I have a Del Sol with a GSR peakboost set up. i am running the peakboost ac ramhorn manifold and had it hpcoated in black. i have changed out my radiator to an aluminum PWR radiator. i have changed my thermostat to a lower temp one. i am running distilled water with like 20% 50/50 and a bottle of water wetter and my tempatures rise unless i have the heat off. i am running hondata s300 and if i drive for about 20 minutes with the heat off the car will go up to 206 and then i turn the heat back on. if i leave the heat on the car will stay at 201.5. i have read that the stock thermoswitch comes on at 198 degrees so i have on ordered a buddy club thermoswitch which turns on at 176 but i dont see this making the difference? any advice?

 

1.) Are you 100% sure the radiator fan is blowing in the correct direction?
2.) Is your fan on all the time?
3.) Does the stock temp. needle move around (past the mid point)?
4.) What headgasket are you using?
5.) Do you have any pictures of you radiator area?

Having a car that hovers (if it holds steady) at 200* isn't normal even for a car with a bad headgasket or air bubbles in the system. Normal running temps is normal weather (say 70* air temp) should be closer to the 185* area. If I'm remembering correctly, the GSR thermostat opens at 160* so 198* is way too high. I know my OEM LS thermostat opens right around 160ish.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2
that is a link to my build thread with an updated picture

1.) i moved the fan from inside the engine bay to the other side while switching the wiring and turned it into a pusher fan that made no difference
2.)no the gsr thermoswitch is rated to turn on at 198
3.) yes it does move around some past the mid point
4.)brand new oem headgasket when i started the build with arp headstuds
5.) and pics are on my link above

yea it only holds steady at 201.5 with the heat on 2 so... and i put in the low temp thermostat from statracing.com its like 170 degrees i think

 

anyone?

 

98% of the time in most cases, overheating is a result of air in the coolant. try bleeding your system to get as much air out as you can. it usually takes me a good 20min of bleeding to get most of the air bubbles out.

also, make sure that your fan is working and turning on when it is supposed to. you will overheat if your fan does not turn on.

if none of these yields any positive results, i would see if removing your thermostat all together would make any diffrence.

i know these sound like common knowledge, but alot of times they are over looked.

 

Well if your thermostat is rated at 198, then 201 isn't bad at all to be holding steady at. It's not possible to be below 198 with that thermostat, so at this point you should definitely get another lower temp thermostat. Sounds like that will fix your problem.

 

where are you located?

 

shrouding off your A/C opening to redirect air to the radiator tends to help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if your thermostat is rated at 198, then 201 isn't bad at all to be holding steady at. It's not possible to be below 198 with that thermostat, so at this point you should definitely get another lower temp thermostat. Sounds like that will fix your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he is talking about the thermoswith is rated at 198. The sensor that cuts the fan on/off. The thermostat he is running is fully open at 170F.

To the OP i feel your pain. I've got almost the same setup. PWR radiator, full-race ac mani, 170 jackson racing thermo, its bleed fine, the fan is new and wired correctly. I've ran 100% H2O, 50/50 antifreez both with watter wetter doesn't matter. damn car still wants to run 200+ if it is hotter then 75F outside. The stock gauge never gets halfway but the radiator fan doesn't cut on/off like it does in the winter time. It runs 24/7 after it warms up in the summer....

 

i seem to be having the same thing happen in my integra....it's weird cause on a hot day my car will run colder than on a slightly colder day.... and at night the temp gauge doesn't even go up....

 

i see your running a slim fan, what is its CFM?

do you have it pushing, or pulling?

fans PULL a lot more efficiently than they PUSH.

so if you have ran fan INSIDE the engine bay, SUCKING, it will move a lot more air, especially with inertia working with you.

 

the fan was inside and ken peak at peakboost recommended running it as a pusher fan. i think he knows what hes talking about but it made no diff... i am concerned about this because i am trying to make this car a 400whp daily driver all day everyday and its a major setback. i want to be able to run the air conditioning and this not allowing me to. i am going to try the thermoswitch and see what that does. mayb air is restricted from getting to the radiator? i am located at cherry point marine corp air base in north carolina.

 

What happens when you try and run AC? I haven't connected all the lines to mine but was thinking about giving it a shot. Figured it would run a little bit hotter which would probably give me problems in traffic but I'm sure it would be fine if I was cruising on the interstate.

 

i havent charged the ac yet. also what about my hoses they are the oem hoses... they feel boiling hot.. is there something i can cover those with to make the heat not hit on them so hard?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedneckRicer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shrouding off your A/C opening to redirect air to the radiator tends to help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo. I had an overheating problem with my car and tried everything and the shroud really helped. Air tends to take the path of least resistance which in your case would be around the rad. Redirect the air through the rad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSolMarine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the fan was inside and ken peak at peakboost recommended running it as a pusher fan. i think he knows what hes talking about but it made no diff...</TD></TR></TABLE>


nice ride that **** a little harder...

i guess physics is wrong eh

good luck with your overheating "battle"... u still havnt mentioned your fans CFM and if its even close to stock flow. the block off plate will help you as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSolMarine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a Del Sol with a GSR peakboost set up. i am running the peakboost ac ramhorn manifold and had it hpcoated in black. i have changed out my radiator to an aluminum PWR radiator. i have changed my thermostat to a lower temp one. i am running distilled water with like 20% 50/50 and a bottle of water wetter and my tempatures rise unless i have the heat off. i am running hondata s300 and if i drive for about 20 minutes with the heat off the car will go up to 206 and then i turn the heat back on. if i leave the heat on the car will stay at 201.5. i have read that the stock thermoswitch comes on at 198 degrees so i have on ordered a buddy club thermoswitch which turns on at 176 but i dont see this making the difference? any advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Well i had a LS/VTEC turbo 88 Hatch and i did everything you did. I heat wrapped everything. Had a slim fan that was more efficeint. Had my fan on all the time! Got royal purple coolant assist! I got an aluminum radiator! I DID EVERYTHING!!

But let me ask you this.... Was your head milled prior to the build?? Or maybe your head was installed incorrectly (not tourqed correctly). Well the Problem for me was.... that the head was not milled and needed to be milled bad! So coolant would seap through and JUST A LITTLE BIT a day would go onto the piston/valves area! So..... i would loose coolant and the car would over heat!!!! I went crazy trying to find the problem! But when i pulled the head off, the head , the valves looked as if coolant had stained them that white ashy color.


Ended up milling and PROBLEM WAS GONE!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LS-VTEC-TURBO-EF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Well i had a LS/VTEC turbo 88 Hatch and i did everything you did. I heat wrapped everything. Had a slim fan that was more efficeint. Had my fan on all the time! Got royal purple coolant assist! I got an aluminum radiator! I DID EVERYTHING!!

But let me ask you this.... Was your head milled prior to the build?? Or maybe your head was installed incorrectly (not tourqed correctly). Well the Problem for me was.... that the head was not milled and needed to be milled bad! So coolant would seap through and JUST A LITTLE BIT a day would go onto the piston/valves area! So..... i would loose coolant and the car would over heat!!!! I went crazy trying to find the problem! But when i pulled the head off, the head , the valves looked as if coolant had stained them that white ashy color.


Ended up milling and PROBLEM WAS GONE!
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I too have the same heating problem like the OP. How do you check if water coolent is leaking into the piston and valve area? Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Poey2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I too have the same heating problem like the OP. How do you check if water coolent is leaking into the piston and valve area? Thanks

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Well, the way i eventually figured it out was that i was always having to top off the radiator like once a month. I was was like.... were is the coolant going lol. I had no leaks or anything. So if you have to constantly be putting water/coolant thats could be the problem.

 

ok so regarding the head milling... no i did not have my head milled but after i bled my system and topped off the overflow EVERYTIME it is always the same. My fan is used as a pusher fan and is the 12inch fan that you get with the peakboost kit. i am going to be getting hoses cut tonight to set up my catch can kit. could the catch can kit releasing pressing out of the head allow the temperatures to go down? the main problem is when i am drive on the highway. i was thinking about making a fan shroud as well for my ac because right now i do not have the ac charged and when i do i think that is going to be to hot. the fan shroud idea is a good one as well. i am going to see if i can get some stuff from home depot this weekend and make a fan shroud.

 

Get the head milled! Had same problem tried everything u did. got head milled problem went away.

 

listen to the guy who posted that baffle for his rad. i did that and my car ran cooler instantly.


o yeah another thing, ive been through this before with my car and it ended up being the water pump. what hapaned is somehow little rust bubbles formed on the impeller housing and was causing the pump to cavitate at higher RPM's inturn not pumping water worth a dam.


but if u dont have that baffle, put one in that guy knows what hes talking about.

p.s. its not the head.

 

its not the head and the waterpump is brand new... i think its the baffle probably as well

 

this doesnt make any sense to me.. it was my catch can set up that fixed it. i was running 199.2 on the highway at 70mph with the heat OFF and when i turned the heat ON it dropped to 196. i am still going to attempt to get the temperatures lower to the low 190's or 180's

 

i personally think half of this all is BS and the water temp sensor is wrong, my car runs at 200-210 regardless of temperature, i used to think it was a problem but the car is fine, also worth noting is i'm using aem ems with the serial data gauge which supposedly reads higher water temp numbers than its supposed to. whenever i think its too high i just look at the factory gauge and if its below half i dont mind.

i didnt see anywhere on here what the OP is using to monitor the water temp.