New rear caliper sticking
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I adjusted the ebrake 6 times, turned the piston but it didn't seem like it was compressing. Anyone have any ideas before i blow this [freak]ing car up. It's a brand new caliper. I bled it three times repositioned the piston numerous times and it still rubbing
gravity bleed it, fill it up and open the bleeder , leave it open for a little bit , and check the rubber line , i had a similar problem and it turned out to be the rubber line .
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you grease the pins?</TD></TR></TABLE>
All 8 of them twice
bled every corner 2 times
adjusted the ebrake cable 6 times
All 8 of them twice
bled every corner 2 times
adjusted the ebrake cable 6 times
Sorry for the stupid question, but did you bleed it in the proper order? Did you do anything with the master cylinder? You don't have a twist in the brake hose, do you? Did you have your rotor resurfaced?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchling37 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry for the stupid question, but did you bleed it in the proper order? Did you do anything with the master cylinder? You don't have a twist in the brake hose, do you? Did you have your rotor resurfaced? </TD></TR></TABLE>
1 rear right
2 front left
3 rear left
4 front right
nothing was done to the master cylinder.
new braided brake lines
new rotors
new pads.
I can check the lines to see if i ran them so that there is no twist in them.
1 rear right
2 front left
3 rear left
4 front right
nothing was done to the master cylinder.
new braided brake lines
new rotors
new pads.
I can check the lines to see if i ran them so that there is no twist in them.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the caliper stick evenly as the wheel rotates or just in certain spots? How bad is this sticking, i.e are you dragging a wheel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
After some adjustments it only sticks in one spot
After some adjustments it only sticks in one spot
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hb420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the next step
Could this be affecting my rear brake? Should they be even?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
It looks like the ebrake cable is too tight on one side..
This could be your problem.
Try readjusting the ebrake cable.. most likely will fix your problem.
Could this be affecting my rear brake? Should they be even?

</TD></TR></TABLE>It looks like the ebrake cable is too tight on one side..
This could be your problem.
Try readjusting the ebrake cable.. most likely will fix your problem.
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Upon further inspection i took notice that the connection at the hard line and the braided line is leaking and it's completely tightened. Could i use teflon tape on the thread?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hb420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Upon further inspection i took notice that the connection at the hard line and the braided line is leaking and it's completely tightened. Could i use teflon tape on the thread?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do not use teflon tape. Check the flare.
Do not use teflon tape. Check the flare.
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Brakes are still giving me problems. 1.5 months and still haven't driven the car. I disconnected my ebrake cables and they aren't the problem. The only thing left to replace is the master cylinder and prop valve.
You need a dial indicator with a magnet mount. You reinstall the lug nuts with spacer washers and properly torque them. Runout is the difference between the minimum and maximum readings on the indicator. Think of it as rotor wobble. If you do have excessive runout (I cannot recall the spec offhand), remove the rotor and clean the hub face of rust, debris, etc.. After reinstalling the rotor, recheck the runout.
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