HELP!!! My g/f recently bought and 03 Si Ep3 haveing oil burning issue's!!!! With 55k.And the car is burning oil like crazy about 3.5 quert's between oil changes we are useing mobil 1 10-40..So what caused this car with such low mile's to burn so much oil?? How is this going to affect the car later on?? What oil should we be useing?? Thank's for your help..

 

I use sythetic 5w30. I believe 5w20 is recommended though.. crazy how it burns oil already though, hope someone else has teh same problem that knows what the problem is

 

Yea she bought it from a dealer so we dont know much about the past..and previous owner.

 

Depending on who you talk to (and there are countless opinions regarding this issue on this board and elsewhere) "normal" oil consumption for a K20 engine is approximately a quart of oil per thousand miles. Those who swear their engines never use oil tend to overlook the fact that oil contamination (condensation, unburned fuel, etc.) is effectively "maintaining" the level of the oil in their engines between oil changes.

Honda doesn't recommend a 10w-40 weight oil for the K20 engine because the heavier weight doesn't flow as well as a 5w-30 at start-up and it impedes the effective operation of the vtec mechanism. Mobil 1 lubricates really well in extremes of temperature, but it tends to burn off more quickly than most conventional oils. That's probably what your g/f is experiencing. IMHO, yr g/f would be better off using Castrol 5w/30, which is much more resistant to thermal burnoff.

 

Thank's for the advice..

 

How long do you go on oil changes? 3.5 quarts is a lot of if you change oil every 3k miles. Also when you got WOT can you see blueish smoke out the back window? It might not be burning but it might have a leak, I'd do a real good visual inspection under the hood and underneath the car and see if it's leaking oil, 3.5 quarts per oil change is a lot and it seems like it could have a leak. Just because you don't see oil on the garage floor or driveway doesn't mean it isn't leaking...it could be dripping on the subframe or something else and then when you drive it comes off.

Also do a compression test on the engine and post up some numbers.

 

No leak's i have lifted and checked the car many time's nothing very clean underbody.Anyways i change her oil every 5k useing mobil 1.Oh i have never seen the car smoke at all,i have driven behind it many time's????

 

with the price of oil, some thieves are stealing it out of engines and selling it
a careful thief will only steal a little at a time, so you don't notice!


Bwahhaha!
-just kidding
nah, it sounds like your rings... you may not be able to tell by the exhaust.
my old 1500S went threw the same or more- about a quart every tank of gas.

compression test will tell if that's the real problem.
i cant imagine anywhere else it could go -without dripping out or pooling somewhere?

 

also once you go synthetic DO NOT GO TO NORMAL...

and always use that same oil... mixing oils burn up faster... and someone was rightwith MOBIL 1 fully synthetic lin. they are second best oil you can buy (per the ball bearing tests from several different testers) amzoil was the leader by a long shot... but MOBIL1 did very well ... both will run you over $6 a qt


god luck

ps my cr runs great and i burn a little less than half a quart every 1000 ( dd over 600miles a week)

 

What would happen if we switched to regular oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmeg6118 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would happen if we switched to regular oil</TD></TR></TABLE>
Absolutely nothing. I've been racing Porsches for years and depending on who was paying the bills, that's what ended up in the sump. You should insist the prior poster provide a basis for his wife's tale.

 

Rings are probably done.

I'd go to regular conventional like Castrol GTX, because if its burning 3.5quarts, might as well not be paying an arm and a leg refilling it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mechanic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Absolutely nothing. I've been racing Porsches for years and depending on who was paying the bills, that's what ended up in the sump. You should insist the prior poster provide a basis for his wife's tale.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have been racing then the engine are being tore down and built consistantly, on a DD it totally matters... switching oils and mixing, changes the structure of the oil... there fore burning faster most likely.

but like someone else said, just use something cheap if its burning oil that fast.

 

[QUOTE=rewerbcrx] . . . if you have been racing then the engine are being tore down and built consistantly, on a DD it totally matters... switching oils and mixing, changes the structure of the oil... QUOTE]

Sir, I couldn't disagree more strongly with your opinion. I invite you and the OP to go to any motor oil manufacturers' webpages. ALL of them state their products are <U>fully compatible with conventional motor oil</U>. The only thing mixing synthetics with conventional motor oil does is reduce the properties of synthetics that most consumers seek: namely, the abililty of synthetics to continue to lubricate in extreme temperatures, both hot and cold. But there is nothing in 30 years of lubrication science to substantiate your position that mixing conventional and synthetic oils causes increased oil consumption.

 

I used to be a Mobile 1 user too...it burns quickly...try Royal Purple 5w-30...I'm using it right now and so far I have it in there for 3200 miles and it is still full...

 

Honestly I would do a leakdown and if the test isnt good then take it to the dealer. I hope they gave her some kind of warranty.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueshark123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly I would do a leakdown and if the test isnt good then take it to the dealer. I hope they gave her some kind of warranty.....</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, the OP could do this. It will cost him about $80 to discover his compression is within normal limits for an engine with 55k miles. Or he could spend $10 on a oil change and learn what countless others have already discovered: Mobil 1 is a well-known consumable lubricate.

OP: If you are still here, you can throw money at your problem or you can buy five quarts of Castrol 5w-30 and end it.

 

No warrenty ..

So switching to Castrol will be ok evan though the car has alway's had Molil -1???

 

Well if you wanted to be really **** about it you could drain the oil, drop the oil pan and get as much as you can get out, put the GTX in it, then drain again and drop the pan and get as much out as you can, then repeat lol.

But FYI, I used to run Mobil 1 5W-30 on my All Motor ITR, switched to GTX and everything was fine. Head actually looked a lot cleaner with it too not all gunky and gross with the Mobil 1. Granted switching oils isn't going to fix your problem, but it won't really hurt.

I'm gonna say the rings or valve seals are done. Best thing to do is just keep an eye on the oil all the time. At least that way it'll still run and not blow up or anything.

So you haven't seen any blue smoke? At idle, normal driving, or redline?

 

That sound's like a hectic job Im not that ****!!!

And no there is no sigh of any smoke!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmeg6118 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> . . . So switching to Castrol will be ok [even] though the car has alway's had Molil -1??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
In a word, yes. To beat a dead horse, any conventional oil is fully compatible with any synthetic. (Here again, if you doubt that, I urge you to visit any the synthetics' websites, such as Mobil.com, and read what they guarantee in writing.) And, no, you don't go through any special steps -- such as chanting over the valve cover, double-draining the oil pan, or anything else mentioned above -- before changing over to a conventional oil. Just pour the damn stuff in. I happen to like Castrol GTX because they sponsored my cars for years, and I trust the guys who created the additive package which I know was formulated specifically to resist oxidation (i.e., burning off). Other oils lubricate just as well, but Castrol's 5w-30 resists heat better than the other "majors". Finally -- which means I'm done with this tread -- you can spend as much as five times as much for some very expensive synthetics, but the potential gain for a street engine is, IMHO, illusory.

 

i always use motul fluids and why would u use oil thats not recomended by honda it says on your oil cap maybe u dont know how to read the dipstick or you should take it back to the dealer

 

No you idiot i can read the dipstick..

 

lol- Cannuck -check out all the Honda's he's had...
if he didn't know how to read the level on a dipstick it would read like this=
________________________________________
95 Civic DX 85k OG owner Flawless Love it!! (ENGINE FROZE UP FOR SOME REASON?)
91 Civic SI-missed (ENGINE FROZE UP FOR SOME REASON?)
93 Integra GSR-SOLD!! (ENGINE FROZE UP FOR SOME REASON?)
94 Civic EX-sold (ENGINE FROZE UP FOR SOME REASON?)
2000 HONDA CIVIC SI-sold (ENGINE FROZE UP FOR SOME REASON?)

Other car's i owned..98 Civic DX, 93 Integra LS, 92 Accord coupe LX, 90 Integra RS, 90 Accord EX,
(all had ENGINE FROZE UP FOR SOME REASON?)
89 Accord DX Flooded lol.
_________________
Honda's don't take kindly to not having their oil checked on a fairly regular basis

 

Lol that is great haha thank's for the back up man yea damn Cannuck im saving this post this is hillarious!!!


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