Hey guys,

I am working right now to peice together my oil cooler system, and am just unsure which core to go with. I just don't want to choose one that has known problems or causes an excess amount of pressure drop.

I have about 10x6" to work with.

I'll be using the Mocal adapter plate, along with 10an lines.

Thanks!
Bryson

 

Anything by Setrab is a good bet, and they're offered in a bunch of sizes. Check on eBay for good deals (you'd be surprised how cheap they can be found). Just make sure to get the outlet sizing right.

 

I like Earls.

I bought a true-cool or something like that because it was cheap. Bad idea, i had a leak that i thought was fittings but it was the actual cooler that was leaking, and would blow oil up and onto the fittings. It SUCKED!!!

So i bought an earls and really like it, plus it saved me a few bucks because i didn't have to purchase AN adapter fittings, as the Earls is ready to accept the AN fittings.


I also had a LOT of trouble with the summit racing AN fittings, summit kicked *** though and replaced all the summit fittings with Russels (what i wanted) for free.

 

I run a 24 row Setrab with -10AN lines. No oil pressure problems whatsoever. The oil cooler itself is also ducted so that any air that hits it goes through it to keep oil temperatures as low as possible. Remember, air always finds the easiest way to escape which is why I had mine ducted.

 

I've got a Tru Cool and really like it. You can't beat the price.

http://bakerprecision.com/trucool.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got a Tru Cool and really like it. You can't beat the price.

http://bakerprecision.com/trucool.htm </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good price! does it come with lines and hardware?

 

No. Its a roll your own kinda thing.

 

dose the morcal adapter have a spot for your oil pressure sensor and oil temp?
i dont want to run my greddy adapter and the morcal on top of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dose the morcal adapter have a spot for your oil pressure sensor and oil temp?
i dont want to run my greddy adapter and the morcal on top of it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it doesn't. I had to run a seperate sandwich adapter for guages and turbo oil feed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dose the morcal adapter have a spot for your oil pressure sensor and oil temp?
i dont want to run my greddy adapter and the morcal on top of it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll probubly just drill and tap a hole for a temp sender in the mocal unit. I am running a pressure sender off my oil feed line taken from the stock location on the block.

 

I'm running a Setrab. Nice piece.

 

how much difference can you typicallly see with oil cooler?

 

So how can I put a kit together myself? Where do I get the hardware and lines from?

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrXclusivE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how can I put a kit together myself? Where do I get the hardware and lines from?

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can get all the hose and lines from Summit Racing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much difference can you typicallly see with oil cooler?
</TD></TR></TABLE> on a hot day on track i see 230*F where others w/o coolers (with similar set-ups) see ~300*F

 

What do you guys think about the B&M super cooler cores?

I just don't understand why some of these cooler cores are more expensive than a much larger TIG welded aluminum radiator. freakin rediculous.

 

My temperatures were reaching 275+ with a built B series motor. After putting on the cooler I got it down to the 240 range (usually maxing around 250). This is 95 ambient temperature here in FL. Remember that not only does a cooler help keep oil cool it also increases your capacity which is a good thing to take the oil longer to heat up while on track. I believe my system is around 6.0 qts when i change my oil. This is also with a Moroso RR aluminum pan.

 

i have the oem cooler temps started to hit 250 after 5 very hard laps lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm running a Setrab. Nice piece.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/...4.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/...9.jpg
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That Setrab one is a really nice piece!

6ghatch, Can you get me the part numbers to piece together that kit you got there?
Core #
Fittings #
Hose #
Sandwich plate #

What is the size(mm) and thread pattern of the Bseries sandwhich plates? 22x1.50?

I'd really appreciate the help.




Modified by 1200 Hobos at 7:49 PM 4/22/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can get all the hose and lines from Summit Racing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Their lines are rubber tube kinda thing, would you trust that with hot oil?




http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

 

here is the braided line
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

you can run other stuff but that is the cheapest. Messure out how much you need and buy just a little more.

and here are all the fittings. Buy what you think you will need. I bought 2 45s and two 90s.

If you guys search there is a thread were all the parts are listed out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1200 Hobos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That Setrab one is a really nice piece!

6ghatch, Can you get me the part numbers to piece together that kit you got there?
Core #
Fittings #
Hose #
Sandwich plate #

What is the size(mm) and thread pattern of the Bseries sandwhich plates? 22x1.50?

I'd really appreciate the help.




Modified by 1200 Hobos at 7:49 PM 4/22/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ran all Earl's lines and fittings from Summit Racing.
4-90 degree -10an fittings EAR-AT809110ERL
2-45 degree -10an fittings EAR-AT804610ERL
6 foot of -10an PRO-LITE 350 HOSE EAR-350610ERL

The setrab 25 row cooler I got from True Choice. http://www.truechoice.com/prod...20625
The remote filter adapter I got from e-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

 

You might have to be a little more DIY-savvy but hydraulic lines are more than strong enough to deal with the pressures and temperatures you'll be seeing, and tend to be cheaper than braided steel lines. They also won't chew through anything they touch (though at the some time, they can be worn through if touching something sharp). To do that, you'd need to know lengths, fitting sizes, tubing diameter, and fitting angles (90, 45, etc.) as well as their orientation (45's facing the same direction, opposite direction, so on). You would need to go to a hydraulic line shop to have them made, as there are special tools required to piece them together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrXclusivE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Their lines are rubber tube kinda thing, would you trust that with hot oil?




http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you don't want to use steel braid you can use Aeroquip socketless racing hose http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/prodinfo.html ....it said socketless but I used clamps on everything lol

Here is more links where you can buy cooler stuff
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civicdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't want to use steel braid you can use Aeroquip socketless racing hose http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/prodinfo.html</TD></TR></TABLE>
That stuff is the way to go. Its cheaper, lighter and easier to keep clean than steel braided line. More than strong enough for engine oil temps and pressures. The fittings are MUCH stronger than the brass crap above, require no special tools and do NOT need (or even benefit from) hose clamps. There's almost no down side unless you simply MUST have the steel braided bling. Most race plumbing manufactures like Earls, Goodridge & XRP have similar products. They're all good.

I use the nickel finish fittings from XRP (http://www.xrp.com) 'cause I think they look neat and I'm sick of blue and red.

Do it once. Do it right. Friends don't let friends buy oil line fittings from Home Depot.