well after all those stuffs i went through wit my lude(99 SH) i put new tranny in, new clutch and flywheel, after all that is done when i got my car back i found out that the rpm needle is acting very funny: in neutral whenever i step on the gas the rpm just bouncing up and down around 3-5K, when i let go the gas it go back to normal.....then when i step on the gas too hard, the rpm bouncing up and down at around 5-7k then check engine light on, speed needle go up then came back down to 0...
when i drive it do the same too...... anyone here have experienced that problem be4 or know how to fix it???? thanks alotsss

 

sounds like you probably left the ecu ground either off or loose on the thermostat housing.

 

where do i check for that ECU ground??? i think my thermostack is tighten enough though

 

thermostack?

are you kidding me?

you can't read?

There is a ground wire the attaches to the thermostat housing.

 

my bad dude...sorry for spelling that word wrong, btw i think the ground wire is connected already...any other idea why??

 

Check your ignition control module...?

 

ok i had a problem like this with my tach. it would bounce like crazy. especially after 5k. eventually it stopped working completely. to fix, i pulled the distributor cap, and noticed that the green wire to the icm was loose. after that it worked perfectly.
so pull the cap, check the connections.

 

bump, having very similar issue but no CEL. tach use to bounce and has stop, car runs fine though. will check later on today

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tatvietboiluvu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my bad dude...sorry for spelling that word wrong, btw i think the ground wire is connected already...any other idea why??</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol I just thought that was hilarious

anyways...orange: you wouldn't get a CEL for a problem like this. Like justin ^^ said, check the ICM wiring, also check the grounds. The ecu ground is the most important here. If you can, try swapping out the ICM or the entire dist if you can find one.

 

well i open the distributor cap by unscrew 3 screws around it, i could pull the cap out, but i have no access to the wiring... so i have to open that whole parts inside that cap in order to check all the wire???? i checked all my wires and ground already.......everything look like they connected..... any more ideas???? thanks

 

see above image.

 

i took it out and checked all the wire in there... i tried to drive to autozone to get the scanner to get the code but it came out pass cuz my CEL wasn't on but then on the way back home the engine started to die... the car rpm was dropping down to 0 and die......i just put new spark plug in and nothing happened...any help???? should i get a new distributor????man i don't know waht to do now...... this driving me nut..can't sleep at nite cuz thinkin about this

 

I would say you need a new ICM altogether. Just to be on the safe side I would NOT buy one from AutoZone. I put one of their DuraCRAP ICMs in my car just too see if it fixed my intermittent RPM bounce and I didn't make it more than a block from my house without it killing on me. Would not start until I disconnected the battery for a little while, Was barely able to drive it back home, but I made it home and put the original ICM back it and ran 100x better. The only after market ICMs I would trust is the brands NAPA deals with. Its a little more pricey but you definitely get what you pay for.

 

i'm so tired of this....just borrow the scanner from autozone and they give me 6 codes: p0300, p0301,p0302,p0303,p3034,p1399..... so i'm thinking about buying the new distributor and and the new ignition wires....hope it gonna work out....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump, having very similar issue but no CEL. tach use to bounce and has stop, car runs fine though. will check later on today

</TD></TR></TABLE>

so i pulled my cap off and there is a big black cover preventing me from gaining access. luckily i could reach in and i felt the blue wire disconnected, so i connected it and all is well.

curious how you would get the black inside plastic cover off to swap the igniter for future reference.

 

there was one screw there but u need to turn it to the right place so u can take it out then take that black cover out(used #2 philip screw driver)
any one here have that problem b4????

 

anyone help me here?? i changed my distributor cap, ingnittion wires but still the same problem.......

 

ahhhh.... any help here guys???? i haven't been driving my baby for like 2 months now..................what should i do now???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
curious how you would get the black inside plastic cover off to swap the igniter for future reference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you pull the rotor off? 1 screw holds that in, then pull the rotor off. You might need a new rotor if it's hard to pull off, I've destroyed them before when they're sticky.

tatviet- find a friend with the same motor, try swapping distributors and ECU's to see if one of those is the problem.

I have a spare igniter and dizzy parts I'd let you try if you were here. Probably some stock H22 ECU too.

I had random jumping tach issues and a misfire, caused by a loose wire on the igniter.

 

Get a new Dizzy... Happen to me a month ago!!! Bought one from distrubutor king for $207.00! Never happend again

My tach would hank the car slightly and rpm jump from 3k-0k on highway and stops.

 

so i should buy a new distrubitor??? anyone know which one are good??? online???

i brought the car to NAPA today to let them take a look buy the guy there said he dun have the machine that check that and he said i got multi-misfire.......on the way back home the car die on me and hard to crank back up.... but finally got it back to my house already....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tatvietboiluvu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i should buy a new distrubitor??? anyone know which one are good??? online???

i brought the car to NAPA today to let them take a look buy the guy there said he dun have the machine that check that and he said i got multi-misfire.......on the way back home the car die on me and hard to crank back up.... but finally got it back to my house already....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a distributor king one that lasted 1 week and was a nightmare failure (would stop sparking when hot, after 10 minutes of driving. Would fix itself after an hour.)

They don't sell OEM distributors anymore for the 4th gen, just rebuild parts.

I'd start with a (honda) ignitor. They're expensive but a common failure point. Only do that after you've made sure the other connections are tight inside the dizzy to the ignitor (I have an extra ignitor because I didn't check. )