Has anybody used this stuff ? I keep hearing about this stuff on other forums and would like to try there motor treatment . has anybody had any experience with this product ? Or is it a waste of money ?

 

I used it, it made my valve stem seals leak. Do not put it in the crankcase. Run it in your gas and if you feel the need, bog the motor down by the brake booster line and let it sit for a bit then run it for 30 minutes. Make sure to change the oil after you do this.

 

Well this is where im getting confused , because im getting conflicting suggestions on when to change the oil ..... Some people are saying to change it afterwards and others are saying to drive it for about hundred kilometers or so ??? Did you notice much of a difference afterwards?

 

I wouldn't drive around for 100km's with something other than oil in my crankcase

 

seafoam is a load of crap.. if you want a clean engine, get it hot tanked. my old roomate heard from someone that it was a great idea, and he did it on his Eclipse GSX and his CRX, and both of those engines will never be the same again. The amount of crap that stuffs gets in your oil is rediculous. your piston rings will not seal properly afterward untill you replace them. I am sure there are plenty of people who disagree, but i have a D16A6 with a hole in the block to prove it..

here is a pic from the bottom of that block..





Modified by sanimalp at 6:38 PM 5/13/2008

 

I would bet you had some other problem that caused that. I know my dad and I didn't find out that you were not supposed to run seafoam in your engine for very long until after we ran it in his Jeep for something like 4 or 5 months! It still runs fine. I've been seafoaming cars for a while now and I'm still not really sure of the benefits of running it in your oil, so use at your own risk. Do not run it past 250 miles (400 km). Using it as an injector cleaner is amazing, put it in your gas tank, then poor it into a vacuum hose that supplies all cylinders. Rev your engine a little while you do this (not very high, maybe 3,000 rpm) to clear all of the carbon it breaks loose. <U>Do not just stick a vacuum hose in the can and let it suck it all up</U>, it doesn't do its job like that. If you run it 50/50 through an injector cleaner it does amazing stuff, you will make HUGE clouds of smoke. All in all that's probably when it works the best.

 

Seafoam is a great product when used properly.

I have never run it in the crankcase, but have used it loads of times in my fuel tank (once a year) and more importantly as a top engine cleaner. Warm up the engine, pull a small vacuum line and feed in about 1/2 of a can, try and kill the engine right as you get to the end of the 1/2 can. Pull the spark plugs and put about 1-2 oz in each cylinder. After the engine completely cools spin the engine over until no more fluid comes out of the spark plug holes, than replace the plugs and fire it up! Be aware that this will smoke like you wouldn't believe for up to a half hour.
I always change my plugs after the car stops smoking completely (sometimes takes a day or two).

If you want to clean the crankcase the best method is to use "Crankcase Flush" The stuff comes in a silver and red can you dump that in right before you change your oil, run for about an hour than change the oil run for a day or 2 then change it again.

 

ive heard so much **** about seafoam. ive used it a bunch of times, but i think ive used it right. i didnt pour a whole can in my crankcase or in my gas tank or anything. i used an i.v bottle with seafoam hooked to the vacuum from the brake booster to clean my fuel system and have soaked my intake mani, and actually sprayed some into the head (exhaust side) to free up some carbon. just like anything else, if you use it right, its not going to [freak] your car up.

 

So what kind of noticeable differences did you guys experience after using this treatment ?? Smoother idle , better gas millage etc.....??

 

better accell smoother idle ect..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what kind of noticeable differences did you guys experience after using this treatment ?? Smoother idle , better gas millage etc.....??</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by traxxasx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">better accell smoother idle ect..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes all of the above

Less oil consumption on my higher mileage cars

 

so with all said should i change the oil only if i put it in the crank case or should i do it even if i only do it in the gas and vacuum line?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRZ88DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so with all said should i change the oil only if i put it in the crank case or should i do it even if i only do it in the gas and vacuum line?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't put it in the crankcase. Changing the oil after running it through the top end is a good idea.

 

I used it on my CRX with a ZC swap. Good stuff in my opinion. There is a good write up on here that I followed. Smoother idle afterwards and I know it was a lot cleaner after creating a huge cloud of crap in my neighborhood.
Good stuff just use a third in the crank case, a third in the fuel tank, and a third through the brake booster. After running it through the brake booster drive around for half hour then change your oil. Thats the way I did it.

 

I used it... I will NEVER use it again.

 

just like everyone said use the seafoam in the vacume line and gas...

for the crank case go to your local auto parts store and look for a can that says
B12 Chemtool it will say its for oil and gas treatment...take half that can and dump it in the oil cap with the car off....then start it (note it will struggle to start but keep going til it does) then let idle for like 5 mins...turn off the car and then change your oil (you will see some sluge come out)...when changing the oil leave the oil pan open and pour a half quart of oil and let it flow to get all excess out...change the filter...tighten things up...add oil and your CLEAN
put the rest in the gas tank to clean it all out...

did this many times on my car (B16) and many others...on top of the oil change you will feel the car perform a lot better

Good Luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2tegsown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used it... I will NEVER use it again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why not?

 

I only did the gas treatment (I figured I would start there first), I poured in the amount that the directions indicated. I drove the car for like 2 days an noticed NOTHING, then I went to go start my car one morning (day 3) at first it wouldn't turn over, then it did but was idling like sh*t. After that LOTS of white smoke came from the exhaust, I mean LOTS, every time I touched the gas peddle the car would about stall. I had to let it run for about 30 mins before I could even drive it, now every time we have a super warm day, I start my car and it shakes and idles erratic until the oil gets flowing and the ECU smartens up. Now I am no way saying the Seafoam did this, however I never had this problem until Seafoam.

BTW the motor was a B16A2 (~80K Mi)

 

has anyone else had problems with valve seals after the seaffoam treatment? after i seafoamed my car it started smoking between shift points, so i changed the valve seals and now its all better, coincidence?

 

I'll never use sea foam again. Motor wasn't smoking before and now 2 weeks later its smoking blue smoke. I used the brake boosted method. I've used it before on other cars and didn't seam to help any way. It may not be the sea foam that did it but its just weird that after I do it my 62,000 mile Z6 swap decides to start smoking.