help please: 91 DA Passenger Side Floor Leak
ok so g2ic is not working and im lookin for a write up on how to fix my 91 da's passenger floor leak does anyone know how to fix it by anychance if so can you just copy and paste on this thread......thx for the time
http://g2ic.com/tegtips/interior/15.html reads as follows:
Fixing Wet Passenger-Floor-Board
1st go to Acura or Honda and order qty 8 of part number 91608-SJ6-003. It is a small white rubber seal. They cost about $ 2.50 each 2nd remove the wiper arms and the wiper motor cowl. The wiper cowl is the long black panel under the wiper arms. Pop out the black circles and unscrew the white clips. You may also have to pull out the plastic pins under the rubber seal on the firewall side of the cowl. The panel is cumbersome. Use caution not to break the ends near the hood hinges. After you remove the cover there is another black cowl on the passenger side. This cowl covers the passenger cabin air intake. The leak is coming from the black plastic push screws that hold that cover on. When you remove the cover you can see the seals in the holes that the push screws were in. The rubber seal dry-rots over time and the sides split open. Water leaks in one drop at a time and adds up quickly. Once you have replaced the seals you should be leak free for another 9-10 years.
btw, i tried to do it with only silicone. epic fail. my car still leaks badly and now i have to take all that stuff off again.
Modified by be18see1 at 12:33 PM 5/20/2008
Fixing Wet Passenger-Floor-Board
1st go to Acura or Honda and order qty 8 of part number 91608-SJ6-003. It is a small white rubber seal. They cost about $ 2.50 each 2nd remove the wiper arms and the wiper motor cowl. The wiper cowl is the long black panel under the wiper arms. Pop out the black circles and unscrew the white clips. You may also have to pull out the plastic pins under the rubber seal on the firewall side of the cowl. The panel is cumbersome. Use caution not to break the ends near the hood hinges. After you remove the cover there is another black cowl on the passenger side. This cowl covers the passenger cabin air intake. The leak is coming from the black plastic push screws that hold that cover on. When you remove the cover you can see the seals in the holes that the push screws were in. The rubber seal dry-rots over time and the sides split open. Water leaks in one drop at a time and adds up quickly. Once you have replaced the seals you should be leak free for another 9-10 years.
btw, i tried to do it with only silicone. epic fail. my car still leaks badly and now i have to take all that stuff off again.
Modified by be18see1 at 12:33 PM 5/20/2008
Good deal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by be18see1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw, i tried to do it with only silicone. epic fail. my car still leaks badly and now i have to take all that stuff off again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm just going to add some advice for silicone. I'm not implying that it would have worked for your situation. Silicone has to have a really clean surface to bond well. I typically use rubbing alcohol to remove all dirt and grease. Make sure the surfaces are dry before applying the silicone and it should stick tenaciously. If you can rub the cured silicone and have it peel away, the surface was not clean. Also, always check the expiration date on silicone before using it. Old sealant will not properly cure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by be18see1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw, i tried to do it with only silicone. epic fail. my car still leaks badly and now i have to take all that stuff off again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm just going to add some advice for silicone. I'm not implying that it would have worked for your situation. Silicone has to have a really clean surface to bond well. I typically use rubbing alcohol to remove all dirt and grease. Make sure the surfaces are dry before applying the silicone and it should stick tenaciously. If you can rub the cured silicone and have it peel away, the surface was not clean. Also, always check the expiration date on silicone before using it. Old sealant will not properly cure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good deal.
I'm just going to add some advice for silicone. I'm not implying that it would have worked for your situation. Silicone has to have a really clean surface to bond well. I typically use rubbing alcohol to remove all dirt and grease. Make sure the surfaces are dry before applying the silicone and it should stick tenaciously. If you can rub the cured silicone and have it peel away, the surface was not clean. Also, always check the expiration date on silicone before using it. Old sealant will not properly cure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know how to use/apply silicone, its just that its hard to seal the gap up without leaving any gaps at all. i guess im going to have to drop $20 on seals that are wort 10 cents apiece.
I'm just going to add some advice for silicone. I'm not implying that it would have worked for your situation. Silicone has to have a really clean surface to bond well. I typically use rubbing alcohol to remove all dirt and grease. Make sure the surfaces are dry before applying the silicone and it should stick tenaciously. If you can rub the cured silicone and have it peel away, the surface was not clean. Also, always check the expiration date on silicone before using it. Old sealant will not properly cure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know how to use/apply silicone, its just that its hard to seal the gap up without leaving any gaps at all. i guess im going to have to drop $20 on seals that are wort 10 cents apiece.
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