Mods: 97 Honda civic hatch with JDM Gsr Motor Obd2 P72 ecu using modified civic harness..
Grrr.. Im so madd.. luckily I stopped right in front of my garage before I turned off the car. My battery keeps draining and I dont know why.. ever since I did the swap its been a mess..

Does it matter which order are plugged into the battery terminals?


Can I switch these around or not??


Also I checked everything to make sure the screws were tightened



any advice? anyone know whats the problem?? I remembered along time ago I turned off the car and took the keys off and noticed that my cluster lights were dimly still on.. I can see the dimmly red brake light, the turn signals and so on.. I put my keys back in and started the car then turned it off.. it finally went away.. hrmm..

 

if u have a sub or a amp that might be draining it

that what my car use to do a long time ago

 

No I dont have any.. it never did this before until I did the gsr swap.. but before that I was driving the car for like 2 months with no problems.. now my battery keeps draining.. I have to keep taking my battery to autozone to get it recharged.. within 3 days its drained.. I died out at school, at circuit city, at the gas station, in front of my house... hahah its a mess.. SOMEONE HELP ME!! maybe I need to replace my modified civic harness with a d16y8..

 

As to answer your question about which terminals, both of thoes terminals in the fuse box are interconnected it makes no difference.

What I would recommend is connect an amp meter between the fuse box and which ever wire comes from your battery into the fuse box "DO NOT START THE CAR" just connect it and see how much current your car is drawing.

Then start pulling fuses and watch that amp meter value it should drop to zero once you pull the correct fuse and that way you can narrow down what is the item thats pulling power..

the other thing your battery might simply be dead generally they will hold a charge for a day or so you jump them, the car runs fine untill you shut it off and it sits.

 

actually reading your post again, try this its going to sound really stupid but i had the same issue , take the gauge cluster out and see if theres a light bulb with a wire comming out of it going back into another light bulb, pull that and see what happens...


I rewired my dash and thats a mistake I made and to this day I still have no idea wtf it is, but i removed that light and it solved the problem.

 

I thougt it did matter how they're connected but maybe not, anyways your alternator has a internal regulator and it could be stuck which will drain your battery when the cars off. Get your alternator tested.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6hatchboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thougt it did matter how they're connected but maybe not, anyways your alternator has a internal regulator and it could be stuck which will drain your battery when the cars off. Get your alternator tested.</TD></TR></TABLE>
really it does??? is the internal regulator suppose to charge up the battery? if so I'll take it off and bring it to autozone tomorrow..

 

It seems like this is a common problem for swaps. I had the same problem and it took me a while to figure out that the transmisson ground was bad. first step to figure out if it is the same prob is with the car running see how much voltage is coming out of the alternator red lead on post of alt and black lead on negitve battery. (Dont use engine as a ground for the meter cause if you have a bad ground then the number wont be accurate) you should have around 14v if not alt is bad, then check to see how much is going to the battery just place meter on both post. if there is more than a .5v diffrence then there is a problem. try and get a sub power wire and use it as a make shift ground and then double check your readings if it changed then you know you got a bad ground. if it dosent change then you have resistance in the power wire and it needs to be replaced.

 

and it dosent matter which one goes where they have continuity when both are connected

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrhatch2356 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems like this is a common problem for swaps. I had the same problem and it took me a while to figure out that the transmisson ground was bad. first step to figure out if it is the same prob is with the car running see how much voltage is coming out of the alternator red lead on post of alt and black lead on negitve battery. (Dont use engine as a ground for the meter cause if you have a bad ground then the number wont be accurate) you should have around 14v if not alt is bad, then check to see how much is going to the battery just place meter on both post. if there is more than a .5v diffrence then there is a problem. try and get a sub power wire and use it as a make shift ground and then double check your readings if it changed then you know you got a bad ground. if it dosent change then you have resistance in the power wire and it needs to be replaced.</TD></TR></TABLE>
man.. I thought a swap was going to be so easy.. just plug and play.. well I believe its my engine harness.. I had no money back then to buy an ex harness so I just took the one from my old single cam and modified it.. apparently I must have done something wrong because my o2 sensors are not working and its draining my battery.. oh lord oh lord.. anyone with an ex harness that wanna sell it to me??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by likwidchz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually reading your post again, try this its going to sound really stupid but i had the same issue , take the gauge cluster out and see if theres a light bulb with a wire comming out of it going back into another light bulb, pull that and see what happens...


I rewired my dash and thats a mistake I made and to this day I still have no idea wtf it is, but i removed that light and it solved the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah maybe ill try this because I did change my cluster from a cx cluster to an si cluster.. ill check tomorry..

 

you know what, id bet you wired the 12 volt to your o2 sensor heater wrong so its always drawing half an amp or so to heat your 02 heater


your 02 sensor probably isnt wired right if its the 1 wire o2 sensor or the 4 wire o2 sensor either way both are easy to diagnose

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by likwidchz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know what, id bet you wired the 12 volt to your o2 sensor heater wrong so its always drawing half an amp or so to heat your 02 heater


your 02 sensor probably isnt wired right if its the 1 wire o2 sensor or the 4 wire o2 sensor either way both are easy to diagnose</TD></TR></TABLE>
you know what your probably right!! man.. one day while changing my headers I forgot to take off the po2 sensor plug from the downpipe.. after unbolting the headers I dropped it to the floor and the 4 pins from the sensor came out of the plug!! so I took it and compared it to an old o2 sensor.. maybe I did confused the black wires.. also my secondary o2 sensor is not working at all.. I get signal from the primary o2 sensor but the secondary is not reading anything.. I only get a CEL 41 which is primary o2 sensor and I tried changing all my o2 sensors and still same code.. you would think that you would get a code for the secondary since its not plugged into anything.. hrmm.. I think its my wires..

 

did you get your alternator checked?

 

The 2 black wires have no polarity you cant mess them up, they just need to go to the two same colored wires on your aftermarket o2 sensor you can figure out which wires go where on a 02 sensor doing the following.

take a multimeter and put it on resistance and measure the resistance between the 2 same colored wires on the 02 sensor "consult the manual" and there will be a resistance. that's your ignition/o2 sensor heater lead off the ecu "polarity doesn't make a difference"

the other 2 wires will be your signal ground + o2 sensor output "narrow band" generally youl need to consult your manual "included with your o2 sensor if your using a aftermarket o2 sensor like denso or bosch or whatever" you can test these on a digital multimeter if you put it on voltage like the lowest setting and simply blow on the tip, you should see the voltage on the multimeter change.


the only thing I can think of is if you added a wire to heat the 02 sensor so its being heated even when the key is out of the ignition.

measure the current draw of your car with the battery going through the amp meter and start pulling fuses and see what you get, the ecu will normally pull current from the battery when the car is off but that's using the 12v backup lead to remember learned emissions data for fuel tables.

 

As to answer your question about which terminals, both of thoes terminals in the fuse box are interconnected it makes no difference.
Wrong

They are not the same 1 goes as ground directly to the harness the other goes as 12 volt power to the starter.
If you look at the cable on the left it should have a downward notch so that way you can swap them by mistake. if you unscrew them you can see the notch its really obvious. As for your problem ill be honest never tried to use the same harness I always tried to look for a ex or Si one but it seems to be a comon problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrcvc93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As to answer your question about which terminals, both of thoes terminals in the fuse box are interconnected it makes no difference.
Wrong

They are not the same 1 goes as ground directly to the harness the other goes as 12 volt power to the starter.
If you look at the cable on the left it should have a downward notch so that way you can swap them by mistake. if you unscrew them you can see the notch its really obvious. As for your problem ill be honest never tried to use the same harness I always tried to look for a ex or Si one but it seems to be a comon problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so by my pictures is it on the correct way? or should I switch those terminals around??

 

Here are the o2 wires colors...
Primary o2 wires: Solid white, forget color of other wire, Black/green, black/white
Secondary o2 wires: White/yellow, red/yellow, black/green, black/white
I now that both have black/green, black/white.. 1 being ground while the other being 12 volts.. I believe that black/green is always ground correct me if im wrong..
what I did was add a separate wire for the IAB solenoid(dual butterfly)for the manifold because its a stock gsr manifold.. the positive wire went straight to the ecu to the correct pin.. while I shared the negative with a black/green wire because I beleive its a sensor ground.. maybe that might have caused the short..

 

heres the update.. I took off my alternator and brought it over to autozone and got it tested.. turns out that it passed all the tests therefore my alternator works fine.. the guy at autozone told me that most of the tiem when they bring there alternators over to autozone that after they put it back on it usually works.. therefore I have to maybe tighten a screw or loosen it.. ill be back with updates later on today.!!

 

yeah to tell you the truth all you really need is to connect that IAB valve right to the intake manifold without the solenoid, I did this on my H22A and it's kinda neat actually... when at full throttle the IAB is open because vacuum is low when your at cruise IAB is closed because vacuum is high, when you tap the throttle IAB slams open works neato and 1 less thing you need to wire up as its really not necessary.

IAB works by getting you slightly "more positive" intake manifold "combustion chamber pressures" when IAB is closed so at part throttle/cruise when vacuum is high the IAB is closed which causes a slight ram air effect since the intake manifold is using the long runners vs the short ones, this makes it so you get better fuel economy while using the long runners. how ever this is the exact opposite when you want more performance which is why when you floor it, the IAB's will open which causes you to use both runners.

As for your 02 sensor problem you would have to consult the manual when it comes to finding which wire does what.

If you are electronically inclined the o2 sensor wires go to:
2 of the wires from the 02 sensor are generally the same color one is white the other is whatever color it wants to be
1) Ignition on "should be 12 volts" "color usually black"
2) Direct link to ecu "will be direct connection to "o2 Sensor to Heater Control" on ecu "Usually black in color wires 1) and 2) can be reversed with no effect "NO POLARITY"

3) Sensor Ground This pin goes right to the ecu to a sensor ground since you have a OBD2 car I'm not sure of this pin out , google for obd2 pinouts but on a obd1 car its D21 or D22 "this wire on the 02 sensor is generally green "from factory" on a bosche sensor I replaced on my 96 accord this wire was grey since the o2 sensor was aftermarket.

4) This is the primary o2 sensor signal wire this is white on the Bosch sensor along with the OEM 02 sensor, This wire is white and will go directly to the ecu along with sensor ground and Heater control.

As for your alternator issue.


there are 4 wires that connect to the alternator consult the haynes manual or get the service manual for your car but honda wires all the alternators the same way.

1 wire will go directly to the dash battery light this wire is ground when the alternator is not spinning.

2 wires go to the ecu to control how much voltage the alternator is putting out

1 wire goes to 12v when the ignition is on, this wire is the same wire as one of the leads that heats the 02 sensor one of the black wires.


DO NOT under any circumstances start your car and run at high rpm's with the alternator large gage wire connected to the battery or you will ruin the ecu , cd player and other things as when the alternator is spinning at high rpm the ecu cant control how much current is produced by the device so you will have the alternator putting out more then 12volts and possibly ruin anything without voltage regulators in them..


HAPPY SOLDERING AND CHOPPING AND SWEARING trying to get this ish working!

 

man you sure do know alot about wiring hahah.. thanks for the info.. I brought my car over to autozone yesterday.. they tested the battery on the car while its running to see what voltage im getting.. it was like 12.60 with the high beams on, emergency lights on, fog lights on, and radio on.. the guy told me that it should have been at around 13.60 at least.. so he told me that I have ground issues.. also on another site I believe they told me to rewire the secondary o2 sensor.. for what reason?? I dont know but it makes alot of sense because my primary o2 sensor wires works but my secondary does not.. I did a test using an 02 simulator. the light blinks green if its getting power.. I plugged it into the primary o2 sensor and I get power, then when I plug it into the secondary o2 sensor I dont get any power.. Herse the site I just found last night.. check the o2 sensor part..
http://kosmo.homedns.org/trey/6gen/
my best bet is to simply get an ex harness..

 

also here are my o2 sensor wire colors:
My o2 sensors
1st-
green/black
White
black/green
black/white

2nd-
red/yellow
White/red
black/yellow
black/white

I believe that white and white/red are the sensors
and red/yellow and green/black are the sensor grounds
while black/yellow, black/white, black/green are the heater grounds and 12 volts..

 

Well...


Im pretty sure but guessing here
green/black is sensor ground -&gt; pin to ecu somewhere
white most likely primary 02 signal -&gt; pin to ecu
black/green
Black/white -- guessing both of these will be heater control + Ignition

2nd
red/yellow --- strickly guessing here -&gt; sensor ground on ecu
white/red -- secondary 02 sensor -&gt; pin on ecu
black/yellow
Black/white -- also going to be secondary 02 sensor heater wires


to figure out wtf these wires are really from what I recall
yellow/black came from the main relay
black/yellow come from the main relay


get a hold of the obd2 pinouts and look at the ecu connectors on your ecu *rule of thumb* the wire colors wont change from the ecu to all the components they go to.


get your multimeter and clip it on the frame and test all 4 black wires on both the o2 sensors and label them with which one has 12v's with the key in position 2 once you do that set them aside

your going to need a long wire or flat peice of metal or a probe something you can insert inside a ecu connector "the thing you disconnected off the ecu all 3 or 4 of the large plugs" figure out what wires are the heater wires look like A05/A06 A8/C1 not sure which you have

Narrow down which wires are sensor grounds

Narrow down both primary/secondary o2 sensor inputs and be good!

Do a search on the forum for obd2 pinouts for either obd2a or obd2b I'm not sure what the cutoff is or which you have.

OBD2a OBD2b Function OBD1 Color Notes
A01 B05 Injector 4 A02 Yellow
A02 B04 Injector 3 A05 Light Blue
A03 B03 Injector 2 A03 Red
A04 B11 Injector 1 A01 Brown
A05 A08 SO2H No connection on OBD1
A06 C01 PO2H A06 Orange/black
A08 B12 VTS A04 Orange/White
A09 B20 LG1 A26 Black/Red
A10 B02 PG1 A23 Black
A11 B01 IGP1 A25 Yellow/Black
A12 B23 IACV A09 Green/White
A15 A06 PCS A20 Red
A16 A16 FLR A07 Green/Yellow
A17 A17 ACC A15 Black/Red
A18 A18 MIL A13 Green/Orange
A19 A02 ALTC A16 White/Yellow No connection on D16Y8 P2Nb
A20 B13 ICM A21 Red/Green
A22 B22 LG2 B02 Brown
A23 B10 PG2 A24 Black
A24 B09 ICP2 B01 Yellow Black
A27 A20 FANC A12 Yellow/Green
C01 C31 CKFP No connection on OBD1
C02 C08 CKPP B15 Blue/Green
C03 C20 TDCP B13 Orange/Blue
C04 C29 CYPP B11 Orange
C05 A27 ACS B05 Blue/Red
C06 A24 STS B09 Blue/White
C07 A10 SCS D04 Brown
C10 B21 VBU D01 White/Blue
C11 C22 CKFM No connection on OBD1
C12 C09 CKPM B16 Blue/Yellow
C13 C21 TDCM B14 White/Blue
C14 C30 CYPM B12 White
C15 C10 VTM D06 Orange/Green Connected to VTS on OBD2a
C16 A26 PSW B08 Brown/Red
C17 C05 ALTF D09 Pink No connection on D16Y8 P2Nb
C18 C23 VSS B10 Yellow/Blue
D01 C27 TPS D11 Pink/Black
D02 C26 ECT D13 Red/White
D03 C17 MAP D17 Pink/White
D04 C19 VCC1 D19 Yellow/Green
D05 A32 BKSM D02 Greem/White
D06 C03 KS D03 Red/Green No connection on P08, P28
D07 C16 PO2S D14 White
D08 C25 IAT D15
D10 C28 VCC2 D20 Yellow/White
D11 C18 SG2 D22 Green/White
D12 C07 SG1 D21 Green/Blue
D14 A23 SO2S No connection on OBD1
D16 A30 EL D10 Green/Red No connection on D16Y8 P2Nb

 

I am not trying to ruin your train of thought but all the stuff that you are talking about can drain a battery but it is obivious from not only my own experinces but from what the guy told you at autozone. break it down to two diffrent problems 1. charging problems (not getting full charge from alternator) 2. draw problems (to much amps being drawn from devices) Like I said in my previous post you should check voltage coming off of alt. then check voltage at battery. then make you a good ground cable and and check again I will put $200.00 that it fixes your problem. I guess I should ask if you even own a multimeter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrhatch2356 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am not trying to ruin your train of thought but all the stuff that you are talking about can drain a battery but it is obivious from not only my own experinces but from what the guy told you at autozone. break it down to two diffrent problems 1. charging problems (not getting full charge from alternator) 2. draw problems (to much amps being drawn from devices) Like I said in my previous post you should check voltage coming off of alt. then check voltage at battery. then make you a good ground cable and and check again I will put $200.00 that it fixes your problem. I guess I should ask if you even own a multimeter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah I do own a multimeter.. thats how i adjusted my tps.. but Im too lazy to check everything.. I took out my alternator and it passed when I got it checked at autozone so I dont think thats the problem.. its a more powerful motor so I think its gonna need better grounds.. I think ill just buy a ground kit and wire it all around my motor escpecially the alternator.. and especially my fog lights including the rear fog lights.. and side markers!! and rear spoiler light!! maybe I have too much lights..
but thanks for the help..