Blew My GSR ,Time For Rebuild and what block!?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 743
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From: Homestead, FL, Miami Dade County
Well I don't exactly know why my motor blew. Only thing of evidence I found was my Sparkplug in the 2nd Cylnder was about a quarter way melted when I removed them. Then I finally got to open the head today. I found 4,3, and 1 Pistons...but no sign of 2!!! I just saw the rod and the pin. Only thing I see wrong with the block is the sleeve on piston two has a couple of cracks but no acutal broken or large gaps. With this beind said. Can I revive this motor? I heard its about a 1,000 to get new sleeves put in. Im not in that budge range. So IF its too much someone answer me this question. WHAT BLOCK should I buy for ALL motor Performance (I want a block that will be faster then my GSR block.) If none of the block are better I will just find another GSR block. Also how do I know if the head is no good. Only on piston 2 section does the head have like a melted feeling. I dropped two maybe 3 valves. Is the head fixable ? What can I do to get it fixed ? Machine shop ftmfw?
My motor was in the same condition, 2 intake valves dropped, punched a hole through piston 1 and cracked the sleeve. The head looks bad to me, but when I took it to the machine shop, they said it was all cosmetic damage. They replaced the damaged valve seats w/ oversized seats and repaired the spark plug hole threads with a heli-coil or something. Then they smoothed out the combustion chamber faces and milled the head. It is good as new and I put over 15k miles on the head since the rebuilt. So take it to your machine shop, what may look really bad to you may not really be that bad to them, so go and see what they say. Also have them pressure test it. Your block will most likely need to be resleeved. If you can, get another GSR block and bolt your head to it.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 743
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From: Homestead, FL, Miami Dade County
Thanks for your share of experience. I will go ahead and take it to the machine shop tommorow to see what pricing im looking at. Also I wish there was an easy repair for the block but im already in search for a new one
To repair the damage to the head cost me about $150. 2 new valves and valve job, total work came out to around $350. If you're lucky, you may find a used head for around that price, but you should get a valve job or at least lap the valves.
Your cheapiest option ls/vtec (rebuilt) with rs machine pistons.
Short list of re-build items:
new rear main seal, oil pump, water pump, GE ls/vtec kit, acl bearings (if they give you the right clearance), and itr style pistons. Also have the block checked for flatness.
That will certainly outperform your stock gsr block.
If I were you, I would save up to re-sleeve for 84 mm and rebuild.
Short list of re-build items:
new rear main seal, oil pump, water pump, GE ls/vtec kit, acl bearings (if they give you the right clearance), and itr style pistons. Also have the block checked for flatness.
That will certainly outperform your stock gsr block.
If I were you, I would save up to re-sleeve for 84 mm and rebuild.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your cheapiest option ls/vtec (rebuilt) with rs machine pistons.
Short list of re-build items:
new rear main seal, oil pump, water pump, GE ls/vtec kit, acl bearings (if they give you the right clearance), and itr style pistons. Also have the block checked for flatness.
That will certainly outperform your stock gsr block.
If I were you, I would save up to re-sleeve for 84 mm and rebuild. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Or look around for a used block already sleeved and built. I seen one online a couple of days after I bought my spare block. GSR block, sleeved to 85mm, newly polished GSR crank, arp rod bolts, RS ITR pistons. New ACL bearings, new water pump, oil pump, timing belt, tensioner, gaskets, etc. Rebuilt by a liscenced shop, over $4k invested, selling for $1500
Short list of re-build items:
new rear main seal, oil pump, water pump, GE ls/vtec kit, acl bearings (if they give you the right clearance), and itr style pistons. Also have the block checked for flatness.
That will certainly outperform your stock gsr block.
If I were you, I would save up to re-sleeve for 84 mm and rebuild. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Or look around for a used block already sleeved and built. I seen one online a couple of days after I bought my spare block. GSR block, sleeved to 85mm, newly polished GSR crank, arp rod bolts, RS ITR pistons. New ACL bearings, new water pump, oil pump, timing belt, tensioner, gaskets, etc. Rebuilt by a liscenced shop, over $4k invested, selling for $1500
Right off the bat, the B20 block will give you more TQ than your gsr block. Plus, your aftermarket mods will typically give you more HP and TQ w/ the B20 block vs. the GSR cause the added displacement. Make sure you look into B20vtec builds and look at how the mod combinations differ than a typical 1.8L build.
I think the main difference between the B20 blocks is the CR. One is a bit higher than the other. If you're gonna do a complete rebuild with new pistons, I don't think it'll matter then. Just get whatever's cheaper. Someone correct me please if there's any other differeces.
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