New paint job. Needs buffing, polish, and wax. Help.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: California
New paint job. Needs buffing, polish, and wax. Help.
Hey guys, my car just got out of the paint shop. I notice some parts of the car feel rough. I suspect this being overspray. And it looks rather dull. I plan to give this car a full detailing service myself. I've read a few forums and still confused. I have my eyes set on the porter-cable 7424 to do the work with lake country pads. here's what I have planned:
1. wetsand rough areas with 3m 12-1500 grit sandpaper. Then do the whole car with 2000 grit.
2. Buff out the scratches (what pad do I use and what buffing compound?)
3. Apply polish (what pad do I use and what polishing compound?)
4. Apply sealant (what pad do I use and what sealant compound?)
5. Then finally wax (what pad do I use and what wax compound?)
I really want this car to stand out. Theres a little orange peel but not bad. BTW, the paint is about a week old. I will wait another 2 weeks until the paint fully cures but I want to know how to do these things before I get at it. and for each of the steps above, what speed should the tool be set to? Help.
Modified by zerovandez at 1:55 AM 5/6/2008
1. wetsand rough areas with 3m 12-1500 grit sandpaper. Then do the whole car with 2000 grit.
2. Buff out the scratches (what pad do I use and what buffing compound?)
3. Apply polish (what pad do I use and what polishing compound?)
4. Apply sealant (what pad do I use and what sealant compound?)
5. Then finally wax (what pad do I use and what wax compound?)
I really want this car to stand out. Theres a little orange peel but not bad. BTW, the paint is about a week old. I will wait another 2 weeks until the paint fully cures but I want to know how to do these things before I get at it. and for each of the steps above, what speed should the tool be set to? Help.
Modified by zerovandez at 1:55 AM 5/6/2008
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From: Des Moines, IA
hmm im not complete detail guy, but i ONLY used the 3m polish, they make good ones, and turtle scratch and swirl remover, and wax, but i would recommnd the steps u use, it wil be better
i think mother or meguire ahve those 10 step polish to wax thing, jsut to local auto sttores, the bottle should number from 1-9 i think, just pick out 5 of those, u dont need all 9 its gonna look aout same, and i would buff in a hot and sunny day but do it in shade, have a lot clean towls or shop paper towl to wipe off polish/wax when done buffing, i heard u can use a wet t shirt too, but i just used towel and go over with a wet t shirt, good luck, research more, do it right since u got a nice paint job
u can go my link thats how my paint job came out, "my 50 dollar paint job progresss"
i think mother or meguire ahve those 10 step polish to wax thing, jsut to local auto sttores, the bottle should number from 1-9 i think, just pick out 5 of those, u dont need all 9 its gonna look aout same, and i would buff in a hot and sunny day but do it in shade, have a lot clean towls or shop paper towl to wipe off polish/wax when done buffing, i heard u can use a wet t shirt too, but i just used towel and go over with a wet t shirt, good luck, research more, do it right since u got a nice paint job
u can go my link thats how my paint job came out, "my 50 dollar paint job progresss"
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From: Parrish, FL
Re: (Civic_4life)
Zaino bros is the best wax I've ever used. Ferrari and Lambo owners swear by it, and I do too. http://www.zainobros.com
As for polishes and compounds, 3m is good, but check out http://www.classicmotoring.com for different compounds, glazes, pads, etc.
I spent about 8hrs buffing my old 350z, and that was just 2 compounds. I never got around to the super fine polish, but it took ALL the swirl marks out.
I can tell you, if the paint doesn't shine, and the clearcoat on it is bad, doesn't matter how much buffing you do, it'll still look lousy.
As for polishes and compounds, 3m is good, but check out http://www.classicmotoring.com for different compounds, glazes, pads, etc.
I spent about 8hrs buffing my old 350z, and that was just 2 compounds. I never got around to the super fine polish, but it took ALL the swirl marks out.
I can tell you, if the paint doesn't shine, and the clearcoat on it is bad, doesn't matter how much buffing you do, it'll still look lousy.
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From: WA
Re: (Civic_4life)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic_4life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm im not complete detail guy, but i ONLY used the 3m polish, they make good ones, and turtle scratch and swirl remover, and wax, but i would recommnd the steps u use, it wil be better
i think mother or meguire ahve those 10 step polish to wax thing, jsut to local auto sttores, the bottle should number from 1-9 i think, just pick out 5 of those, u dont need all 9 its gonna look aout same, and i would buff in a hot and sunny day but do it in shade, have a lot clean towls or shop paper towl to wipe off polish/wax when done buffing, i heard u can use a wet t shirt too, but i just used towel and go over with a wet t shirt, good luck, research more, do it right since u got a nice paint job
u can go my link thats how my paint job came out, "my 50 dollar paint job progresss"</TD></TR></TABLE>
whatever you do, don't listen to this guy^ Turtle wax polish? Wiping off polsih and wax with shop paper towels? Please do erveryone a favor and dont post about paint care again.
3M makes some decent polishes, as does Meguiars (dont bother with the THREE step *not 10 step* stuff, its garbage), and other brands such as Menzerna (best you can get IMO) and pinnacle.
it sounds like you beed a wetsand, polish and wax. I would go with Meguiars #105 after wetsanding, followed by Menzerna SIP, and followed by Menzerna 106ff for added depth and gloss. then top with whatever wax/sealant you like.
And yes, I say those same products in nearly every thread. Why? because they work.
i think mother or meguire ahve those 10 step polish to wax thing, jsut to local auto sttores, the bottle should number from 1-9 i think, just pick out 5 of those, u dont need all 9 its gonna look aout same, and i would buff in a hot and sunny day but do it in shade, have a lot clean towls or shop paper towl to wipe off polish/wax when done buffing, i heard u can use a wet t shirt too, but i just used towel and go over with a wet t shirt, good luck, research more, do it right since u got a nice paint job
u can go my link thats how my paint job came out, "my 50 dollar paint job progresss"</TD></TR></TABLE>
whatever you do, don't listen to this guy^ Turtle wax polish? Wiping off polsih and wax with shop paper towels? Please do erveryone a favor and dont post about paint care again.
3M makes some decent polishes, as does Meguiars (dont bother with the THREE step *not 10 step* stuff, its garbage), and other brands such as Menzerna (best you can get IMO) and pinnacle.
it sounds like you beed a wetsand, polish and wax. I would go with Meguiars #105 after wetsanding, followed by Menzerna SIP, and followed by Menzerna 106ff for added depth and gloss. then top with whatever wax/sealant you like.
And yes, I say those same products in nearly every thread. Why? because they work.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,345
Likes: 5
From: California
thanks erok. I've been following your post closley looking for clues.
What pads would I use for those different compounds?
This Menzerna stuff is expensive! Is there a cheaper solution with similar results using meguires professional line up?
Modified by zerovandez at 2:31 AM 5/6/2008
What pads would I use for those different compounds?
This Menzerna stuff is expensive! Is there a cheaper solution with similar results using meguires professional line up?
Modified by zerovandez at 2:31 AM 5/6/2008
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EPIC TUNING
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From: WA
Re: (zerovandez)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks erok. I've been following your post closley looking for clues.
What pads would I use for those different compounds?
This Menzerna stuff is expensive! Is there a cheaper solution with similar results using meguires professional line up?
Modified by zerovandez at 2:31 AM 5/6/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is a little pricey but it is definately worth it. I have some optimum polishes and compounds which produce very good results, but they have a much longer working time so you will be doing more polishing to achieve the results. but they are a good bit cheaper.
as for pads, I would get a yellow one for compounding, orange for medium polishing, and a white for final polishing. and then a blue one for your wax/sealant.
the PC is good but id look into the UDM (ultimate detailing machine), its got a little more bite. of course the best choice is to step up to a rotary but it takes a little more practice. everyone talks about burning paint but if you keep the RPM's uner 2k and you keep it moving you won't have a problem. but a DA will give you acceptable results it will just take a little more time.
Heres what you can try:
1. Optimum Hyper Compound - Orange LC pad - PC at full speed (6) you will probably have to put some pressure on it as well to build up some heat. It will
take some time to break the polish down so BE PATIENT. This will remove most defects and is the most aggressive product I would use on a DA polisher.
2. Optimum Polish - White LC pad - PC at speed 5. Again it has a long work time so be patient. Chances are you wont work it long enough, so keep working it.
3. Meguiars #21 Synthetic Sealant - Blue LC pad - PC at speed 1. spead evenly, let dry, wipe off. this product makes a chemical bond and lasts a VERY long time. You can also top with your choice of NON CLEANER wax. cleaner wax will remove the sealant. apply the wax by hand with a small foam pad.
What pads would I use for those different compounds?
This Menzerna stuff is expensive! Is there a cheaper solution with similar results using meguires professional line up?
Modified by zerovandez at 2:31 AM 5/6/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is a little pricey but it is definately worth it. I have some optimum polishes and compounds which produce very good results, but they have a much longer working time so you will be doing more polishing to achieve the results. but they are a good bit cheaper.
as for pads, I would get a yellow one for compounding, orange for medium polishing, and a white for final polishing. and then a blue one for your wax/sealant.
the PC is good but id look into the UDM (ultimate detailing machine), its got a little more bite. of course the best choice is to step up to a rotary but it takes a little more practice. everyone talks about burning paint but if you keep the RPM's uner 2k and you keep it moving you won't have a problem. but a DA will give you acceptable results it will just take a little more time.
Heres what you can try:
1. Optimum Hyper Compound - Orange LC pad - PC at full speed (6) you will probably have to put some pressure on it as well to build up some heat. It will
take some time to break the polish down so BE PATIENT. This will remove most defects and is the most aggressive product I would use on a DA polisher.
2. Optimum Polish - White LC pad - PC at speed 5. Again it has a long work time so be patient. Chances are you wont work it long enough, so keep working it.
3. Meguiars #21 Synthetic Sealant - Blue LC pad - PC at speed 1. spead evenly, let dry, wipe off. this product makes a chemical bond and lasts a VERY long time. You can also top with your choice of NON CLEANER wax. cleaner wax will remove the sealant. apply the wax by hand with a small foam pad.
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From: A curious place in WA
Re: (E-Rok)
^^^ I wouldnt put wax or any other type of sealant on a freshly painted car until all the solvents in the paint and clear has evaporated, usually it takes about 60-90 days depending on climate. The reason why you dont want to do it before then is the sealants will actually prevent the solvents from escaping the surface and will in turn result in solvent pop, and the only way to remedy that is to sand it down and repaint...just a heads up 
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From: WA
Re: (DA_teg04)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_teg04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ I wouldnt put wax or any other type of sealant on a freshly painted car until all the solvents in the paint and clear has evaporated, usually it takes about 60-90 days depending on climate. The reason why you dont want to do it before then is the sealants will actually prevent the solvents from escaping the surface and will in turn result in solvent pop, and the only way to remedy that is to sand it down and repaint...just a heads up </TD></TR></TABLE>
ahhh I forgot this was fresh paint, good lookin.
</TD></TR></TABLE>ahhh I forgot this was fresh paint, good lookin.
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From: A curious place in WA
Re: (E-Rok)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ahhh I forgot this was fresh paint, good lookin.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yessur
ahhh I forgot this was fresh paint, good lookin.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yessur
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From: A curious place in WA
Re: New paint job. Needs buffing, polish, and wax. Help. (zerovandez)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. wetsand rough areas with 3m 12-1500 grit sandpaper. Then do the whole car with 2000 grit.
2. Buff out the scratches (what pad do I use and what buffing compound?)
3. Apply polish (what pad do I use and what polishing compound?)
4. Apply sealant (what pad do I use and what sealant compound?)
5. Then finally wax (what pad do I use and what wax compound?)
BTW, the paint is about a week old. I will wait another 2 weeks until the paint fully cures...
Modified by zerovandez at 1:55 AM 5/6/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh and ps...you dont need to wait that long to do steps 1-3, as soon as its done baking you can pretty much start cutting and buffing, but usually i like to let get back to room temp and or let it sit overnight. But as for steps 4-5 wait a good 3 months
1. wetsand rough areas with 3m 12-1500 grit sandpaper. Then do the whole car with 2000 grit.
2. Buff out the scratches (what pad do I use and what buffing compound?)
3. Apply polish (what pad do I use and what polishing compound?)
4. Apply sealant (what pad do I use and what sealant compound?)
5. Then finally wax (what pad do I use and what wax compound?)
BTW, the paint is about a week old. I will wait another 2 weeks until the paint fully cures...
Modified by zerovandez at 1:55 AM 5/6/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh and ps...you dont need to wait that long to do steps 1-3, as soon as its done baking you can pretty much start cutting and buffing, but usually i like to let get back to room temp and or let it sit overnight. But as for steps 4-5 wait a good 3 months
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,345
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From: California
Very awesome info from everybody! I guess the hard part now is selecting my tools. I'm leaning more towards a rotary polisher. I'm not an idiot and I can trust my self enough not to burn the paint.
Can anyone list the speed the rotary polisher needs to be at for each step?
Can anyone list the speed the rotary polisher needs to be at for each step?
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From: WA
Re: (zerovandez)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very awesome info from everybody! I guess the hard part now is selecting my tools. I'm leaning more towards a rotary polisher. I'm not an idiot and I can trust my self enough not to burn the paint.
Can anyone list the speed the rotary polisher needs to be at for each step?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I start out slow (800rpm or so) to spread it, and then anywhere from 1500-1800 for polishing. basically just go in a up down side to side pattern with it, its easy (IMO).
I only use my PC for applying waxes now.
Can anyone list the speed the rotary polisher needs to be at for each step?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I start out slow (800rpm or so) to spread it, and then anywhere from 1500-1800 for polishing. basically just go in a up down side to side pattern with it, its easy (IMO).
I only use my PC for applying waxes now.
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From: WA
Re: (zerovandez)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought you suggested to apply wax by hand?</TD></TR></TABLE>
only when topping it over sealant.
only when topping it over sealant.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: California
Re: (chimmike)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I can tell you, if the paint doesn't shine, and the clearcoat on it is bad, doesn't matter how much buffing you do, it'll still look lousy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How can I tell if my new clearcoat is bad? It's fresh paint out of the shop. It just looks rather dull.
How can I tell if my new clearcoat is bad? It's fresh paint out of the shop. It just looks rather dull.
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From: WA
Re: (zerovandez)
yea I would wetsand that first, but you will most likely need to compound it before polishing so I would look into a rotary.
Meguiars #105 + wool pad and you might be able to go straight to the Menzerna 106ff with a white pad. #105 is known for great cutting abilities while being one of if not THE best finishing compound on the market.
Meguiars #105 + wool pad and you might be able to go straight to the Menzerna 106ff with a white pad. #105 is known for great cutting abilities while being one of if not THE best finishing compound on the market.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: California
as for how the paint looks now, do you think it can look better or am I just wasting my time? I don't want to spend all this money and effort if it will look the same. as someone stated above, it can be bad clearcoat. have you seen anything like my pictures above?
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Re: (DDEVIANT1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate to say this, but take it back to the shop that painted it and tell them to finish their job?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
good point
good point
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: California
finish their job as in have them do the buffing and polishing?
Or, finish their job as in redo the finish?
I didn't rush them to finish. Seeing that they didn't buff etc makes me wonder if they're were in a rush to finish other things. So instead of having them "rush" buff my car, I'd rather take the time to do it myself.
regarding those photos, does the paint look really bad?
Or, finish their job as in redo the finish?
I didn't rush them to finish. Seeing that they didn't buff etc makes me wonder if they're were in a rush to finish other things. So instead of having them "rush" buff my car, I'd rather take the time to do it myself.
regarding those photos, does the paint look really bad?
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From: Fa Cough, PA
Re: (zerovandez)
paint shops are not required to wetsand and buff a car. That is usually extra. They should however not have left the paint rough. They should nip and buff at the very least. That means get out any runs, dirt, etc. Your clear is VERY dull for a fresh paint job. What kind of paint did they use? I want to attempt to wetsand and polish my car as well. There is some orange peel but I want my paint smooth like glass but dont want to pay extra money for them to do it. I have a dewalt rotary and just ordered all 6 of lake country ccs pads. Here is a pic of my paint straight from the booth.
Modified by mikeycivic at 9:41 PM 5/6/2008
Modified by mikeycivic at 9:41 PM 5/6/2008