delete




Modified by WangstaCivic at 10:11 PM 4/27/2008

 

For gluing the mouldings on or gluing the holes shut???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For gluing the mouldings on or gluing the holes shut???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i would like to use epoxy to glue the hole shut

 

And then do bodywork and paint the doors again????? I would weld them shut myself, the epoxy will never hold up over time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And then do bodywork and paint the doors again????? I would weld them shut myself, the epoxy will never hold up over time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would weld them but i dont want to risk warping them and having to do more work

 

listenn to the man.

the last guy who i told that I wouldnt shave the moldings for him unless I weld them.. went out and filled the holes himself with something.

I said, fine.

I did the bodywork and painted the car (milano red - red is expensive as ****, also doesn't cover well,.. so u need a lot).

A month later, the holes are bubbling upward the surface.. wont be long (hot summer days) for it to extrude and start cracking the paint.

Other than that, it's a perfect ITR conversion with flawless paint.

such a shame.

Now, which is more work and $, my way or his way
Even if you are worried about warped metal due to welding, your moulding holes/area are not completely flush/straight. There's still filler laying/sanding involved no matter what.

I dont have a better picture, nor do i have of the finished car. You can tell, by the holes you still have to lay filler on top to get the panel straight.

[img]http://www.ness.shining-shadow.com/P1020360.JPG[/mg]


If you're not going to listen to the experienced, learn from experience.







Modified by nsone at 1:50 AM 4/24/2008

 

im not trying to fill the holes with some strange stuff i want to epoxy glue a piece of metal to the other side of the molding holes and my question is will it last over time in weather that wont reach over 105F

can you make your pic smaller or just delete it thanks.

 

If youre asking "can you"?

yes.

will it hold?

yes

for how long?

don't know.


To correctly fill holes/adhere metal to metal: Weld.


Good luck with that.

 

thanks for your advice but is there anybody with experience with epoxy or know about the stuff?

 

I have a great deal of experience with epoxy, weld the holes shut.

 

Or get panel bond and use that...it will hold up much better and properly adhere to the base metals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or get panel bond and use that...it will hold up much better and properly adhere to the base metals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well if you know of a company that sell panel bond for a reasonable price let me know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a great deal of experience with epoxy, weld the holes shut.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have great deal of experience of poor prep work also?

why not just drop 2 lbs of bondo there? both will be ticking bomb

 

What??? I do have some experience with fixing poor prep work. I don't quite get what you are saying, but the right way to do it is weld the holes up, aside from that panel bonding is the other option. Either way, if done right there should be no need for 2lbs of bondo.

 

i used JB Weld on mine.. looks A OK.. with a 1 inch by 1 inch piece of sheetmetal ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WangstaCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well if you know of a company that sell panel bond for a reasonable price let me know</TD></TR></TABLE>

why is it that some people fail to realize that cheaping out on stuff like this only results in them spending more money in the end

If your too broke to do your project the right way dont cheap out and hack it, youre only going to smack yourself later

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_teg04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is it that some people fail to realize that cheaping out on stuff like this only results in them spending more money in the end
If your too broke to do your project the right way dont cheap out and hack it, youre only going to smack yourself later</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would you say i was cheaping out? i mean all epoxy's do the same job right? just one is stronger than the other but how strong do you need something when its only purpose is backing for the bondo? and also the epoxy is made by the well known company Permatex / Devcon. i also return the original i was going to use and pick up this one

http://www.permatex.com/produc...y.htm



says "eliminates the need for welding" so im happy with this one but thanks guys for trying to help

 

WHy even ask if you won't take the advice given...sorry but that had to be said.

NO, all epoxies do not do the same job, there are many many different epoxies for many many different things.

Some bond well to metals, glass, plastics, woods, other epoxies..not all epoxies are the same at all. Some get partial cure in 24 hours som get full cure in the same time. and As a backer for bondo, well neight one has a great smount of strength by itself, they are designed to be strong in conjunction with a frim substrate.

Epoxy is the wrong way to do this, yes it might last a while, heck it might last as long as you have the car, but it is the wrong way to do this modification.

 

if you didnt read i said

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WangstaCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i also return the original i was going to use and pick up this one says "eliminates the need for welding" so im happy with this one but thanks guys for trying to help</TD></TR></TABLE>


how are you going to say all epoxies dont do the same job? what are epoxies made to do BOND! yes they make diffrent epoxies for diffrent material but in the end the purpose is to bond things together!!! do you even know what you were saying?

give me some good hard fact to back up your explination for saying epoxy is not the way to do this. and again this is the epoxy i will be using

http://www.permatex.com/produc...y.htm

 

Yes I do realise what I am say, and epoxy is not solely used for bonding. They are also used for surface finishing, filling, and epoxy resins are used in the production of aerospace grade carbon fiber parts. There are different epoxies designed for each job, therefore my statement was correct.

And the reson for saying that it is not the right way to do it. Well one big reason woul be the number of dissimilar materials all in contact with eachother, the first problem would be the different bond strengths between each material to the next material. How well does epoxy bond metal to metal, very well about this you are 100 percent correct, if you use the right epoxy as an adhesvie it will bond great to metal. But after that, how well will the body filler adhere to the epoxy substrate. And will the epoxy hold up to the different resins and solvents that are in the bodyfiller, or will they react to eachother? And beyond that what about the expansion rates of the metal, epoxy and bodyfiller? When you weld the metal together, the expansion rates of the metal surrounding the patch and the patch should be the same ( assuming the same gauge metal and consistant welds ) but when you use an adhesive to bond the metal,s you also have to factor in the rate of expansion and contraction of that adhesive system in the overall picture. Becase the surrounding metal and patch metal are not actually connected, but in fact rely on the epoxy to bond them, they are at the whim of the epoxies expansion rates which could be considerably more or less than the metal and or body filler, not to mention primers paints clears.........

Panel bond is designed specifically for this purpose, to bond metal in a autobody environment, therefore is has excellent bond characteristics to the materials, and is both stable with bodyfillers and paints....plus if applied correctly does not expand, flex or contract beyond acceplatble limits.

I am not trying to be dick, or any of the sort, but have a good 12 years experience in custom autobody, paint, and autobody fabrication, and would be happy to show you any number of projects I have done to back this up. I am just trying to answer your question in a way that will allow you to make an educated desicion and do the job as well as you can so it lasts, and is done right.

If you do not like my opinion that is fine, as it is only that, my opinion. But do please realise that I am not a some 12 year old keyboard comando, and not here just to be a dick. I have made many mistakes over the years, and done tonnes of research in order not to make the same mistakes over, and I am trying to guide you away from making what I beleive to be a mistake.


I hope whatever path you choose works out for you, and hope it turns out well.

 

well you may have alot of experience but if you read what they have on their website

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fills gaps and will not shrink. When cured, can be drilled, sanded, threaded or filed. Resistant to water and solvents. Temperature range -60°F to 300°F (-51°C to 149°C). Permanent strength up to 4500 PSI. Ideal for complex, multi-piece assemblies. Bonds rigid materials including aluminum, brass, chrome, copper, iron, stainless steel, steel. Use to seal welded seams, fills metal cracks, mount metal components.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and this is also in their automotive section so it is made to use on cars and if you still dont believe this is not the right way to do it why dont you call permatex and tell them that they should be selling this stuff for automotive.

 

OK you qouted off the package, or website. So if they say its the right thing then it must be. It does not say anywhere that it is to be used in bodywork, does not say that it is compatible with atomotive finishes, and does not say wether it will contract or expand and at what rate, and for that matter is the 4500psi strength tensile, compression, or shear, not that that would greatly matter in your application. Some companies sell fiberglass and matt to do bodywork repairs and even give instructions on how to fix a metal panel with them, it is the wrong way, but sompanies still sell it for that.

I won't argue with you anymore, you aksed a question which you had no intention of wanting to hear the answer to, if you want to do it your way fine do it your way, it's your car not mine, and like I said earlier I hope it works out well for you.

 

well im pretty sure it will be compatible with automotive finishes since it doesnt shrink and hopefully doesnt expand.

i dont even know why you kept writing in this thread when i put delete ontop and i wrote

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WangstaCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but thanks guys for trying to help</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WangstaCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont even know why you kept writing in this thread when i put delete </TD></TR></TABLE>

bc youre a newb trying to up your post count

 

me???? yes im a noob but i could really care less about my post count.