Just swapped in a 95 spec JDM ITR swap into a 94 Coupe. But it wont idle, its hard to get it to idle, and as soon as you tap the gas it will nearly die or want to die. It seems to be running very rich.

94 Civic DX Coupe
95 JDM ITR Swap (Complete) from Hmotors
Compression is all above 220
Timing is dead on (belt)
Rywire OBD1 to OBD-2A
Stock JDM ITR ECU (P73)
Rywire DX to ITR Subharness kit
I spliced the vtec oil pressure switch into the VTEC solenoid
Stock Dx harness (soldiered in OBD2 plugs for Alt, Dist, and all 4 injectors)

For the distributor I used this reference: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1876307
For wiring the rywire harness I used (ignore CX wiring, just used it fror wiring knock, vtec, and vtec oil pressure) http://rywire.com/store/faqdes...24404
The colors matched on the injectors
The alternator I used this as a reference: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2209901
For TPS adjustment I forrowed this (scroll down to the middle): https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2262690

What Ive tried:
swapping out injectors
swapping out Fuel pressure regulator
swapping out Idle air control
swapping out mass air sensor
swapping in the p06 ecu
swapping the crush gaskets on the fuel rail
TPS is set to spec
new plugs, wires, cap and rotor
Distributor worked on another car so its good

What i still need to look at/check:
out of idea

Help is greatly appreciated


Modified by USDM EG at 5:59 AM 5/16/2008

 

check your spark plug wires.. make sure you plug them in correctly..

is it producing alot of back pressure?

 

the spar4k plug wires are not in the best shape, but they work, and are plugged in correctly.

Im in the process of making sure the injectors are wired correctly.

 

well i think its the distributor. Time to try and find one now that I can borrow

 

swap the map sensor and the tps sensor connectors.. sounds like they're swapped.

 

When you find the problem shouldnt hmotors replace the part thats faulty. I thought thats how they worked. Sounds like a distributor problem tho. Maybe a pcm issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1990_integra_DA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you find the problem shouldnt hmotors replace the part thats faulty. I thought thats how they worked. Sounds like a distributor problem tho. Maybe a pcm issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, find out whats wrong with it and if something is broken give steve a call. he'll replace whatever that is broken.

 

the online warranty is only good if you replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt, tensioner and water pump.

The tps and map sensor are installed correctly, the wires for the tps do not reach the map. plus over the years, the harness is curvd in a way that the map sensor connection will only fit the map.

 

there was a 95 itr?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hoo my gosh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there was a 95 itr?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure 96 was the first year?

 

just an idea. Check all the grounds.. it wouldnt explain running rich, but when my cars grounds werent tight, it started, barely ran, and then didnt.

 

They had 95 ITRs in Japan

The engine harness ground is on, the valve cover ground is on, and the trans ground is on as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They had 95 ITRs in Japan

The engine harness ground is on, the valve cover ground is on, and the trans ground is on as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The sales/year structure for Japanese cars is different than in the US.

In Japan the EG civics are '1991-1994 models' IIRC not 1992-1995 like are are used to here in the US, I assume its the same way for the integra.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In Japan the EG civics are '1991-1994 models' IIRC not 1992-1995 like are are used to here in the US, I assume its the same way for the integra.</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct.

OP: what CELs are you throwing? (I'm betting there is one or two) Even if the light isn't on, check for CELs anyway.
Do you have the P73-003? or some other ECU?
Have you adjusted the idle screw the way the Helm says? (not just trying to get it to idle)
Have you checked ignition timing?
Have you checked the TPS voltage? (sensor gets bumped in shipping alot)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
correct.

OP: what CELs are you throwing? (I'm betting there is one or two) Even if the light isn't on, check for CELs anyway.
Do you have the P73-003? or some other ECU?
Have you adjusted the idle screw the way the Helm says? (not just trying to get it to idle)
Have you checked ignition timing?
Have you checked the TPS voltage? (sensor gets bumped in shipping alot)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not throwing any codes.
I have a p73, no sure what other numbers it has
I have not touched the idle screw, i cant even tap the gas ithout it dieing so i do not think it is the idle screw
i have not checked ignition timing
I adjusted the PS voltage, not sure if they were teh correct wires, but i got 4.5 on idle, and 45 on WOT...that doesnt make any sence

Does anyone kno what the wire colors are for the TPS to check TPS voltage?

 

well...to check the tps voltage one wire should be at 5 volts key on engine off thats your reference voltage. Then ones a ground i believe. and THen the other should be around .5 volts with the throttle plate closed and 5volts i believe at wot. I am not sure the wiring colors tho.

 

thats *** backwards. should be 4.5 @ wot and .5 closed

 

ill do some research tomorrow about it. I have a buddy comming over tomorrow to swap distributors and see what that does. I also ordered the parts I need to get the Hmotors warranty. So in a few days Ill be calling them

 

sometimes when u get jdm engines ive heard of them being half upgraded, like a guy i knew got a b16 with huge injectors and an extremely aggressive fuel map with low comp pistons, the car was prepped for turbo without any of the turbo, barely ran naturally aspirated, sometimes all the parts on the engine are not stock, something may have been changed that would give you a prob, not definate...... but just an idea

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have not touched the idle screw, i cant even tap the gas ithout it dieing so i do not think it is the idle screw</TD></TR></TABLE>idle screw adjustment doe not require touching the accelerator pedal, and if it's off it will cause throttle issues.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i have not checked ignition timing</TD></TR></TABLE>
at idle with the service jumper jumped
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I adjusted the PS voltage, not sure if they were teh correct wires, but i got 4.5 on idle, and 45 on WOT...that doesnt make any sence</TD></TR></TABLE>
it actually does, you had the wires switched. you tested between 5V reference and signal. You needed to check between ground and signal. (think 5V minus what you wanted)

 

ill check the valve lash too. the intake and exhaust covers have the words intake and exhaust writen on them...kind of funny when the motor coming from japan, dsont you you think it wpould be some type of symbols...? not english!?

Ok, so i put a good dizzy on my car and it still ran like crap, I put my dizzy on another car and it ran perfect

im going to check the tps voltage here, just have to look up which wires it is. (edit: honda-tech search is down)


Modified by USDM EG at 9:22 PM 5/13/2008

 

might sound stupid but have you tried changing the spark plugs?? every motor i have got from steve at hmotors worked out awesome, the b16 in my rex wouldnt fire first time we tried, changed the plugs and plug wires fired up the next try and has ran like a champ ever since and my other buddys b16 i got for him was the same way as you and it ended up being plugs also

 

ok, well i installed new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and nothing changed. Firing order is correct, injector clips are on correct (ive swapped them around a bit to see if anything would change...nothing)

 

well, i give up.

I hooked up an analog volt meter up to the cyl 1 injector and it is pulsing, so the injector isnt staying on. all i have left is to swap out the tps and see if mine is bad.

if i leave the map sensor unplugged it doesnt change anything..

 

is there a factory theft lock system. Sounds like an issue like that.