Dyno'ed my car on Saturday, Dyno_Run002 is last month with a Greddy Evo II and a DCRH and a K&N Drop in filter Run005 has added the typhoon, not sure why the gap is there but I have contacted the shop, as I remember at the shop the gap wasn't there, not sure if the file got damaged or what, but I will provide updates when I get them. Run002 the conditions where 55 degrees F and 18% humidity, Run005 conditions were 74 degrees and 13% humidity.

There was a loss of about 7 horsepower down low, but a gain of about 14 horse power up top, and a peak power gain of 9 horsepower, with 002 being 186.23 at 7600RPM and 005 being 195.79 at 8100RPM.

As far as torque goes, there was a loss of 9 ft/lbs down low but a gain of 8 ft/lbs up top, I am unsure of peak torque for sure because of the gap throwing things off..


Those are not quite the numbers I remeber while I was at the shop, and the gap wasn't there, I am contacting the shop to send me the graph, I am thinking the DRF is corrupt or something....

This the numbers I remember, but I don't remember that torque jump though


here are the vids(sorry for poor quality, it was from my Moto Z9):

 

here is my air-fuel..... really wish i could tune

 

Good info, nice to see the K&N dynoed
I've got the discontinued v1 in the garage. I took it off becuase my butt dyno was feeling the loss down low like your real dyno shows. I just drive my car to work so the loss of midrange wasn't worth the gain up top.

I would be itching for the reflash if I was you (so close to 200)

 

Good god.. my favorite intake is garbage :S

Glad I didn't pull the trigger on this one. The SI is already severely lacking power down low as it is, I couldn't imagine losing another 10% of my HP to gains some up top.

You lose power all the way till 6200ish RPMs, then it's about even with the stock intake, and then it makes a bit of power from 7200 rpms +. Not worth it at all imo. I already hate the fact that the SI only makes usable power so late in the RPM range, I can't imagine further restricting it.

 

I did notice the loss down low, but it's not enough for me to ditch the intake, especially after dropping $235 on it... The sound is still amazing and the gain up top is nice... I think if we had some tuning, this intake would do a lot better.

And IT guy, yea, I am deffinately itching for the reflash, come that "stimulus package" from the government, I am going to get it....

in the mean time i might do some "little" things like the NST pulleys, P2R tb spacer, IMG. etc.

 

glad to see the K&N dynoed. i have the v1 as well but i modified mine and the loss down low dosnt feel as bad but the up top still feels a lil peppier. all the gaskets IMO and the TB spacer arnt worth it. the pullies might be but for the money the gaskets arent worth the time or money.

 

Yea, it kinda depends on what the reflash does for me... I'd really like to get over 200...

 

in case you didn't realize, the reason why you lost power is because of the lean afr. The intake is messing with your maf and I suggest you remove it before you burn your valves if you already haven't. Those afr is way tooo lean.

that's why I wouldn't mess with the intake on cars using maf sensors. The maf sensors are calibrated with the stock intake and if the aftermarket companies don't mimic the airflow through the maf the same way as stock, the car runs like ****

 

jewjewbean, maybe I'm reading the A/F ratio wrong on the graphs but it looks like it was lean without the intake on Run_002 but on Run_005 with the intake the ratio seems to have improved. They were probably using a tailpipe sniffer style wideband and not the stock sensor to measure the ratio so accuracy may be comprimised. Also the ambient temp was 20 degrees lower on Run_002 vs Run_005 which probably had some effect on the A/F ratio. Maybe the OP can confirm how they measured and give us some insight.


I'm not disagreeing with you about the MAF sensor. In fact that's why I'm using a BPi flow stack with the stock intake arm and MAF housing cut out of the airbox.

 

It was measured with the tailpipe sniffer both times, It is definitely leaner with the intake, blue line is with out, green is with it.

 

oops. I had the runs mixed up

Did you reset the computer after you changed the intake?

 

Yes I did, and I have had it installed for a few weeks....

 

"For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air/fuel mixture is approximately 14.7 times the mass of air to fuel. Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture, any more than 14.7 to 1 is a lean mixture "


Wouldn't this mean that the car was rich? I didn't see any lines above 14.7 except after the run ended.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ing/index.html &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The air/fuel ratio in a normally aspirated street car comes in around 13.5 to 14.7:1..</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ i know its for a CRX, but shouldn't it be about the same....

I'm confused...

 

14.7:1 is the stochiometric (not rich, not lean, dead on) a/f ratio for burning gasoline (14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline)

13.5:1 is rich (13.5 parts air to 1 part gasoline). A little rich isn't 'bad' which is why HondaTuning gave the range it did in that article.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">14.7:1 is the stochiometric (not rich, not lean, dead on) a/f ratio for burning gasoline (14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline)

13.5:1 is rich (13.5 parts air to 1 part gasoline). A little rich isn't 'bad' which is why HondaTuning gave the range it did in that article.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am confused by jewjew bean saying i am running dangerously lean and the highest I got was 14.52 which is still in their range...

 

if your car starts to run to rich or too lean the CEL will come on. Mine came on and i fixed my intkae and now its all good. you should be fine when the CEL comes on take a look at it and see what you can do.

 

I haven't had a CEL on and the intake has probably been on almost a month now...

 

if you are running stoich at WOT its probaly not the best thing for the motor considering the Z3's compression ratio.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtySOHC’s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are running stoich at WOT its probaly not the best thing for the motor considering the Z3's compression ratio.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hadn't seen you on for awhile now

and your statement is much more to the point and makes so much more sense than this one:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jewjew bean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in case you didn't realize, the reason why you lost power is because of the lean afr. The intake is messing with your maf and I suggest you remove it before you burn your valves if you already haven't. Those afr is way tooo lean.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hadn't seen you on for awhile now

and your statement is much more to the point and makes so much more sense than this one:

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yah man ever since I got back from Kuwait I've been laying low. I'm always on but I don't post much. I'll probably be active again after the summer cause I'll be back in the middle east again and HT keeps me entertained when I'm out there.

 

Hmm... I have the V1 on my sedan. I haven't noticed any loss in power... but you guys are saying I'm going to have CEL problems?

Been running with it for almost a year now. And how would one "fix" their intake should the CEL come on?


Modified by djarch at 7:42 PM 4/23/2008

 

reflash

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by organiz3d_chaos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am confused by jewjew bean saying i am running dangerously lean and the highest I got was 14.52 which is still in their range...</TD></TR></TABLE>

stoich or 14.7:1 is the optimum afr for normal driving. under WOT you'd want to be closer to 13:1.

14.52 under is WOT is lean. do a search on all motor cars that have been dyno'ed/tuned. generally, you'll see they are all around 13:1.

 

Ouch, I think I'll stick with an AEM/Injen CAI.