<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see your running a slim fan, what is its CFM?

do you have it pushing, or pulling?

fans PULL a lot more efficiently than they PUSH.

so if you have ran fan INSIDE the engine bay, SUCKING, it will move a lot more air, especially with inertia working with you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ding ding ding, ftw. People buy these little shitty “slimline” fans and they suck ***. At best 600cfm, go to summit and browse the fans, you will see that a 10 or 12 inch fan can be rated at 400-1600 and the more the merrier.

 

i am using hondata s300 on a laptop to monitor the water temperatures. i am thinking of getting an extra temperature gauge which reads with numbers to make it more accurate.

 

Question?????
What is better for a cooling system?

straight water?
straight antifreeze?
50/50 premixed coolant?
water with an additive?
50/50 premixed coolant with a additive?

Do these work?
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSolMarine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which reads with numbers to make it more accurate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hondata is/can be digital...

 

water disapates heat better than coolant. coolant has lubrication in it to prevent rust to the cooling channels around the block. alot of race teams run straight water.

I run 75 water 25 coolant. seems to work best with my setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ding ding ding, ftw. People buy these little shitty “slimline” fans and they suck ***. At best 600cfm, go to summit and browse the fans, you will see that a 10 or 12 inch fan can be rated at 400-1600 and the more the merrier. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're not putting all slim line fans in that shitty category correct?

 

slimline fans that come from the peakboost kit are 1600 cfm i have never seen a 600 cfm fan that was 12" the lowest i have seen is 1030 cfm and that was some POS from autozone.

 

i just wanted to add that i have added the buddyclub thermoswitch and it dropped my idling temperature of 201.5 to 187.8!!!!!

 

how does the thermoswitch work?

 

the thermoswitch is located in the thermostat housing. u unbolt it with a 15/16 (big wrench) and some coolant will come out. then you just bolt in the new thermoswitch it makes ur fan turn on at 176 degree which according to hondata it was saying mine was turning on at 187.8 which is weird.. but yea the stock thermoswitch for a gsr is rated to turn on at 198 degrees

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're not putting all slim line fans in that shitty category correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Notice the slimline is in quotations. Point is not all fans are created equal. He is some 12” from summit http://store.summitracing.com/...92709, cfm are from 800-3000. I’ve seen cheap fans advertised on H-T that are CDM style. Maybe you can get a good fan for $50, but in some places it’s ok to spend a few extra bucks.

 

I would run 50/50 unless you have some crazy set up.But correct me if i'm wrong but good grounds should help prevent against electrolysis and maybe he had a extreme case of already bad coolant or something crazy and the poor grounds just set it over the top

 

other people were trippin when I said my grounds were my issue, but it was an easy fix for me so that I can eliminate that part at least.

Bad ground maybe fan wasn't turning on at right time, or fan wasn't pulling or pushing hard enough...

good luck...

 

You could also wire the rad fan to a switch and run it constantly. This is what I did.
Heres the location I chose for the rad fan switch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could also wire the rad fan to a switch and run it constantly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or just loop the wires in the engine harrness that goes to the fan switch
Thats what I did...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSolMarine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the fan was inside and ken peak at peakboost recommended running it as a pusher fan. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i dont know if im reading this right, but do you have the fan pushing air while its located on the backside of the radiator....i think you should only be pushing air located on the frontside.

 

i had the same problem and it ended up being my gead gasket, a very small leak. u should take off the head and just check.

 

When looking at fans, whats a good cfm??? Is 3000 overkill?

 

no antifreeze and redline water wetter will work best. Antifreeze actually makes the coolant mixture less efficient, and since there is no chance of freezing here in FL there is no need for it. Straight water would be best for cooling, but worse for corrosion and lack of lubrication for the water pump. The red line water wetter provides corrosion protection, and lubrication without sacraficing much efficiency.

 

I had the same problem and solved it by putting a piece of cardboard over the open A/C portion (next to the radiator) like someone did on pg1.

When i installed my turbo I took out the factory piece that blocked the air, thinking it would allow more to come in and cool better, well the air got it, but it wasn't going through the radiator in the process.

If you haven't done that yet. try it and see what happens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no antifreeze and redline water wetter will work best.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, I drained my coolant and filled it with distilled water and some water wetter, wasn't able to get all the antifreez out (some still in the block) but I did get about 95% of it... Filled it back up with water & water wetter, bled it, and it still gets to a temp of about 200-205ish..... The only differance it made is that now it takes longer to heat up to that temp, plus my fan is weak so I know thats more than likely the problem...

So any body know whats a good cfm when looking to buy a fan????

 

1000cfm or more.

 

Just a thought, but could this problem be outside of the cooling system? It would seem that there is way too much heat soak, which could be engine related. Was this after you got it tuned? When was the last time that it wasn't overheating?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scheizty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a thought, but could this problem be outside of the cooling system? It would seem that there is way too much heat soak, which could be engine related. Was this after you got it tuned? When was the last time that it wasn't overheating?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to say to little or to much ignition timing causing the overheating. doesnt take much to really heat up an engine with timing. Also your turbo components will drastically heat up when you go from 1200 to over 1600 exhaust gas temps in a heart beat and at that point your heat soaked under the hood and its not going to cool for ****.

Ive found even though its the ghetto way that spacing the hood AKA the ghetto cowel helps drastically in lowering under the hood temps which for me dropped my coolant temps a good 12 degrees at idle and 6 cruzing

Other then that id say youve got a gasket issue which on hondas will not really show any signs other then what your experiencing right now. The cooling fan should be on the inside as a puller to be most effective. Running cooler thermostats is not a good idea. the engine is designed to run at 190 ish and if your trying to keep it cooler will always run on warmup enrichment. the coolant fan turning on eariler is fine though.

 

i put a piece of plexi glass between the radiator and the ac condenser which in turn should be leading the air either thru the radiator or the ac condenser. my idling temperatures have been fine so i am not to concerned with that its the highway temperatures that have been acting up.. it seems to be doing better after the plexiglass was put in but i have no been able to do my normal drive from north carolina to virginia to get the full effect. i am going this weekend so i will let everyone know how adding the clear plexiglass did. people have run there fan as a pusher all the time and it has worked fine... i am trying to get it run at 190. it is idling at 188 but i just want it run under 200 when im going 70 mph on the highway without having to turn the heat on

 

when i first did my boost setup my car overheated cuz i had the fan on backwards but i guess thats irrelevant becuase he figured out his problem