I want to know everyones opinion on making a "proper" built 2.0L ITR Block.

I dont mean what cams to go with it or what head porter to use

What I do mean is the proper way to get the 2.0L+ displacement.

what crank compared to bore/stroke.. the safest way for a daily driver.

my stock block ITR is pushing 120k+ and when its time for a rebuild I want the bigger displacement for my heavy 4 door.. and I will need this car everyday.

Thanks.

 

You will need 85mm bore w/ stock crank and rods. Or 84mm bore with B20/LS crank and rods. You can get pretty close to a 1.9L with 82mm bore, B20/LS crank and rods.

 

i would try this

b20b/z block
85mm RS itr piston
ITR/GSR crank
ITR/GSR rods

pretty much a bigger displacement of a ITR block. I guess u can say 2.0L itr motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would try this

b20b/z block
85mm RS itr piston
ITR/GSR crank
ITR/GSR rods

pretty much a bigger displacement of a ITR block. I guess u can say 2.0L itr motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would do that but the problem is I live in california and cant have a truck engine (b20) in my car, its illegal and un-smoggable. / Thats why I need to use my ITR block.

 

Why do you want a 2.0L so bad? Your block can make great power on 81.5mm or 82mm bore. Do the B20/LS crank and rods like I told you and you'll be at around 1880CC 1.88 L w/ the 82mm overbore. The added stroke will help make more TQ which is good for your heavy car

Or you can fork out about a grand to get your block sleeved to 85mm and use your ITR crank and rods, RS Machine 85mm ITR pistons.

 

82x95

no sleeving ,able to retain precious B18C5 Block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want a 2.0L so bad? Your block can make great power on 81.5mm or 82mm bore. Do the B20/LS crank and rods like I told you and you'll be at around 1880CC 1.88 L w/ the 82mm overbore. The added stroke will help make more TQ which is good for your heavy car

Or you can fork out about a grand to get your block sleeved to 85mm and use your ITR crank and rods, RS Machine 85mm ITR pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you got me thinking now, seems like the best idea. thanks man!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">82x95

no sleeving ,able to retain precious B18C5 Block. </TD></TR></TABLE>

will I need to do any headwork to match the chambers to the 82MM bore?

Well I'd have you do my headwork anyways, when I do.

 

Its not a necessary, but you can.

 

What do you need to run the 95mm crank? Custom rods?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you need to run the 95mm crank? Custom rods? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Custom Piston

 

shorter pistons

 

If you swap out the crank to increase stroke, its not really an ITR motor anymore. If you are really going to do that, sell your ITR short block and buy an LS block to rebuild. No reason to change everything about the motor that makes is special when any B series block works just as well at that point.

If you want more displacement while keeping the good characteristics of the ITR motor, sleeve and bore it. It will have some nice effects on some of the dynamic characteristics, like un-shrouding the valves and giving you better (higher) compression with a lower dome.

Best of luck with your project.

 

my .02 cents is that your best bet is to sleeve it and bore to 85mm. hell, you will be happy with 84mm-84.5mm bore. keep your stock crank and rods. like top ramen said if you swap out the crank its not really a ITR motor anymore. and from what i witness from friends and hearing it from tuners, that putting a b20 crank in a b18 block will cause a lot of vibration issues that will lead to warping.
good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red Balut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and from what i witness from friends and hearing it from tuners, that putting a b20 crank in a b18 block will cause a lot of vibration issues that will lead to warping.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Curious as to what you witnessed that would make you say that. Especially when the B18 "LS" cranks are the same as the B20 cranks. Both PR4 stampings. Even if youre talking about the B18C/C5 cranks, thats just plain bad info.

 

Get it sleeved and overbore it to 85mm or 86mm. You should be able to rev it as high as it is now to

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red Balut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my .02 cents is that your best bet is to sleeve it and bore to 85mm. hell, you will be happy with 84mm-84.5mm bore. keep your stock crank and rods. like top ramen said if you swap out the crank its not really a ITR motor anymore. and from what i witness from friends and hearing it from tuners, that putting a b20 crank in a b18 block will cause a lot of vibration issues that will lead to warping.
good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What have you witnessed? Warping of what? Like CC said, a B20 crank and rods are the same as an LS. If you have the bottom end balanced a B20/LS crank in a ITR/GSR block will run just as smooth as having a GSR/ITR crank in a GSR/ITR block. I've got a B20/LS crank in my GSR block and rev to 8500 rpm daily, over 16k miles and it runs great, and 2 of my buddies have the same setup, one w/ over 30k miles the other over 50k miles. You can have a stock GSR/ITR crank installed in a GSR/ITR block but if you just throw on some pistons and don't balance the bottom end, there's a good chance you'll throw the rotataing assemble off balance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4dooritr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would do that but the problem is I live in california and cant have a truck engine (b20) in my car, its illegal and un-smoggable. / Thats why I need to use my ITR block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, that's not true. I also live in CA and I actually did my research before I swapped motors in my SI. As long as you retain your stock cylinder head and intake manifold you can use whatever the [freak] block you want with it. Don't believe me? Call B.A.R.

 

Here is what we do:

- Go Power Motorsports92mm Crank (www.go-pwr.com)
- Go Power MotorsportsRods
- 84mm Pistons

daily driver in LA traffic too !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Curious as to what you witnessed that would make you say that. Especially when the B18 "LS" cranks are the same as the B20 cranks. Both PR4 stampings. Even if youre talking about the B18C/C5 cranks, thats just plain bad info.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmmmm maybe they just had it bad? i had few friends did that set up, and they all ended up goin home with a sad face. a few tuners told them that the swapping a b20 crank in it will cause vibration on the sleeves. again i heard this from a few different tuners, one of them was Ichishima him self. since then i just told myself to stay away from that set up to avoid bs. not tryin to spread bad info, its just my opinion.

 

So then why did the state referee check for the correct block code such as b18c1 for my GSR? He said even ITR is illegal in a GSR?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red Balut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmmmmm maybe they just had it bad? i had few friends did that set up, and they all ended up goin home with a sad face/ a few tuners told them that the swapping a b20 crank in it will cause vibration on the sleeves. again i heard this from a few different tuners, one of them was Ichishima him self. since then i just told myself to stay away from that set up to avoid bs. not tryin to spread bad info, its just my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That can happen on any crank and block combination if the bottom end isn't balance properly.

 

im pretty sure they had it balance. but if they didnt then that was their problem. but back to topic, i would leave the crank alone and just sleeve it and bore to 85mm. be sure to balance the crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So then why did the state referee check for the correct block code such as b18c1 for my GSR? He said even ITR is illegal in a GSR?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is illegal to change your cylinder head and intake manifold on a CA car UNLESS you replace it with another motor (of your vehicle's year or newer), that was available in that car for that year. I'm pretty sure this even comes in to play with japaneese vehicles. (think eg6) Now from what I understand, you CAN change entire motors, provided you follow certain guidlines.
It can not be from a truck. (no b20 without having a stock vtec head)
You must use the intake manifold and ecu from the coresponding motor.
It must be the same year or newer than the car.
I think there are a few more stipulations, but you should call B.A.R. to make sure. Ask to talk to a tech, be nice, and explain exactly what you are doing. You would be surprised at what the laws really are, and how many loopholes are built into the system.


P.S. - if you don't change your head and IM you don't even need to get your car ref'd. It is considered a replacement motor. This would only apply to 99-00 SIs and GSR/ITRs, but still, it's a nice thing to know if you live in this craphole known as CA. Just once i'd like to see a 49 state legal part and have that 1 state be Utah or something....

 

The head and IM were both original and the ref. still checked the block to verify the block number. I asked him about using a B20 or LS block and he said that was illegal. He also said the ref will check to see if the block is the original block for that car, the year really didn't matter, but anyother block and that was illegal. I was able to pass inspection with a 94 GSR block in my 97 GSR. But I have heard about getting your car bar'ed with a B20, etc. through some other loophole.

 

we've been wanting to ref stock B20's in cen cal for a minute, but it's not happening. i know that you cant ref a ls vtech either, gotta be all stock ls stuff. from what i hear we have a problem reffing even usdm type r's. a jdm type r can be reffed, but it's gotta have a gsr HEAD and MANIFOLD. which is kinda cool guess, since your gettin more compression out of the motor. as far as stock gsr's, its just plug and play all day.

crazy all the stupid lil rules cali has.