Boost gauge w/ CTSC kit (aftercooled)
So I finished my electric boost gauge install. Something just doesn't seem right though. At WOT the most I have seen is 3.7 psi of boost. I've got a 7 psi pulley installed.
I checked, re-checked and checked again all of my vacuum routing for the supercharger kit. Everything is connected as it should be per the Comptech instructions.
I used a vacuum T and shared the vacuum source for my gauge with the FPR. Is this wrong? Should I not be using that? Typically on a previously turbocharged car, I used my waste gate for the source for my gauge.
Am I missing something? Did I possibly get a defective gauge? It is a digital gauge from Summit Racing.
Let me know what you other supercharged guys have done and if you see the full boost pressure and at what rpm.
I checked, re-checked and checked again all of my vacuum routing for the supercharger kit. Everything is connected as it should be per the Comptech instructions.
I used a vacuum T and shared the vacuum source for my gauge with the FPR. Is this wrong? Should I not be using that? Typically on a previously turbocharged car, I used my waste gate for the source for my gauge.
Am I missing something? Did I possibly get a defective gauge? It is a digital gauge from Summit Racing.
Let me know what you other supercharged guys have done and if you see the full boost pressure and at what rpm.
Just some quick photos...was out at an auto x all day...
yes I know the hood is popped...

new Veilside spoiler. I just set it on for the photo.

engine bay...

will get back to the vacuum lines in just a minute...
yes I know the hood is popped...

new Veilside spoiler. I just set it on for the photo.

engine bay...

will get back to the vacuum lines in just a minute...
ok, let's see if this makes any sense...
in the line going from the top side above the fuel rail down to the vacuum air tank, there is the check valve in there and it has the longer side going down, towards the tank.
in the line going from the top side above the fuel rail down to the vacuum air tank, there is the check valve in there and it has the longer side going down, towards the tank.
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so the rest of my routing looks correct?
What about the bypass valve? Is is possible mine is not shutting properly and allowing boost to recycle back into the blower instead of getting to my engine?
What about the bypass valve? Is is possible mine is not shutting properly and allowing boost to recycle back into the blower instead of getting to my engine?
Honestly I'm not too sure, I've never installed a supercharger on the S.
With the turbo I only wire up a couple vacuums hoses. I've eliminated the secondary air pump. ;
With the turbo I only wire up a couple vacuums hoses. I've eliminated the secondary air pump. ;
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuzukaBlueAP2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the rest of my routing looks correct?
What about the bypass valve? Is is possible mine is not shutting properly and allowing boost to recycle back into the blower instead of getting to my engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The routing looks correct. I ran a boost guage T'd into the vacuum line to the FPR and it boosted to .5 bar (Around 7 lbs) with my 7lb pulley. That could definitely be a possibility that your bypass valve is not closing all the way. You also might want to check that your belt is tight and not slipping, There could also be a possibility of another boost leak, maybe around the couplers? Or is also could be the guage. If you can try and find a mechanical boost guage from a friend to try out, that also might narrow down your problem. All those are pretty good places to start.
What about the bypass valve? Is is possible mine is not shutting properly and allowing boost to recycle back into the blower instead of getting to my engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The routing looks correct. I ran a boost guage T'd into the vacuum line to the FPR and it boosted to .5 bar (Around 7 lbs) with my 7lb pulley. That could definitely be a possibility that your bypass valve is not closing all the way. You also might want to check that your belt is tight and not slipping, There could also be a possibility of another boost leak, maybe around the couplers? Or is also could be the guage. If you can try and find a mechanical boost guage from a friend to try out, that also might narrow down your problem. All those are pretty good places to start.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you get full boost right before Vtec? I was in a supercharged one and it get full boost around that area with a 7 pound pulley.</TD></TR></TABLE>
UM, Vortech and Comptech are Centrifical meaning they make peak boost at peak RPM. Its not going to be making full boost right before VTEC
UM, Vortech and Comptech are Centrifical meaning they make peak boost at peak RPM. Its not going to be making full boost right before VTEC
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by papa5murf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly I'm not too sure, I've never installed a supercharger on the S.
With the turbo I only wire up a couple vacuums hoses. I've eliminated the secondary air pump. ;</TD></TR></TABLE>
This was my first supercharger install as well. And same as you, I have turbo install experience from my old Acura. You must have an AEM EMS, no? Otherwise you'd have the silly CEL for the secondary air pump.
Here is my checklist:
1 - remove and reroute vacuum lines according to Comptech install instructions to avoid any possibility of them being incorrect now.
2 - Get a manual boost gauge and T it to the same spot I had the electron one to and compare boost readings.
3 - Try to determine if bypass valve is working correctly. Maybe hook it up to an air compressor?
4 - Ensure all couplers are sealed. (actually already did once)
5 - Check SC belt (again, already did). When I twist the belt at its longest point I can turn it approx. 45-50 degrees max.
6 - Double check electrical connections to electronic boost gauge.
With the turbo I only wire up a couple vacuums hoses. I've eliminated the secondary air pump. ;</TD></TR></TABLE>
This was my first supercharger install as well. And same as you, I have turbo install experience from my old Acura. You must have an AEM EMS, no? Otherwise you'd have the silly CEL for the secondary air pump.
Here is my checklist:
1 - remove and reroute vacuum lines according to Comptech install instructions to avoid any possibility of them being incorrect now.
2 - Get a manual boost gauge and T it to the same spot I had the electron one to and compare boost readings.
3 - Try to determine if bypass valve is working correctly. Maybe hook it up to an air compressor?
4 - Ensure all couplers are sealed. (actually already did once)
5 - Check SC belt (again, already did). When I twist the belt at its longest point I can turn it approx. 45-50 degrees max.
6 - Double check electrical connections to electronic boost gauge.
I'm running a Hondata Kpro now. There's an option to shut off certain CEL's and the secondary air pump is one of them. I can also shut off all of them if I want.
Assuming all the wiring of the hoses is correct (without the boost gauge). So that is not the issue.
Where do you have the boost gauge connecting to/reading from?
Assuming all the wiring of the hoses is correct (without the boost gauge). So that is not the issue.
Where do you have the boost gauge connecting to/reading from?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by papa5murf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where do you have the boost gauge connecting to/reading from? </TD></TR></TABLE>
It was T'ed in to the same port on my intake manifold that my fuel pressure regulator was connected to.
It was T'ed in to the same port on my intake manifold that my fuel pressure regulator was connected to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuzukaBlueAP2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3 - Try to determine if bypass valve is working correctly. Maybe hook it up to an air compressor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could just pull off the elbow from the supercharger to the airbox. At idle you should feel air moving through the bypass valve but instantly shuts when the throttle is opened. I wouldn't know the best way to check and see if it is leaking at say over 3 lbs, though.
3 - Try to determine if bypass valve is working correctly. Maybe hook it up to an air compressor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could just pull off the elbow from the supercharger to the airbox. At idle you should feel air moving through the bypass valve but instantly shuts when the throttle is opened. I wouldn't know the best way to check and see if it is leaking at say over 3 lbs, though.
Ok, after much troubleshooting I have been able to determine that my bypass valve is working fine.
I put a mechanical boost gauge in th same spot I T'd the electric one in and was able to see 6-7 psi of boost. So, now I have to figure out if it is the actual gauge or the electronic map sensor/sending unit that is malfunctioning.
Time to call Summit tomorrow.
I put a mechanical boost gauge in th same spot I T'd the electric one in and was able to see 6-7 psi of boost. So, now I have to figure out if it is the actual gauge or the electronic map sensor/sending unit that is malfunctioning.
Time to call Summit tomorrow.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuzukaBlueAP2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, after much troubleshooting I have been able to determine that my bypass valve is working fine.
I put a mechanical boost gauge in th same spot I T'd the electric one in and was able to see 6-7 psi of boost. So, now I have to figure out if it is the actual gauge or the electronic map sensor/sending unit that is malfunctioning.
Time to call Summit tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How is the sending unit wired in? Is it tapped into the MAP signal? If so, I know exactly what your problem is... With the Comptech Kit, remember the ESM that you had to wire in? It's a voltage clamp that hides boost from the ECU. I had an OBDII scanner and looked at the map reading and it was showing 2lbs of boost, I checked with a mechanical boost guage, and it was at 5.5lbs with the stock pulley.
I put a mechanical boost gauge in th same spot I T'd the electric one in and was able to see 6-7 psi of boost. So, now I have to figure out if it is the actual gauge or the electronic map sensor/sending unit that is malfunctioning.
Time to call Summit tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>How is the sending unit wired in? Is it tapped into the MAP signal? If so, I know exactly what your problem is... With the Comptech Kit, remember the ESM that you had to wire in? It's a voltage clamp that hides boost from the ECU. I had an OBDII scanner and looked at the map reading and it was showing 2lbs of boost, I checked with a mechanical boost guage, and it was at 5.5lbs with the stock pulley.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaKyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you get full boost right before Vtec? I was in a supercharged one and it get full boost around that area with a 7 pound pulley.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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right.
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right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricepicker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How is the sending unit wired in? Is it tapped into the MAP signal? If so, I know exactly what your problem is... With the Comptech Kit, remember the ESM that you had to wire in? It's a voltage clamp that hides boost from the ECU. I had an OBDII scanner and looked at the map reading and it was showing 2lbs of boost, I checked with a mechanical boost guage, and it was at 5.5lbs with the stock pulley.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm...it's funny you mention that. The gauge and its sending unit don't tap into the OE MAP sensor wiring. I just supply 12v+, a ground, an illumination source and then there is a signal wire on the gauges MAP sensor that goes up to the gauge. The gauges MAP sensor has a nipple on it and still gets a vacuum line run to it.
I did a little test with it though. I blew into the vacuum line going into that sending unit and produced only 0.9 psi on the gauge.
On the mechanical gauge I purchased I did the same thing and produced 2.0 psi.
Getting ready to make a phone call to Summit...
How is the sending unit wired in? Is it tapped into the MAP signal? If so, I know exactly what your problem is... With the Comptech Kit, remember the ESM that you had to wire in? It's a voltage clamp that hides boost from the ECU. I had an OBDII scanner and looked at the map reading and it was showing 2lbs of boost, I checked with a mechanical boost guage, and it was at 5.5lbs with the stock pulley.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm...it's funny you mention that. The gauge and its sending unit don't tap into the OE MAP sensor wiring. I just supply 12v+, a ground, an illumination source and then there is a signal wire on the gauges MAP sensor that goes up to the gauge. The gauges MAP sensor has a nipple on it and still gets a vacuum line run to it.
I did a little test with it though. I blew into the vacuum line going into that sending unit and produced only 0.9 psi on the gauge.
On the mechanical gauge I purchased I did the same thing and produced 2.0 psi.
Getting ready to make a phone call to Summit...



