hi

i originally put this on g2ic, but am copying it here to help add DA stuff to the FAQ.


The car has since been on about 5 or 6 trackdays, and spent nearly 2 years being hammered across some of Wales's roughest toughest B-roads (you'll know what i mean if you read "Evo" magazine), with no sign of fatigue as of yet (touch wood). The car is running 450ff 400rr.

here goes:


(Sorry for the shitty phone pics BTW., and you might need to convert to imperial...)


Hardware:

2x M8 x 120 Hex Headed Bolts, or a metre of M8 thread hacksawed to 120mm
lengths.
2x M6 x 30mm Hex Headed Bolts
4x M8 hex nuts and 4x M8 Nylocks
2x 8mm by 40mm Repair Washers (big flat washers)
10 pack of normal 8mm flat washers
2x M6 flat washer

1st i made four shims up from some scrap extruded aluminium using a cutting/grinding disk, to help with positioning the bar right, getting the drop links nr vertical, and spreading the loading:




The shims were 1/4" thick, 1" x 3.5" with the bolt holes drilled 2.625 apart (got the shim measurement from a kit for the DC here > http://geocities.com/bretq/swaybar_install.html - the DA needs much thicker shims though). If i were to make them again, I'd also round the corners off one corner to help with re-locating the ABS brackets afterwards. After the guide holes were drilled I used an 8mm drill.




whilst there I cut/ground out some spacers, as i wasn't sure how the shims would sit.

http://img.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/alb...9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/alb...0.jpg


I jacked the car and stuck it on axle stands, then removed the rear box and old sway bar (although i left the L-brackets there in case i messed something up - the bolts looked like they'd snap before they'd come loose). Then the ABS brackets came off. I didn't see the need to remove the gas tank either, whilst a little fiddly my car had enough room to get my hands in behind the subframe from the side.

I decided to use the existing threaded inboard ABS bracket mounts, rather than drill them out and tap them, so next I used the M6 x 30mm bolts to hold the shims against the body, line them up vertically and then use the top bolt holes as guides to drill the subframe. You'll need a long bit to get through the far side of the subframe. I deliberately used a 7mm bit and then tapped the holes using the M8 bolts and a socket, to help reduce movement.

Next I bolted the new ITR sway's droplinks/endlinks into the LCAs, and then after some examination of what was going to sit best, ended up using 2 big plate shims on each side, and only washers, with none of the little round spacers I made. Oh well

NOTE: My ITR bar came with droplinks, and the DA6 LCA is v. similar to the ITR LCA.
For US spec DAs, you may need either the ITR LCAs as well, or an aftermarket LCA with mounting points to suit the ITR bar. Without having seen a US spec LCA, I can't say for sure.


At this point I discovered the M8 100mm bolts I'd bought were too short, and went off for a near 2hr bike ride round the local hardware stores trying to find longer ones - in the end my only option was a metre of M8 thread.

I cut this into 2x 120mm lengths, and used 1x std and 1x nylock together as a locknut to create a head on the 2 lengths.

I found the best seating was:

top bolt:
bolt (now a 120mm length of thread with locknut) > M8 washer > D-bracket > 2x 1/4" thick shims > Subframe > REPAIR WASHER > hex nut & nylock nut as locknut.

I think its important to mention here that the subframe wall thickness is THIN. Make sure you use the big repair washer on the other side of the subframe to spread the tension across a big area. Also do not tighten it too hard as the subframe will flex inwards - instead tighten it slightly so it's fixed firmly & there's no movement, then use the locknut to prevent it coming loose.

bottom bolt
M6 bolt > M6 washer > M8 washer > D-bracket > M8 washer > 2x 1/4" shims > M8 washer > Subframe

Be careful not to overtighten this one and strip the thread.


Next, (if you have ABS) you'll need to do some nifty one handed grinding; hold the ABS brackets with some pliers or grips, and then carefully remove lots of material where the old inner bolt used to go though. Try not to grind through the ABS lines :worry: This will allow you to re-mount them, angled down, using just the old outer bolts.


And you're done:




As well documented, this will make a HUGE difference to your car's handling. I went straight out and did a little mix of stuff - the car felt much more stable & less twitchy at high speed (something i WASN''T expecting given that it was being tuned for more oversteer). For quick back roads (3rd gear corners) the car was awesome - not only was roll markedly less, but the car felt much better balanced front to back, and flooring it through those turns the car just pulled itself out with no hint of understeer or needing to back off. I'm a happy man, looking forward to more trackdays...


Some final points - my car is running a rear lower tie brace and upper strut brace. It's also running quite high rear spring rate 400rr . I would suggest that you want to be running at least the lower brace, and a fair bit higher than std rates for this mod, as low standard rear rates could allow much more twist on the bar. This could maybe cause tear issues. Mine's been hammered so far with no ill effect though


Modified by boma23 at 1:52 PM 4/29/2008


Modified by boma23 at 1:58 PM 4/29/2008


Modified by boma23 at 2:01 PM 4/29/2008


Modified by boma23 at 8:07 AM 4/30/2008

 

Nice write up.

Add this to the thread stickied at the top of the page.

 

Nice indeed.