fan. Now the car does not overheat. Before buying the fan I was driving around without the bumper.

 

update????