Type R Engine Rebuild (GoFightKill) Lots of Pics
This R like many other is worn out from a hard life and now it eats way too much oil. This is the 3rd on i have rebuilt in the car like this with excellent results. The only upgrades we did were ARP headstuds and supertec valvesprings. Everything else is done with OEM parts the way it should be. Enjoy!!
Dirty burnt oil stained head

#1 cylinder was the worst, notice the buildup on the valves

#1 cylinder was washed down due to blowby and excess unburned fuel

How 113k cylinder walls look

Torn apart R

Let the honing begin

fresh crosshatch


Fresh head all clean with valvejob and a fresh mill. so pretty


ARP studs and a new oem headgasket

torque the head correctly

DONE


He is breaking it in now. Another R motor saved. Thx for looking.
Dirty burnt oil stained head

#1 cylinder was the worst, notice the buildup on the valves

#1 cylinder was washed down due to blowby and excess unburned fuel

How 113k cylinder walls look

Torn apart R

Let the honing begin

fresh crosshatch


Fresh head all clean with valvejob and a fresh mill. so pretty


ARP studs and a new oem headgasket

torque the head correctly

DONE


He is breaking it in now. Another R motor saved. Thx for looking.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ Dialing her back in with the AEM on Monday or Tuesday.
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Was the hone strictly for cleaning and cutting in new cross-hatching so the rings could seat better?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Was the hone strictly for cleaning and cutting in new cross-hatching so the rings could seat better?
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been wanting that done on my R. so all that done is new head gasket, cyclinfer walls honned. Are the piston rings replaced, and i guess new timing belt water pump would be benifcial? as for the head all the valvetrain is new right? what exactly gets milled ?
thanks, like the write up
thanks, like the write up
im not familiar with the details of honing a block, but it looks like the crank was still in the block when honing. doesn't this lead to shaving falling down onto the crank and any other hole or crevice it can find its way into?
so, take off the head, take out the rods and pistons, hone, install rods and pistons, then head?
how do you remove the rods and pistons from the top, or did you?
so, take off the head, take out the rods and pistons, hone, install rods and pistons, then head?
how do you remove the rods and pistons from the top, or did you?
damn that thing looks nice Jordan. Saw it up at the shop the other day when I was gettin my car done.
to Redline SpeedShop. Red does great work at a very fair price.
to Redline SpeedShop. Red does great work at a very fair price.
It all went well. The hone is just available at any auto parts store for your bore. As for it getting on the crank, not a problem. The journals are all covered and cleaned thoroughly before install. The honing is to allow the rings to have a fresh surface to seat together. There are a lot of parts replaced. The valvejob and mill are necessary to have fresh surfaces so the engine feels like new. Any seals, gaskets, or o-rings you encounter along the way should be replaced. Thx for the compliments. Glad to help another R.
The first three oil changes showed no shavings of any kind, the magnet showed no shavings of any kind. Apparently it worked. 
Put 200 miles on it last night and this morning. Just got it off the dyno, we had it on there for a few hours load testing it in high RPM... ZERO smoke, the motor's running incredibly healthy. Did a new mild tune on the AEM, the car's running much better with the tune.
Going to give it another 500 miles, and retune it a little more aggressive. Should be about a week before EXPO.

Put 200 miles on it last night and this morning. Just got it off the dyno, we had it on there for a few hours load testing it in high RPM... ZERO smoke, the motor's running incredibly healthy. Did a new mild tune on the AEM, the car's running much better with the tune.
Going to give it another 500 miles, and retune it a little more aggressive. Should be about a week before EXPO.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">left the crank in when you honed?
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If you're doing an in-car overhaul, that's your most realistic option. Pulling the crank with the block in the car would be retarded, at that point you might as well pull the whole motor and do it on a stand ($$).
Nice to have a clean rear bumper for a change I'll bet. Have fun with it at Expo Jordan.
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you're doing an in-car overhaul, that's your most realistic option. Pulling the crank with the block in the car would be retarded, at that point you might as well pull the whole motor and do it on a stand ($$).
Nice to have a clean rear bumper for a change I'll bet. Have fun with it at Expo Jordan.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robfrmny21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what was the down time for this??</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha, they're well aware where my car was all week.
Glad to finally have it done. No more burnt oil smell at stop lights.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha, they're well aware where my car was all week.
Glad to finally have it done. No more burnt oil smell at stop lights.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thx for the props guys. Glad you liked the pics. They can be fixed at an affordable price as long as you just do what is neccesary. They are hondas so they run a long time anyways. this is just regular maintainance for R's.





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