which are better

 

They are both the same performance wise. Yes the Aftermarket are a bit lighter, nothing you will notice. Yes Some of them have multiple swaybar endlink mounting points, thats probably the only thing that is better performance wise. Other than that, you decide where you want to spend that money.

 

You forgot that aftermarket ones are also for "show."

 

Best? OEM.

 

best with out a doubt would be OEM, aftermarkets are just for bling. I've heard too many bushings go bad on aftermarket LCA's. The only rep. aftermarket LCA that i'd trust is sk2's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmoua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best with out a doubt would be OEM, aftermarkets are just for bling. I've heard too many bushings go bad on aftermarket LCA's. The only rep. aftermarket LCA that i'd trust is sk2's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not always true my friend some do have differences in length which would increase +camber. And as for bushings tearing... well when you go to install them people usually have the car jacked up right? well your supposed to tighten them with weight on the suspension. not while the car is jacked up. remember suspension travels up and down so if they tightened up while the car is jacked up when you go to drop it your already putting all that downward tension on the bushing. when you tighten it while the car is on the ground there is no tension on the bushing at all other than when the car is moving. So i say aftermarket with shorter lenght so when its dropped you dont have to adjust the upper arm so much to get the right camber

 

How about this for reputation....

Function7 recently showed me some photos from a customer which crashed doing ~70 mph. He had swerved to miss a car and ended up loosing control and slammed into a concrete drain sideways. He had a set of Function7 LCAs on the car, both of which survived the wreck. The suspension was torn from the car, which could be expected at those speeds and that kind of obstacle. Here are some pictures from Function7's site dipicting the damage to the LCA.

On the left you will see the damaged LCA, the right a new LCA for comparison.


Here is a photo from the top, the top is the damaged LCA, the bottom the new.


You can see how the LCA only slightly deformed, and did not crack or break like many have said an aluminum LCA would in a situation like this.

Ohh, yeah, and Function7 sent the guy a new pair of LCAs, too.

 

Rolling on func 7's is better than getting flashed.

OEM is just as functional, but I wouldn't consider it "better"

 

I bought the S2's when I replaced my stock suspension with something for the track. The only reason I bought them was my stockers had seized around all the bolts and I broke off all the heads.....

I really like them. They have adjustable points for sways, beefy bushings and look good too....

 

I gotta support on function 7. Trustworthy and BLING status

 

mmm fresh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mmm fresh.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would say f7's is the way to go...

mmm more freshness here...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaboostin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not always true my friend some do have differences in length which would increase +camber. And as for bushings tearing... well when you go to install them people usually have the car jacked up right? well your supposed to tighten them with weight on the suspension. not while the car is jacked up. remember suspension travels up and down so if they tightened up while the car is jacked up when you go to drop it your already putting all that downward tension on the bushing. when you tighten it while the car is on the ground there is no tension on the bushing at all other than when the car is moving. So i say aftermarket with shorter lenght so when its dropped you dont have to adjust the upper arm so much to get the right camber</TD></TR></TABLE>

so if your a average joe with just a jack how would you tighten the bolts holding a lca or none the less anything else under the car?

OEM FTW

 

you have to use ramps or jack up the car by the lca closest to the wheel then tighten it

 

im rockin the function 7's and love em

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmoua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so if your a average joe with just a jack how would you tighten the bolts holding a lca or none the less anything else under the car?

OEM FTW </TD></TR></TABLE>

With the rear of the car up on jack stands you jack the car up from the lca until the car comes up off the jack stand and the suspension is compressed. Then you tighten the lca bolts fully. Repeat same process on the other side of car.

 

thanks

 

im rolling in a 94 cx, and wanna add the asr/type r sway bar package so....

what oem control arms should i use since my oems do not have the mounthing holes.. i was going to buy some after markets until reading this thread...

 

^integra arms would would work for you. 94+