-i need some help and figured i'd give this place a try. maybe someone here is smarter than myself.

so, this is for my TL1000....i haven't been blessed with great weather lately, its still snowing and the roads will be covered in sand till june. if it stops snowing. anyway, i took my TL out of the garage and bled the clutch master as the fluid was pretty baked and it was low in the resiviour. i also changed the oil/filter, removed galley plug and oil drain plug. filled with repsol. these 2 problems have arose....

1.with the clutch engaged, it seems to have a different "release point". just as its being let out, it seems very high on the lever. is there any way to change the way the clutch releases? i'm sorry, this is the only way without making a video on how to explain it.
-changed fluid and clutch feels weird. power comes on early in the release. no slipping under power, all gears engage smooth. i used a miti-vac and flushed the lines, i wasted alot of castrol SRF. no air in lines, i bled it twice.

2. i am no longer able to switch into neutral when motor is running. from 1st, impossible to go up into neutral. engine off, very easily. shifting up through gears is no issue, whether running or not, just neutral is giving me trouble.

-any ideas?

 

Have you readjusted the clutch cable or freeplay at all?

It sounds like your clutch might is stuck between engagement/disengagement and its making it hard for you to find neutral.

Likewise, the release point problem might remedy itself with freeplay adjustment

^^of course, a very basic answer... but you've got to start somewhere

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wesvailco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-i need some help and figured i'd give this place a try. maybe someone here is smarter than myself.

so, this is for my TL1000....i haven't been blessed with great weather lately, its still snowing and the roads will be covered in sand till june. if it stops snowing. anyway, i took my TL out of the garage and bled the clutch master as the fluid was pretty baked and it was low in the resiviour. i also changed the oil/filter, removed galley plug and oil drain plug. filled with repsol. these 2 problems have arose....

1.with the clutch engaged, it seems to have a different "release point". just as its being let out, it seems very high on the lever. is there any way to change the way the clutch releases? i'm sorry, this is the only way without making a video on how to explain it.
-changed fluid and clutch feels weird. power comes on early in the release. no slipping under power, all gears engage smooth. i used a miti-vac and flushed the lines, i wasted alot of castrol SRF. no air in lines, i bled it twice.

2. i am no longer able to switch into neutral when motor is running. from 1st, impossible to go up into neutral. engine off, very easily. shifting up through gears is no issue, whether running or not, just neutral is giving me trouble.

-any ideas? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't tell what you mean with the clutch engagement issue but maybe a better description would yield a better series of answers.

To get your bike into neutral, try rolling forward or backwards a couple feet. I couldn't explain the tech part of how the transmission goes into neutral easier this way, but it might work.

Oh, and I'm surprised you came back to this forum after all the **** you took a couple months back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quiks66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh, and I'm surprised you came back to this forum after all the **** you took a couple months back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm actually still expecting this to turn sour haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youradhere &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm actually still expecting this to turn sour haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

me too. i figured that this was my last resort before i asked a skilled mechanic, i assumed that someone here had some shop knowledge, works for a shop or someone that is way more skilled than i. also since its for the TL and not the ducati (warranty! FTW), i thought i'd get some grace.

-i tried rocking back and forth, no dice. it just wants to go into 2nd and by-pass neutral.

-i wish i could explain it better with the "release point" with the clutch lever. no cable, it got fluid. been reading the factory manual and there doesn't seem to be any adjustments. i don't know, maybe fluid is seeping past the piston in the clutch cylinder?

 

i'd help you but you live in Vail.

******* Vail.

 

You traded your 1098 for a TL...

-----------------------------------------------------------

As for your issues...

both One and Two, are desirable traits. I look for early release and engagement in clutch bite, AND not being able to find neutral is normal on a sequential transmission when the vehicle is STOPPED

 

Hows that for ugly... ugly

 

I know thw Tiller has a hydro clutch, so there may not be an adjustment on the throw of the lever. If the fluid was that cooked, then the clutch may have gone with it, which certainly could hold true on a bike with that much torque. This would explain the notchiness when trying to get into N.

I would try and find a shop manual, and read through the clutch bleeding/adjustment procedure, and make sure everything is setup correctly, and then go from there. Also, I'd put some miles on it, and see if everything falls back into place.

 

How about trying to rock the bike back and fourth to find neutral?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quiks66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't tell what you mean with the clutch engagement issue but maybe a better description would yield a better series of answers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What hes saying is when hes actually going to engage the clutch the clutch doesn't start "grabbing" until the clutch lever is almost let all the way out, as to where before the clutch would grab when the lever was closer to the handle instead of closer to the front of the bike. Just as in a car with the pedal. And what hes concerned or may be concerned is because its letting out where it is, that it may start to slip and wear out a clutch. He needs the clutch to engage earlier on the lever to make sure it doesn't cause problems in the near future.

I think that clears it up, you probably know what he means but he might have worded it weird or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youradhere &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you readjusted the clutch cable or freeplay at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

Clutch fluid change = no clutch cable

Hey Wes - small world - I didn't know you rode too.

It sounds like your friction plates are well worn which is why you can't find neutral when the engine is on.

 

There has to be a clutch pull/push rod adjustment on the bike.

 

OP... you are Wes Van?

If so then I appologies for jumping on you in the other thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MSchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You traded your 1098 for a TL...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

from what I get out of it, he owns both.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MSchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
both One and Two, are desirable traits. I look for early release and engagement in clutch bite </TD></TR></TABLE>

can i ask why?

-i haven't been able to really ride the bike at speed, only inside the parking structure, but i need alot more throttle now than i used too. maybe some miles will "break it in" better. my friend seems to think springs/clutch pak, but they have less than a 1000K. he also thought that the piston may be seeping fluid, because when its cold its "okay", hot its grabby. real grabby.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There has to be a clutch pull/push rod adjustment on the bike.</TD></TR></TABLE>

-that's what i thought? cant find it, on bike nor in the shop manual.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hey Wes - small world - I didn't know you rode too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

-sorry, i'm trying to put a name with a face? do you know me?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DirtySol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what I get out of it, he owns both.</TD></TR></TABLE>

-correctamundo.
i plan on taking the tiller to vegas (930 miles) in 3 weeks. the 1098 isn't really a cruiser, i have bags for the TL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wesvailco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the 1098 isn't really a cruiser

</TD></TR></TABLE>

no drag bike is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GraphiteAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no drag bike is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

assbag

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wesvailco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

-correctamundo.
i plan on taking the tiller to vegas (930 miles) in 3 weeks. the 1098 isn't really a cruiser, i have bags for the TL.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

930 miles is a hell of a haul for a TLR

That is an uncomfortable bike from the start, let alone riding it 1k miles at a time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DirtySol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
930 miles is a hell of a haul for a TLR

That is an uncomfortable bike from the start, let alone riding it 1k miles at a time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you'd be surprised, its way more comfortable than the 1098. the seat alone on TL makes it better. other benefits....

1. fuel mileage, the TL has longer legs.
2. weight. its almost 50LBS heavier than the 1098. head/cross winds....uneffected.
3. theft factor, i have full coverage on both....i'm just way more attached to the duca.
4. i have bags for the TL.
5. reliability. the duca has stranded me....twice.
6. it's a very FAST bike over distance. again.... mileage, comfort and speed.

 

That is one thing that I will never freaking understand about Ducati's.....they ALWAYS have such a small fuel tank. I can only go 135-140 miles per tank.

I still think you might have a sever case of tenderbutt when you get there. The TL's seat is still pretty harsh IMO.

 

are you having this neutral issue when youre at a stop or when you are riding too

as far as clutch adjustment i hear there is something you can adjust near the front sprocket to change that but thats just hearsay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wesvailco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i ask why?

-i haven't been able to really ride the bike at speed, only inside the parking structure, but i need alot more throttle now than i used too. maybe some miles will "break it in" better. my friend seems to think springs/clutch pak, but they have less than a 1000K. he also thought that the piston may be seeping fluid, because when its cold its "okay", hot its grabby. real grabby.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am still not sure of your exact symptoms... if its QUICK engagement, then that is to be expected from a performance clutch. Some of that can be adjusted out via the threaded adjusters at the lever(this will only adjust placement at the lever where the clutch begins to grab during lever travel) and at the piston if there is a hydraulic clutch and thread rod on that slowzuki. As far as the issue of grab placement in relation to the lever actuation, for me its better out farther because you really only want to feather the clutch very lightly to grab gears on sequentials...

if its a matter of extremely aggressive clutch bite, some of that will wear away as the clutch breaks in... One question, are they OEM springs in that clutch? if you went to performance springs, you can expect much more aggressive grab and lever pressures as part of the clutch retrofit.

As far as not being able to grab neutral at a stop, that's really fairly normal for a sequential transmission, especially one that has a modified clutch. What you need to do is hit neutral a split second before you put your RIGHT foot down at a stop... it's a timing issue and with a very slight blip of throttle at exactly the same moment you tickle that gear lever, your bike will gently slip into neutral as your foot taps the ground. IF your at a stop already, you can rock the bike back and fourth to get it to slip in(rock forward and backward).

Did this help or are we talking about something else here?


Modified by MSchu at 5:58 AM 5/15/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wesvailco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'd be surprised, its way more comfortable than the 1098. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There is nothing surprising about this...

 

-thanks. i think i'll just put a couple miles on it with the stand or riding around the parking garage. i wish for just 2 or 3 sunny days to rid the roads of this ice, slush and get traffic moving to blow the gravel off the roads. its pretty bad and i feel pathetic riding around the parking structure.

-but i'm thinking it really has to do with me not riding the bike and just not being used to it. the clutch was replaced last year and i haven't been really riding it, yes it has HD clutc pak and HD spring kit. maybe its just me....as for the neutral issue, i'll just deal with it. i just found it odd that these two issues just stemmed from an oil/fluid change.

again, thanks for the help. going to vegas, so i'm happy either way. bike or no bike. (never taken the bikes before, always wanted to. 2 harley's, 2 sport bikes, 1 car load of wimmenz. )